How to make a wooden table with your own hands?

The one that is most memorable is the poorly designed dining table. One that is too low or too high, one that does not have enough legroom underneath, one that has too little space. To help you design a table that will be remembered only for its attractive appearance, we will provide basic standards here.

TABLE HEIGHT.

Distance from the floor to the top surface of the lid. Usually it is 68–76 cm.

SPACE ABOVE LEGS

. The distance from the floor to the bottom edge of the drawer is the vertical space for the legs. The minimum distance is 60 cm.

KNEEL ROOM

. The distance from the edge of the table to the leg is the space for your knees when the chair is pulled up to the table. The minimum distance is from 36 to 40 cm, the optimal distance is 36–46 cm.

SPACE ABOVE HIPS

. The distance from the seat to the lower edge of the drawer is the vertical space for the hips when a person sits on this chair, pushed towards the table. Minimum – 15 cm.

ELBOW ROOM

. Side space on the table for each person sitting. The minimum is 60 cm, but 75 cm is much better.

HAND DEPTH

. Front space on the table for each person seated. Less than 30 cm will not be enough, and more than 45 cm will be too much.

SPACE FOR A CHAIR

. The distance from the edge of the tabletop to the wall is sufficient to move the chair away when getting up from the table. Architects claim that a minimum of 90 cm is needed, and 110 cm would be the best option.

Table with king belt

When you hear the word "table", don't you think of a flat panel with four legs? Don't you think of just such a table as the one pictured here? Yes, this design is the most original of the original ones. In the simplest version, the table - a typical design - consists of only three types of parts: legs, drawers and a lid (table top). The legs and tsar belt form a strong, yet open, support structure. In a structural sense, many tables are tsar tables, although we rarely call them that. Much more often they are called by their functional purpose or location: dining table, kitchen table, bedside table, desk. As you look further through the book, you will come across the original designs of different tables, and many of them will return to this “basic” table. This type of table can usually be found in the kitchen or dining room. Its massiveness creates the impression of strength. Although the legs are quite massive, the chiseled profile visually reduces their massiveness. In addition, the reasonable dimensions of the legs make them ideal for strong carpentry joints. Despite the simplicity of the design of a table with a tsar belt, many variations are possible. The table can be round, square, oval, rectangular. Its legs can be square, turned, tapered or carved. Even the drawers can influence the appearance of the table.

Design options

For example, a round table with the same turned legs as the base table looks completely different. The square tsar belt with the round lid gives it this distinct look. Despite the elegant cabriole legs of the table in the Queen Anne style, the massive drawers make it a work desk. The cut-out drawers at the third table make a significant visual and practical difference, making the table appear lighter and taller and creating more hip room for the occupant.

Table drawing

Furniture and interior items

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Whatever the size of the kitchen, be it a small cell in a small family or a huge spacious kitchen in a country house, in any case, a table is a mandatory piece of furniture. Despite the abundance of modern materials and the possibility of choosing designer tables made of metal, glass, plastic and stone, wooden products continue to enjoy constant popularity. A wooden kitchen table creates an atmosphere of comfort and harmony in the house, somehow you don’t even want to quarrel behind it, the mood becomes calm and balanced. You can buy such a table at any furniture store; the range of finished products is large and varied. But you can also order a wooden table from a carpentry workshop according to an individual sketch. Of course, both of these options will cost a pretty penny, so many people prefer to make a wooden kitchen table with their own hands. Thus, you can save up to 70% of the cost of a finished similar product in a store. True, to perform carpentry work you will need special tools and carpenter skills, but this depends on the chosen material and the complexity of the table design.

Wooden dining table - optimal sizes
Wood for kitchen table
Types and configuration of kitchen wooden tables
Kitchen table tops
Round wooden kitchen tables
Oval wooden dining tables
Wooden kitchen sliding tables
Wooden kitchen tables with glass
Transformable wooden dining table
DIY wooden dining table

Wooden dining table - optimal sizes

The size of the kitchen table directly depends on the area of the kitchen and the place where the table is planned to be installed. It is believed that a person feels comfortable if his personal zone is at least 70 cm, i.e. there is no one within a radius of 35 cm around him. Based on this, a square table 90x90 or 100x100 cm will be quite enough for a family of 4 people, if the room allows you to move the table away from the wall so that everyone sits on their own side. If the size of the kitchen does not allow you to move the table, then you can install a rectangular table 120x75 or 120x80 cm. In this case, two people will sit at the long side of the table, and two people at the short sides.

In a large room - a spacious kitchen or dining room - you can safely place a large wooden dining table, the length of the tabletop of such a table is 160 cm. Usually the dimensions of large tables are 160x90 cm or 180x90 cm. The space along the long side of the table is enough to freely accommodate two people, and two the people behind the ends will feel like just kings. And this is on ordinary days. If there is an event with many guests, then 10–15 people can easily fit at such a table.

But how should residents of apartments with small kitchens accommodate guests? In such cases, an extendable dining table and a transforming table come to the rescue. Sliding tables are equipped with additional inserts for the tabletop, the width of which is usually 40–50 cm. There can be from one to three such inserts, all of them are located in the middle of the table or hidden under the tabletop cover in a special niche if the table is in assembled condition. When unfolded, the length of the extendable table can reach 230 – 280 cm. This is enough to invite guests to a wedding. When folded, the length of such a table is from 120 to 180 cm.

The height of the dining table is usually 70 cm, but much depends on the height and build of the residents; sometimes kitchen tables are made 60 - 65 or 75 - 80 cm high.

When choosing dimensions for a dining table, be guided by the space allocated for it. After all family members sit down at it, there should be enough free space around for the hostess to move around, so that she does not create inconvenience for those sitting and vice versa.

Wood for kitchen table

Choosing a material for a kitchen table is a responsible task; the correct choice determines not only the durability of the tabletop and its resistance to mechanical deformation, but also the final cost of the table as a whole. Solid wood kitchen tables are considered the most durable, environmentally friendly, aesthetically pleasing and the most expensive. To make your own table from solid wood, you will need the skills of a joiner and carpenter, as well as tools for wood processing and a workshop for carrying out the work.

The density of wood for a kitchen table is of great importance. Marks and scratches may remain on the surface of soft wood, although it all depends on the care of the owners. And hardwoods can be difficult to work with for a beginner. Craftsmen distinguish three categories of wood based on density: soft, hard and the hardest.

Softwoods include: pine, cedar, fir, spruce, poplar, aspen, linden, alder, juniper, willow and chestnut.

Hardwoods include: oak, beech, elm, ash, larch, birch, apple and rowan.

The hardest ones: white acacia, yew, iron birch, dogwood.

Any wood is suitable for a kitchen dining table, even pine, which is considered the softest, but its surface must be varnished in several layers. A walnut table will be strong and heavy, and its surface is extremely durable, since even in the process of making openwork carvings, there are no chips on the walnut.

Oak wood for a kitchen table is an ideal option. In addition to being strong, hard and durable, it is also easy to work and varnish, will not warp, splinter or warp, and is rot resistant, which is essential for a wet kitchen.

Larch wood is considered healing, but taking into account the fact that the surface of the table must be covered with protective agents, it will not have the opportunity to release medicinal phytoncides into the atmosphere. Linden wood is suitable for the manufacture of turned elements, it is plastic and durable, but is affected by insect pests, and therefore also requires treatment with stain.

The most common types of wood used to make kitchen dining tables are pine, oak, walnut and wenge. Remember that you need to buy only well-dried material, with a moisture content of no more than 10%, otherwise the wood may warp, and this is fatal for the table.

In addition to solid wood, kitchen tables are made from laminated chipboard (laminated chipboard) with a thickness of 18 to 22 mm, as well as from plywood and MDF. The ends of these materials are covered with special PVC or melamine tape. These materials can hardly be called environmentally friendly and, of course, they are inferior in strength and durability to solid wood, but the ease of processing and low price tempt many. The laminated chipboard surface does not need to be additionally coated with anything; it already has a finished look. And plywood is used only for strapping or embedded parts, so it is not visible.

Whether to make a table from solid wood or prefer easy-to-process laminated chipboard depends on the preferences of the owner and his carpentry and financial capabilities. After all, a kitchen table made of laminated chipboard will cost much less.

Types and configuration of kitchen wooden tables

Once you have decided on the size of the table and the material of manufacture, you can begin choosing the shape and configuration. A variety of design solutions for tables can satisfy any request and choose a table model that will best fit into the interior of the house and complement its sophistication.

Legs for kitchen wooden table

The number of legs for a dining kitchen table, their shape and size directly depend on the shape and size of the table, as well as on the material of manufacture. For example, it will not be possible to make a table entirely from laminated chipboard on 4 legs, which are attached to the corners of the tabletop, since the laminated chipboard material is of insufficient thickness and strength. But if in such a model the tabletop is made of laminated chipboard, and the legs are made of wooden beams, then you will get a completely strong and durable product.

You can make legs for a kitchen dining table yourself according to a sketch, or you can purchase ready-made ones at a furniture fittings store. Making legs yourself is a labor-intensive task, the complexity of which depends on the configuration of the legs. This is why many people prefer to purchase ready-made products. In a furniture fittings store you can buy metal legs for a kitchen table, which are hollow pipes with a diameter of 70–90 mm, but you can also pick up carved wooden legs that look like balusters for a wooden staircase.

The dining kitchen table can rest on one or several legs. It depends on the heaviness of the tabletop, the shape and configuration of the table. You can see what different dining tables with different numbers, shapes and sizes of legs look like in the photos below showing wooden dining tables.

To install a dining table on one massive leg, you need to make a high-quality cross brace.

also have two massive legs spaced apart at a certain distance. Typically, such tables have a rectangular or oval shape. Tables on two legs are convenient because people sitting at them do not hit their legs against the legs of the table. At the bottom, these two legs widen to increase the support area and are also connected at the bottom by a header board or reinforcement board.

Dining tables with four legs are the most common category and the easiest to implement, since complex calculations for strength and stability are not required. It is enough to choose the legs of the correct size and install them at the correct distance from the edges of the table. The shape of the top of such tables can be round, oval, square and rectangular.

The shapes of legs for a kitchen table can be very diverse. Remember that the aesthetic appeal of the legs is even more important than the beauty of the tabletop, since it will be hidden by the tablecloth, while the table legs will be visible to all guests.

Kitchen table tops

The kitchen table top can be made of solid wood (furniture panel, which is boards glued together), as well as laminated chipboard or glass. Naturally, massive tables look more sophisticated and resemble a work of art, while tables made of laminated chipboard are just an ordinary, unremarkable dining table. The end of the chipboard must be edged, so the cut must be perfect. Cutting laminated chipboard at home, and even so that the cut is even, is quite difficult. Especially if the cut is semicircular. Therefore, it is better to order sawing of laminated chipboard on a machine. It is best to trim laminated chipboard using PVC tape with a thickness of 2 mm or more or melamine tape. The first option is preferable, since the edges are smooth, even and rounded. If you cover the end of the laminated chipboard with melamine tape, the edges will be sharp, they can cause puffs on clothes, cuts on the skin, and melamine tape is short-lived and does not withstand frequent water procedures.

Important! The thickness of the tabletop should be more than 25 mm, preferably 28 - 35 mm. If you use laminated chipboard with a thickness of only 18 mm, then it is necessary to make reinforcement at the bottom in the form of a false countertop made of plywood.

The shapes of the tops of wooden tables are not as varied as the shapes of the legs.

Round wooden kitchen tables

Round tables for the kitchen are an option for everyone. The main problem is that, oddly enough, such a table requires more space. You can’t put it in a corner, and even if you move it against the wall, you still need free space for people to sit around it. A round wooden dining table will look great in a dining room or large kitchen or living room, where it will stand in the middle of the room. A round table is not appropriate in a small kitchen. Perhaps if only one or two people live in the house, and the table is small - no more than 90 cm in diameter. Round tables allow you to experiment with support. For example, use only one leg or three legs, but for greater stability, four legs are still used, installed at a distance of 10 - 15 cm from the edge of the tabletop. You cannot use two support legs in tables with a round top - this design is unstable.

Oval wooden dining tables

Oval kitchen tables come in a variety of sizes, from small tables for oversized kitchens to huge tables that take up the centerpiece of the dining room.

A small oval wooden kitchen table is designed for compact kitchens; it can be installed in a corner soft set, as shown in the photo. But the most common are still large tables and medium-sized tables, since they fit in average domestic apartments and at the same time they can accommodate many guests. If there is nowhere to put a large table - the living room and kitchen area does not allow it - then an oval sliding wooden dining table comes to the rescue.

Such a table usually has a tabletop divided in half, the halves of which can be moved, and additional inserts can be installed in the middle part of such a table. By the way, the shape of such a table when folded can be round, but the table takes on an oval shape only when unfolded.

Wooden kitchen sliding tables

It is worth highlighting sliding tables for a large number of guests as a separate category. They can have different shapes: round, oval and rectangular. The most common are still rectangular and oval models. It is easier to make a rectangular wooden sliding dining table yourself than an oval one, since there is no need to round the corners using carpentry tools.

Sliding mechanisms for such tables can also be different. Old Soviet tables were not equipped with roller guides or full roll-out guides, and the table had to be moved apart with effort, as the wood rubbed against the wood. Especially if the table stood folded for a long time, sometimes it was extremely difficult to move the wooden surfaces that had stuck to each other. Modern sliding tables have a special roll-out mechanism that greatly facilitates work and also prevents damage to wooden parts and surfaces. Metal guides for an extending table can be purchased at a hardware store.

Sliding wooden kitchen tables: photo examples.

Additional wooden insert sections, which are installed in the middle of the table, can be stored under the tabletop when the table is folded. The easiest way is to make special fasteners for them into which they will be inserted.

In modern sliding dining tables, the insert consists of two halves connected by hinges, folds in half and is hidden under the tabletop using a special mechanism. To do this, under the main tabletop there must be an additional false tabletop with a hole in the middle.

Wooden kitchen tables with glass

Tables with wooden legs, but with a glass top, are suitable for rooms in a style close to hi-tech or minimalism. Sometimes a glass tabletop is installed on top of a wooden frame or a wooden tabletop with holes. In any case, the product turns out to be futuristic. The tabletop is usually made of tempered glass; it is not only shock-resistant, but also much stronger than wood, and the surface is quite difficult to scratch. The legs are attached to the glass tabletop using special fasteners. You can easily make such a table yourself if you order glass cutting from an organization that specializes in this.

Transformable wooden dining table

Transformable tables are a separate category of tables that, when folded, form a small, compact bedside table. If you place it near a wall, it will take up no more than 50–60 cm. When unfolded, such a table can accommodate from 10 to 15 people. The folding tabletop covers are secured with hinges. The most common shape of transforming tables is rectangular, but round tables are also available.

DIY wooden dining table

To make a wooden table with your own hands, you need to have a workshop, since there will be a lot of dust, and there is no point in littering your apartment or house. First you need to draw a sketch of the future table indicating the exact dimensions. Then the sawing of wooden elements can be ordered at a sawmill, if it is not possible to do it yourself. Let's consider making the simplest wooden dining table.

We will need the following materials and tools:

Hacksaw;
Jigsaw;
Drill;
Milling machine;
Plane;
Paint brush;
Bolts;
Emery cloth and sander;
Varnish;
Wooden boards 22 mm thick;
Furniture board.

The first step is to cut out all the elements according to the sketch. The legs in our case will have a simple straight shape with cutouts that can be easily made with a jigsaw, and then cleaned with a grinder and chamfered.

The legs of the kitchen table, according to the drawing, consist of two horizontal elements (supports) with which the table rests on the floor surface, and two vertical elements (stand legs). They are connected to each other by a simple bolt connection (8 mm bolts). The bolts are fastened through and secured with a nut on the reverse side. Assembly begins from the bottom, first one vertical leg-stand is attached to the supports, then the same is done with the second leg. Then a longitudinal connection - a jumper board - is inserted into a special groove between the vertical legs-stands. It is fixed by the second vertical elements of the support legs.

The next stage is installation of the countertop. We lay the finished furniture panel and in the place where we plan to attach the vertical elements of the legs, we install horizontal transverse stiffeners. These elements have a length equal to the width of the tabletop. Then a flange of wooden blocks is installed on top. The technology for attaching the flange to the tabletop and horizontal transverse stiffeners is easier to understand by watching the video at the end of the article. The strapping/flanging beam is fastened through the stiffener strips with two self-tapping screws.

First, the bars are attached to the long sides of the tabletop, then perpendicular bars located along the narrow side of the table are attached to them with self-tapping screws. As a result, there remains free space between the tabletop and the edging bars, which does not look very aesthetically pleasing. To close it, a decorative wooden strip is used. Dowels are used to secure it to the beams. Holes for dowels are made in the beams and planks. Then wooden cylinders, which are called dowels, pins or dowels, are inserted into the holes of the strapping bars, having previously lubricated the hole with glue. Then a decorative strip is put on the protruding dowels. The tabletop is ready.

All that remains is to screw the table legs to the tabletop. For this, the same bolts are used as for attaching the vertical legs to the horizontal supports. It is better to make the holes for them in advance.

The design of this table is collapsible; after the feast, it can be taken apart piece by piece and hidden in a closet or behind a closet. The sequence and technology for making a wooden table with your own hands can be seen more clearly in the video instructions below.

Country style table

This table is called by different names - country style table, retro style table, bar table - and presented in different ways. Furniture researchers usually describe it as a simple, low, oblong table on a massive base with turned legs and legs. This characterizes it quite accurately: a table with a drawstring belt and legs. Legs, especially those as strong as in the picture, significantly increase the durability and rigidity of the structure. With intensive daily use, the legs can increase the service life of the table by years. The terms "country" and "bar" are definitely associated with the 17th and 18th centuries, when such tables were widely used in hotels, taverns and bars in rural areas and towns. Surviving examples of such tables actually have massive legs - although they are heavily worn out by many feet. The table shown here is equipped with one middle leg instead of two longitudinal ones, to make it more comfortable to sit at the table. However, many early tables had pro-legs around the perimeter. The design is simple. The drawbars and legs are cut into the legs with spikes and reinforced with wedges, dowels, etc. The table cover is a wide panel “at the tip”.

Design options

The easiest way to change the design of a table is to change the legs. Our “original” table has round legs - turned - and the shape of the turning can be changed endlessly. Just remember that you will need a flat, rectangular surface for the frame-to-leg joints. On a country-style table, you can also change the legs - both in appearance and in their configuration, as shown in the figure below.

Table with drawer and drawer

The name “table with a tsar belt” refers not to the style, but to the design. This type of table is the base for kitchen tables, library tables, desks, etc. Even a workbench. A drawer or two increases the functionality of the table as the tools that go into using it can be stored in these drawers. In some cases, a small box is enough, while in others you need the largest one possible. There are only a couple of ways to incorporate such a box into the design. The simplest approach is to simply cut out a drawer opening in the drawer frame. For a relatively small box and a fairly massive drawer, it is quite suitable. If the opening turns out to be so large that it creates a danger of destruction of the board, then it is better to replace the drawer with box bars. The bars can be rotated 90° so that their width matches the thickness of the leg. Tenon joints provide rigidity. A design with two bars - supraglottic and subgular - is preferable, since the upper bar will prevent the legs from moving inward.

Design options

Installing a drawer in a round table is quite possible. But if the drawer belt has a square or rectangular shape, then you must be prepared that access to the inside of the box will be limited. If the drawer belt is rounded, then the front panel of the drawer should be made in such a way (for example, a layered bent or block-glued structure) so that its shape matches the shape of the drawer.

Table drawing

Rules for choosing a table shape for the kitchen

In the process of making a kitchen table from wood with your own hands, you need to pay special attention to its shape, because the perception of the kitchen space depends on this. Most often, owners choose a rectangle or square with right angles. This option attracts many with its balance and the ability to install close to the wall or in the center of the room, which will allow you to effectively use the free space.

Homemade dining table - side view

There are also many fans of oval models, which are very beautiful and very convenient to use. However, they do not accommodate a very large number of people. The maximum you can count on is 8 people. Also, in order to use them, the kitchen must be spacious enough - its area must be at least 8 square meters. m. Here you need to take into account that this is not a rectangular or square table that can be placed next to the wall.

A round table is a versatile and traditional solution for the kitchen, as it is ideal for any room, regardless of size. Although it has a significant drawback - fewer people can fit behind it in the kitchen than at a rectangular table. From a practical standpoint, it is recommended to choose a rectangular table with rounded corners.

Table on one support

Single Leg Table
An alternative to a table with a leg at each corner is a table with one central leg. Its tabletop is attached to a central post mounted on low legs that diverge to the sides. Here, drawers are not structurally required, but some single-support tables have them. At first glance, a table without legs and drawers gives unlimited legroom. However, while it does have plenty of knee and hip room, its "creepy" legs tend to get in the way of the sitter's feet. This is the price of stability: the projection of the tabletop should not exceed the support area by more than 15 cm. A little more and you risk knocking over the table by leaning on the edge. Critical to this design is the strength of the center post and its connection to the base or legs. The table shown here has an oval tabletop and - in accordance with the major and minor axis of the oval - two pairs of legs of different lengths. The legs are connected to the racks that taper downwards, and the racks are connected to the tabletop brackets with double tenons into the lugs. These intermediate assemblies are in turn glued onto a square core lath to form a central support that flares upward.

The pedestal table appeared in the 18th century as a small coffee table with a three-legged base. To make a dining table, carpenters combined two single-legged tables or placed an oblong tabletop on two three-legged supports. Modern models range from the simplest utilitarian to multi-rack. The structural advantage of multi-post supports is their increased resistance to tilting. Although the support area may be noticeably smaller than the projection of the table top, a large table with this type of support can be quite stable due to the mass of the support.

Table drawing

Manufacturing of parts and installation of the structure

Detailed instructions for assembling a table from boards look like this:
First, cut out all the parts according to the drawing. Boards measuring 50x25 mm are suitable for the frame. The legs are made from boards 15x50 mm.

For the frame, 4 boards, 135-145 cm long, are enough. The blanks are cut out, processed with a grinding machine, sharp corners are ground off, and the ends are well cleaned. You can additionally treat the elements with impregnation or primer. The boards are placed on edge, in the shape of a rectangle, and connected using corners and self-tapping screws.

Legs up to 0.75 m high are cut out. They are processed and secured with their ends to the tabletop using corners. To create additional rigidity, the legs are connected to the frame with self-tapping screws.

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The frame with legs is placed on a flat surface and stability is checked. If necessary, grind down the lower plane of one or more legs a little. The bottom of the legs can be made of thick rubber or linoleum.

The tabletop is made from solid wood, if dimensions allow, or from boards. They fasten it with self-tapping screws. The tabletop protrudes beyond the frame on all sides by 50-100 mm.

If you use several boards (a stacked tabletop), it is quite difficult to connect them without gaps. In this case, first assemble the tabletop on a workbench, grinding and adjusting the boards to one another. They are connected from the bottom side with additional transverse boards and short self-tapping screws, being careful not to break through the tabletop (the tips of the screws will be directed upward after final assembly).

Note! To add rigidity to the structure, cross members can be installed between the legs.

trestle table

Table on trestles
Place a wide board on trestles and you have a table. This is the ancestor of the trestle table, which is perhaps the very first type of table. Since ancient times, its form has been significantly improved, but it remains an easy-to-make collapsible table. Its elementary form remains a panel or sheet of plywood on free-standing trestles. And when the trestles are no longer free-standing, that's when the assembly becomes a table, because they must be connected to each other, to the tabletop, or both. In the table shown here, each half of the trestle consists of a fairly wide stand, embedded at the bottom into the leg, and at the top into the tabletop bracket. The wider the trestles, the better the table resists swaying from side to side. There is a long, massive rod embedded in the racks. The tabletop is attached with screws to the trestles, and the structure becomes one whole. Although there is enough space for your feet under the tabletop, you should not forget about the footrest so that when sitting at the table you do not get bumps on your shins. Also, the ends of the tabletop should protrude beyond the trestle by 35–45 cm to provide sufficient space for those sitting there. Many trestle tables are designed to be collapsible. Common methods of fastening parts of a collapsible table are shown on the next page.

Design options

Thinking about the shape of the trestle posts and legs is the easiest way to change the appearance of this table. Several examples are shown here. The original sawhorses were similar to sawhorses, and the X-shape was quite popular in medieval Europe. Pennsylvania Germans and other Germanic settlers brought this form to America, and it is still often found around picnic tables. Today the most common is the H-shape. Shakers (sectarian shakers), who made many trestle tables, usually used graceful legs with “high rise”

Table drawing

Other materials

Many people wonder what other than wood can be used to make a kitchen table. There is MDF material, it is environmentally cleaner than chipboard, but it is more expensive.

It is made by mixing wood shavings and carbide resins converted to melamine, and then pressing them. It has the ability to ignite even from hot objects.

Chipboard is a fairly common raw material and is often used when making furniture. Made from pressed wood chips and resin.

The negative side of the material is its environmental unsafety. The positive side is that it is relatively inexpensive.

A good replacement for chipboard and MDF can be furniture board. Strong and environmentally friendly material. Its cost is inexpensive. Consists of glued wooden blocks, fastened together under the action of a press.

Tables are also made from metal. Often stainless steel is used to make a table. This material is expensive, has a cold surface and requires being covered with a tablecloth. But it will attract attention with its sparkling appearance.

Stone is a durable material. A tabletop is made from it and it can be of different shapes and colors. This beautiful material is not damaged, does not accumulate dirt, is easy to clean, and does not form bacteria.

Extendable table

Extendable table
The familiar dining table can be expanded by adding an additional cover board. Then an ordinary table for a family can be enlarged to accommodate guests. At first glance, it may not be noticeable that this is a standard table with a drawstring belt, cut into two parts and reconnected using special runners. The runners can be bought ready-made or made together with the table. Each table cover must be at least 60 cm - the optimal space for one seated person.

Design options

The design of an extendable table can vary, as usual, by changing the legs and drawers. The shape of the drawers and table top has virtually no effect on the overall design. If we are talking about a table with drawers, then with the sliding version they work as usual. As the extension range increases, it may be necessary to add an additional leg to support the middle section. And don’t forget about the importance of small details - for example, attaching drawers to the table top

Table drawing

Tabletop Decor Ideas

There are many ideas for creating interesting tabletop decor that eliminates the need for tablecloths and napkins.

If you have artistic skills, you can use painting. Stencils are also used, which is quite simple, quick and does not require experience.

Many people choose self-adhesive film. You can choose any pattern, as well as wood imitation.

An interesting decor is obtained by painting the table through tulle - a lace pattern.

For the ice effect, you can use epoxy resin, which hardens when applied and creates the appearance of transparent plastic. You can add various decorative elements to the solution - shells, dried flowers, stones.

Photos of a kitchen table with your own hands will help you decide on the shape of the table, look and design.

Extendable table on one support

Extendable table on one support
A table on one support is a basic form of table that has some advantages over a table with a drawer belt. If you need a folding table, do not forget to consider this form. Such a table can easily have a sliding, folding, or hinged lid, which will expand it. The most common option is a sliding lid with an insert section. As shown on the next page, the lid is divided into two and its halves are connected by special sliding runners. Thus, these two lid panels can be pulled apart and an additional board inserted between them. What to do with the support is a key question for the master. For the table to be stable, the size of the lid and the support area must be close. In the example shown, the support is vertically divided into two parts, each of which is attached to a corresponding cover panel. When the lid is pulled apart, the support also separates.

Design options

The basic form has a support that separates when the table is extended. This is not the only option. If a relatively small expansion, say 30–40 cm, is acceptable, then the extendable table can be made on a non-dividing support. Another option is to make a table on two supports. A table with a support for each sliding half can expand by 90–120 cm.

Table drawing

Design

Before starting production, you should read the instructions on how to properly make a kitchen table. For this you will need:

decide how many people the table should be and where it will stand;
calculate its dimensions, design features, functionality;
According to your budget, select the material to be used;
prepare the necessary tools.

At this stage, we can consider that the work on designing the structure is completed.

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Table with extendable tabletop sections

Table with retractable tabletop sections
When choosing one of the types of folding tables, one of the most interesting designs is a system with retractable sections. It is easy to make and use. There is nothing unusual about the basic structure of the table. The only difference from the usual underframe made of drawers and legs is the presence of slots in the end drawers. The difference lies on top of the drawer and legs. Instead of attaching the table top to the drawer belt, its side sections, attached to long tapered runners, are laid on the drawer leg assembly. The runners correspond to the slots in the drawers. The existing central board separating the side sections is secured with screws to the frames. The table cover is placed on top of the central board and side sections, but is not firmly secured. When unfolding the table, the side section simply slides out from under the lid. The skids have stops that prevent the section from being pulled out too far. When pulled out, the lid will tilt slightly at first, but when fully unfolded it will be flush with the side section. Since the pull-out sections are part of the design, you won’t have to search through closets and storage rooms for them when you need to lay out the table before guests arrive. You simply pull out a section or two – even if the table is already set.

Design options

The system with retractable sections is compatible with any type of table support, provided that drawers are available. Thus, a trestle table or a two-legged table (as in the picture on the right), equipped with drawers, can have pull-out sections to increase the number of seats. However, the system is not well suited for countertops with shapes other than rectilinear. When folded, the side section is retracted under the lid and its edges remain (or should remain) visible. If the shape is different from the shape of the lid, then the table will probably look quite strange when folded. For example, a semicircular side section located under a square or rectangular lid will create a gap between the lid and the drawers.

Double-support table with extendable sections

Table drawing

Dimensions and ergonomics

The height of the kitchen table is usual, 700-780 mm, counting from the floor to the top surface of the tabletop. For people of average height, the optimal table height is 750-760 mm. But with the dimensions of the kitchen table in plan, the situation is more complicated.

The essence is in the same triangle of functionality: refrigerator-sink-stove. Ideally, it should be rectangular isosceles with legs of 1.2-1.6 m. However, the ergonomics of the kitchen is spoiled much more than a slight deviation from these proportions by wedging the dining area into the hypotenuse. Simply: the hostess bent over the sink or stove and pressed her seductive forms against her husband’s cheek just when he brought the spoon to his mouth. Therefore, it is advisable to make the table in the kitchen, especially of economical layouts, smaller, as long as it is comfortable for the eaters.

The minimum acceptable dimensions of a family kitchen table in plan are considered to be 600x900 mm . For single people, let's say a table is 450x750 mm, like in railway cars. In this case, in a “micro-kitchen” or kitchen area of a small-sized one-room apartment, it is also permissible to make it a wall-mounted folding one, see below. But the optimal dimensions of a kitchen table top are considered to be (650-800) x (1100-1400) mm, depending on the available usable area and the size of the users.

Table with sliding folding lid

Table with a sliding folding lid
A table with a sliding folding lid (tabletop) is relatively rare. Despite its low prevalence, this is an excellent system. The table has one additional section - a duplicate of the “main” lid; this section is connected to the lid using hinges and, when folded, lies on the main section (lid). To unfold the table, the “double” tabletop is moved to its extreme position (up to half of the underframe), and then the additional section is folded back onto the underframe. The upper edges of the drawers should be covered with felt or felt to facilitate the sliding of the lid. Making a sliding mechanism is not difficult. Each runner has a ridge that fits into a groove in its guide. The disadvantage is that during periods of high humidity the ridges may become stuck in the grooves. The basic version is usually configured as a side table. When unfolded, the edges of the tabletop are quite far from the tabletop, which creates sufficient space for people to sit under the table. The Y-shape of the legs will provide sufficient space for the legs of those sitting at the ends of the table.

Design options

When folded, this table looks like a somewhat strange dining table. To limit the overhang of the tabletop over the underframe (ensuring stability), the size of the base part should be close to the size of the folded tabletop. Therefore, a folding tabletop should be used on a type of table that does not look strange with a small tabletop overhang. Good options for this use include a side table (as a base table), a sofa table (shown here), and other specialty tables and tables. When folded, these tables can be placed close to the wall. Folding tops are commonly used in traditional card tables, but without a sliding mechanism. However, the sliding mechanism will work here too.

Table drawing

Product coating

Paint or varnish is used for coating. You can also apply stain, thereby giving the product the desired color. The wood is not just painted, but rather impregnated with liquid.

Before you start staining, to make sure you choose the color, you should try it on a trial product, because each type of wood has a different structure and shade, and the color may not come out as planned.

Table with folding boards and extendable arms

A table with folding boards and retractable brackets
A table with a folding board (or boards) is practically the “generic” name for all tables in which sections of the table top are connected to each other by hinges. It is a common species and has been present throughout American history. In any style of furniture, from William and Mary style to modern, you will find a table with a folding board. This table has folding boards as part of the design. When not in use, they can be lowered into a vertical position, saving space in the room. There are many ways to keep the folding sections in the raised position. The example shown here uses pull-out holders - you lift the board and slide out the support brackets from underneath it (much like a drawer). For some other support systems, see a table with swivel frame supports, a table with swivel legs, a book table, and several card tables. The main thing to think about for this type of table is the width of the folding boards, which can be optimally supported by retractable or swivel/hinge arms. Make the folding boards relatively narrow - say, no wider than 38 cm. For wider sections, see options with swivel frame supports or swivel legs. A long folding board, like the example shown here, will require more than one bracket. Incidentally, this example received an interesting name in the 20th century, which applies to a relatively long, utilitarian table with hinged lids. This name, which can be translated as “suffering,” creates in the conscious mind a picture of a large table laid out,” laden with food for hungry seasonal agricultural workers during the harvest season. Regardless of what we call it now, the people who sat at such a table in 1840 or 1880 probably called it a clapper table or a folding table.

Design options

While a basic dining table is quite long and relatively narrow, with a rectangular top with sharp corners, a drop-board table can be of almost any size, proportion and shape. The table top (tabletop) may have folding boards of a round or slightly rounded shape. On a shortened or square base, you can install a round, square or oval tabletop. You can round the corners of the folding sections or make their outer edges curved.

Table drawing

Requirements for a homemade table

Any furniture intended for home use must meet a number of requirements:

Sufficient structural strength.
Reliability of the fastenings used. As a rule, dowels or self-tapping screws are used to connect adjacent parts. Metal corners must be attached to the inner surface.
It is mandatory to impregnate all wooden surfaces with an antiseptic, antipyrine, and moisture-resistant compound to prevent the development of pathogenic fungus on the surface. You should be very careful about impregnating hard-to-reach places and joints, and the space around the fittings.
For a DIY kitchen folding table, it is important to consider high-quality fastening of additional panels, as well as rotating structures.

When arranging the countertop, you should carefully select the material. Preference in independent work is given to solid wood (board or beam of sufficient cross-section), as the safest material.

Thick plywood and chipboard sheets are also welcome. When choosing decorating compositions, the presence of toxic compounds and impurities should be determined.

Book table with rotating frame supports

Table-book with rotating frame supports
Table-book is the Russian name for a table with rotating frame supports, which are hinged to the frame-leg-leg assembly. The support post is connected to the rotating post by an upper and lower crossbar. The entire support can be rotated so that the raised folding section (board) can be placed on it. The swivel support became the predecessor of the swivel leg. It contains many structural elements that reflect the state of carpentry in the 16th century when it appeared. But like any well-made frame, it is structurally rigid and makes an excellent support for a folding board. Although the first such tables usually had two frame supports (one for each folding board), there were often tables with one folding board and one swivel support, and it happened the other way around - there were several leviathans with 12 swivel supports. When folded, tables were usually very narrow and saved significant space. A large table with two swivel legs on each folding board can be made so that the legs swivel both towards each other and away from each other. If they turn towards each other, then when the folding boards are lowered, the supporting posts of the frames will be located next to the main legs, visually making them more massive. When rotated away from each other, the support posts will be positioned side by side, creating the appearance of a table with six legs. The first tables were usually made in the Baroque style, with a complex turned profile of the legs. However, the example shown is completely modern in style.

Design options

A significant advantage of the book-table is the ability to support very large additional sections. Reliable support under the folding board makes the table very stable even with one section raised. Thus, it is difficult to make a very narrow table with wide folding boards. When folded, the table takes up very little space. When unfolded, it has a huge tabletop

Table drawing

What you will need for assembly

When working with soft woods such as chestnut, willow, and alder, you will need a minimal set of tools. Harder ones (oak, walnut), as well as knotty spruce, require special blades and careful processing.

To make a table yourself, you will need the following materials:

timber The frame and legs of the product are made from this wood. Cut using a circular saw or chain saw;
array. Necessary for making a tabletop;
boards. Instead of solid wood, it can be used to make a tabletop.

Tools required for work:

jigsaw;
grinder;
drill and screwdriver with a set of drills of different diameters;
screwdriver;
self-tapping screws;
metal corners;
sandpaper;
varnish;
impregnation;
square, ruler and tape measure;
level, pencil.

Book table with swivel legs

Book table with swivel legs
This table can quite justifiably be called a table with folding boards, but the swivel leg sets it apart from others of its kind. The swivel leg is a descendant of the frame swivel support (see page 158). If the swivel support is attached to the table frame, consisting of a drawer, legs and a leg, then the swivel leg is attached only to the drawer. The result is a lighter appearance. It is the size rather than the assembly of the swivel leg that characterizes this table. The tabletop diameter of only 107 cm will be quite comfortable for four. The swivel leg is used in card tables with small folding tabletops. During the Queen Anne period, a smaller version of the table shown here was called a "breakfast table" and was used both for actual breakfast and for games and tea parties. Larger tables will likely need additional swivel legs to provide better support for the tip boards. A hinge joint—essentially a wooden hinge—makes a swivel leg feasible. A fancier version than shown here makes the connection look like a metal loop.

Design options

The design of a rotating table leg with folding boards appeared in the first half of the 18th century. Although we chose a Queen Anne style table as our “base”, the swivel leg has been used in many different styles of tables. The profile of the leg will generally be an indicator of style. Chippendale style swing leg tables often have cabriole designs, but always with a claw-and-ball finish. Square shaped legs are also used in Chippendale tables. During the Federal style, Hepplewhite tables were made with tapered legs, as shown here, and Sheraton style tables were made with turned, often raised, legs.

Folding boards fold out to transform a rectangular table into a square one

Table drawing

Dowels, confirmations and dowels

Traditionally, wooden furniture is assembled on dowels. The dowel connection is invisible and cheap; Just in case, let us remind you what it is and how it is done, see fig. To connect wooden parts, wooden dowels are used, which dry out along with the connected parts; The laminated chipboard, which practically does not dry out, is connected with plastic dowels. Corner plastic dowels are rarely used, because... often break. Connections with wooden dowels are usually glued.

Dowel connection

It is often difficult for novice craftsmen to achieve accurate markings for the dowel connection. Tricks, such as marking with bitten nails (item 4 in the figure), do not always help, and it is impossible to remake an incorrectly marked dowel connection; both parts go to waste. Therefore, it is better for beginners to assemble their first products using Euro-furniture screws - confirmed ones. This is more expensive, but does not require special skills, because... the confirmation hole in both parts, compressed with a clamp, is drilled in one go, see fig.

Furniture connection by confirmations

Parts made of laminated chipboard or dense thin-layer wood, connected with confirmats, last for many years. All the designs described below can be assembled both on dowels and on confirmations. However, in the latter case, the following rules must be observed:

Use furniture grades for wood, not plumbing grades for plastic. They differ at first glance: furniture slots have a hexagon slot, and plumbing slots have a Phillips screwdriver.
The diameter of the body of the confirmat without thread when attached to the end should be no more than 1/5-1/3 (as an extreme case) of the thickness of the attached part.
The height of the confirmation neck should correspond to the thickness of the main part.
The penetration of the threaded part of the confirmat into the attached part must be at least 5-6 full diameters of the confirmat.
The hole (blind hole) for the confirmat is drilled to its full length with the head.
Use only a twist drill for wood.
The main drill must be inserted into a mandrel that exactly matches its diameter and screw size.
Drill holes for confirmations with a main drill of a diameter equal to the diameter of the confirmation by thread.

In practice, it is not difficult for even a perfect “teapot” to fulfill these conditions:

Based on the thickness of the part, we determine the diameter of the body of the confirmat without thread;
There is a lot of information on confirmatories on the Internet, from which you can, knowing the diameter of the screw body, the thickness of the main part and the drilling depth, determine the required standard size. It is better to immediately open pictures for the request “furniture screw (or confirmation) drawings dimensions”;
We are looking for a retail outlet where the seller, when asked to show furniture confirmations, shows them exactly;
We say: “I need so many of such and such a standard size and a drill with a mandrel for them.” They may offer a solid drill just for this confirmation, it will be cheaper.

Plastic dowels with a round head and a cap

And a little more about dowels. It is best to place a detachable (freely applied) tabletop of a classic kitchen table on them. Incl. and for such purposes, plastic dowels with a round head or dowels with a head and different types of corrugation on the long recessed and short protruding parts are produced, see fig. on right. Thick tabletops are attached first, approx. from 20 mm; the second ones are thinner.

Table with extendable legs

Table with Extendable Legs
The advantage of a table with a frame swivel leg over a table with a swivel leg is the stability created by the additional legs. When the folding boards are raised, they are supported by additional legs. A table with swing legs also has this advantage over a table with swing legs, but also has one advantage over a table with frame swing legs. Like the swing leg table, this table has an additional leg for each folding board. But only a narrow crossbar connects the leg to the table. These crossbars are placed in a cage of two guides installed between the longitudinal drawers, and are pulled out through the cutouts in the drawers. The leg is attached to the crossbars. Raise the folding board, extend the leg and lower the board onto it. You have a leg under the folding board and still have four legs under the stationary table top. This structure can support very wide folding boards.

Design options

Here are two very different tables with extendable legs, each of which has excellent stability thanks to the additional leg (or legs) when unfolded. When the card table is folded and placed against the wall, the additional leg is not noticeable. By unfolding the gaming table and extending the additional leg, you will have support at each corner of the tabletop. Perfect. Extendable legs are also a great addition to a long table with folding boards. If you make two extendable legs for each board, the table will not lose stability when someone leans too hard on it.

Table drawing

What materials are they made from?

Different types of wood are well suited: coniferous, oak. For beginners in this business, pine is well suited, because it is easy to process.

Wooden furniture requires a special approach. Such furniture is susceptible to fading from the sun and absorbs odors. But wood products are environmentally friendly. Such furniture looks expensive and elegant.

Table-chair, Table-bench

Table-chair, Table-bench
Table-chair owes its appearance to medieval practicality. In the Middle Ages, dwellings were small and drafty. Any furniture was expensive, everything was made with hand tools. And if a piece of furniture could perform more than one function, well, so much the better. The table-chair is clearly universal. With the lid down, it's a table. With the lid raised there is a seat. And as with most universal things, its functionality is far from perfect. With the development of the furniture industry, the table-chair became more advanced in design and elegant in appearance. The product shown here has legs and armrests attached to the sides of the seat with tenon-to-socket joints. The pronounced end of the shoe-shaped legs makes the chair more stable and the armrests more comfortable. The chair even has an under-seat drawer for more sophisticated storage than a box with a lid. The table top is attached with a dovetail mortise.

Design options

The first American tables of this type date back to the 1600s. The earliest specimens have figured turned legs. Such tables continued to be made for the next couple of centuries, especially in rural areas, and along the way they lost most of their decoration. The two simple products shown below illustrate how easy it is to turn a “classic” bench into a table. The panel legs are simply extended above the seat. The appearance is purely functional, but the effect is nonetheless attractive. In addition, both samples can be made using only simple hand tools.

Working space and tools

When deciding to start producing a table, you need to allocate a separate room, taking into account that there will be a lot of dust and debris, as well as harmful fumes, so the room should be well ventilated. It is best to use a workshop, garage or barn for this purpose. It is also advisable to use a respiratory mask.

To implement the idea you will need the following tools:

drill;
a circular saw;
milling cutter;
grinding machine.

In addition to the basic ones, you will also need measuring instruments, antiseptics and finishing solutions.