How cabinet furniture works: furniture materials and components

Assembling furniture yourself at home is a labor-intensive task, but at the same time it is an excellent help for saving the family budget, as well as an opportunity to demonstrate an original design approach and aesthetic flair. Making cabinet furniture with your own hands is not very common, but it brings noticeable benefits and moral satisfaction. The created product can be very stylish and advantageously emphasize the overall interior design.

Select fasteners after you have decided on the base material.

In order to cope with this not very simple but fascinating task yourself, you must have at least initial skills in working with the tool and be attentive and accurate. To create cabinet furniture, you can choose inexpensive parts or use materials available in the house.


The created product can be very stylish and advantageously emphasize the overall interior design.

Main material: chipboard

Wood in its pure form is practically no longer used in cabinet furniture; solid wood is considered an expensive luxury material.

Now wood is being replaced with a cheaper material - laminated chipboard (abbreviated laminated chipboard). Most often, these boards have a thickness of 16 mm; chipboards with a thickness of 10 and 22 mm can also be found on sale. 10mm sheets are typically used to fill wardrobe doors, and 22mm sheets are used for bookcases and shelves where high bending strength is required. Also, sometimes the structure is decorated with elements made from 22 mm laminated chipboard.

Almost all furniture parts are made from 16 mm laminated chipboard (except for doors and facades).

Laminated chipboard

Laminated chipboard is cut on special machines along guides. Of course, you can saw it off at home using a jigsaw, but then there will be chips and wavy irregularities on the edges. It is almost impossible to saw off chipboard evenly with a jigsaw at home.

Edges

The most vulnerable place of laminated chipboard is when it is cut down. It is the easiest way for moisture to penetrate inside, so if the protection is poor, the ends may soon swell. Therefore, the ends are closed using edges; there are several types of them.

  • Melamine edge is the cheapest, but of poor quality. You can stick it on at home using an iron.

Melamine edge

  • PVC edge 0.4 and 2 mm is the best option. It can only be glued on a special machine, so it is done immediately when ordering a cut. To save money, 0.4 mm is glued to the invisible ends, and 2 mm to the external ones, which will experience constant loads and friction.

PVC edge 2 mm

  • ABS edge is similar to PVC, but made from environmentally friendly material.
  • Mortise T-shaped profile - inserted into a groove previously made with a milling cutter. Rarely used.

Mortise T-profile

  • Overhead U-profile - can be easily glued to liquid nails at home. The main disadvantage is that the edges will protrude a few millimeters, so dirt will get stuck under it. On the other hand, this drawback allows you to hide a poor-quality cut.

Overlay edge

Article on the topic: edging laminated chipboard.

Step-by-step furniture assembly technology

Some may think that assembling furniture is a trivial matter. However, this is a common misconception. Such work must be approached with the utmost seriousness to avoid mistakes. After all, furniture can even be damaged if you do not adhere to all the rules during work and forget about caution.

In general, the entire assembly stage can be divided into several stages for greater convenience.

  1. Unpack all the details of the ordered furniture, check the set of fittings and fittings. Check that the fasteners match the color of the furniture. Be sure to compare the stated number of parts with the one actually available. Perhaps some detail is missing.
  2. Find the assembly instructions, which the manufacturing company must include with your order.
  3. Take out all the necessary parts, prepare tools for assembly.
  4. Check that the mounting holes are the correct size. Pay attention to the correctness of their location.
  5. It is better to start installing large furniture after its small elements have been assembled. This is extremely important if the master has no experience in such work.
  6. After installing the doors, shelf supports, hinges and strips, the step-by-step assembly of furniture with your own hands involves the installation of shelves and drawers. If decorative hardware is present, it should be installed last.
  7. At the last stage, it is necessary to adjust the facades and check the quality of the assembly.

It is important to remember that cabinet furniture can be completely assembled at once and then installed in a pre-selected place in the room. But when installing a wardrobe, this is unacceptable. You must first install the sliding system and only then fix it to the wall.

Facades

Kitchen fronts and furniture doors are usually made of more elegant material. But if you are making a drawer door inside a sliding wardrobe that no one will see, you can use regular 16 mm laminated chipboard with a 2 mm PVC edge for it. But the cabinets in the kitchen should look more presentable.

The facade is a separate furniture element. It is usually made to order. If the dimensions of the facades are non-standard, their production may take several months.

You can easily navigate the standard dimensions: usually the facades are made 2 mm smaller than the cabinet itself on each side. Therefore, for a standard 600 mm cabinet, a 596 mm façade is used.

The height of the kitchen cabinet also depends on the facade and ranges from 715 to 725 mm for floor cabinets (without legs) and low wall cabinets, and 915-925 mm for high wall cabinets.

Standard front sizes for kitchen cabinets

Types of facades

Since facades serve mainly a decorative function, the choice is huge; they differ in appearance and material.

  • Facades made of laminated MDF. This is a pressed material, more moisture-resistant and dense compared to chipboard. Most often, the surface is laminated to look like wood. But no matter how strong the film is, over time it can come off at the edges and crack. The main advantage of this material is its low price and fast production.

MDF facades

  • In addition to standard blank facades, there are also options with figured cutouts for stained glass. The glass is attached to the cover on the reverse side.
  • Softforming - such facades are similar to ordinary MDF, but have a characteristic two-color layout with relief on both sides. They can only be used in dry rooms, bedrooms or living rooms.

Softforming

  • Postforming – even higher quality and durable products. Thin plastic at the edges is wrapped 90° or 180°, thereby eliminating unnecessary seams at the corners. Chipboard or MDF boards are used as the base. Typically, postforming is done in a strict form, without unnecessary pretentious decorative elements.

Postforming

  • Plastic facades are of high quality, but expensive. They consist of a base (chipboard/MDF) lined on both sides with thick plastic. They always have a strict design and a flat surface, glossy or matte. The edges of the slab are sometimes protected with ABS edges or aluminum profiles. Super-glossy acrylic plastic has been especially popular lately.

Plastic facades in aluminum profile

  • Facades made of wood and veneer are suitable for lovers of natural materials, but they are expensive. In addition, there is a long debate about environmental friendliness: there is an opinion that there is so much varnish and impregnation that there is only one name left for the tree.

Wooden facades

  • Painted facades to resemble enamel. They have a significant drawback - the surface is vulnerable to scratches and deformations, and has low chemical resistance. They used to be popular due to their rich color, but with the advent of glossy acrylic plastic, everything changed.

  • Aluminum facades with glass are suitable for a high-tech kitchen. They look modern, but are difficult to manufacture and install. Non-standard fittings are used for their fastening.

Back walls and bottoms of drawers

The back wall and bottom of the drawers are most often made of HDF. The smooth side of the sheet should face the inside of the cabinet/drawer. The thickness of the sheets is 3-5 mm, the color is selected to match the chipboard.

Some people prefer to attach HDF to a furniture stapler, but this cannot be done. Over time, the brackets will become loose and the structure may warp. It’s not worth talking about the bottom of the drawers - a stapler is clearly not suitable for fastening.

Furniture LDVP

Sometimes it is inserted into a groove prepared with a milling cutter, but all dimensions must match down to the millimeter.

Most often, HDF is attached to nails or self-tapping screws. It is better to use self-tapping screws with a press washer, but before screwing them in, you must drill a hole, otherwise the product may crack.

In rare cases, for example, to create a “stiffener” in a tall cabinet or in drawers with high loads, fiberboard is replaced with laminated chipboard. These materials can also be combined.

back side

But not everyone buys furniture from IKEA and Hoff, and it often turns out that the furniture you bought does not include any fasteners, and sometimes even drawings. In this case, you will need a photo, looking at which you bought it all, nails, screws, a screwdriver, bolts of different sizes and a lot of patience.

Tabletops

A tabletop is a horizontal work surface on which you can cook, eat, read, write, etc.

Most office and desk tables, as well as cheap dining tables, have a tabletop made of the same chipboard as the main parts. The thickness is 16 or 22 mm, it is necessary to frame it with a 2 mm PVC edge.

Special countertops are used for the kitchen. They are a sheet of chipboard 28-38 mm thick, which is covered on top with durable plastic using postforming technology. Moisture-resistant countertops are green when cut, while regular chipboard is gray. A proper kitchen countertop should have a drip tray that will prevent dripping liquid from getting onto the fronts and drawers.

Cutting a regular and moisture-resistant countertop

The weak point of such countertops is the cut edge. They are usually covered with a simple melamine edge, so they become unusable within the first year of use. To avoid this, it is recommended to protect the edges with special aluminum profiles (end strip), and to protect against moisture, pre-coat the cut with silicone sealant.

There are also other types of profiles: corner and connecting strips, which are needed for joining several cabinets with different countertops.

Corner, connecting and end strip for table top

Another element is a decorative corner that closes the gap between the wall and the tabletop.

Skirting board for table top

A wall panel is sometimes used to finish the apron. Unlike tiles or mosaics, it is more practical due to the absence of seams and is inexpensive compared to glass splashbacks.

The tabletop is attached to the cabinets from below using short self-tapping screws to horizontal spacers so as not to spoil the smooth front surface.

Scheme of fastening the tabletop to the cabinet

Countertops made from natural or artificial stone are higher quality and more durable than others. Natural stone is heavy and requires special care due to its high porosity. But artificial stone does not have such disadvantages; it can be given any size and shape. The main disadvantage of stone countertops is the high price; for a small kitchen they cost from 40 thousand rubles. and more.

An alternative option is a countertop made of tiles or porcelain stoneware. You can make it yourself, but the tiles cannot be mounted on regular plywood or chipboard. The base must first be covered with cement-fiber sheets.

Basic Rules

First of all, in order to assemble any piece of furniture well, it must be of high quality. Therefore, when accepting delivery, first check the contents of your order. Most often, a single piece of furniture, or an entire set, should be accompanied by a list of parts, which will be the first part of your instructions for properly assembling the furniture.

Before this, you should have accurately measured the space that the furniture you bought will occupy, so that in the end it would not turn out that the conventional wardrobe simply does not fit in the right place.

Moreover, you need to take into account that the same cabinet must also be assembled indoors, and the latter must be spacious enough to comfortably carry out assembly and subsequent movements. Carpets should be removed and the floor itself should be covered with something like a blanket to protect the surface from damage.

Location of parts

A detail is any element of cabinet furniture: lids, tabletops, walls, facades, shelves. Each part can be either nested or invoice. Choosing the right type of location is very important.

Let's look at examples of two kitchen cabinets: one of them will stand on legs, and the second will be hanging.

Base cabinet:

As can be seen in the photo, the operating stress in the floor-standing cabinet is directed downwards from the lid and in the first option is naturally transmitted through the parts to the cabinet legs.

Correct and incorrect options for assembling a floor cabinet

In the second, incorrect option, the load is transmitted through the confirmat (furniture screw), and because of this it will be torn out of the part at a fracture.

Wall cabinet:

In the second example, the opposite is true: the load will go to the bottom shelf, and the attachment point will be on top.

Correct and incorrect assembly of a wall cabinet

If we use the same fastening scheme here as in the floor cabinet (option 1), all 4 bolts will be constantly under the load of being pulled out of the wood. Therefore, it is better if the confirmations experience stress on the fracture (see diagram “correctly”).

Furniture fasteners

Furniture fasteners are hardware (metal products) that are used to connect parts. Most often, connections are made at right angles.

  • Wooden dowels - inserted into pre-drilled holes in both parts. They are used for preliminary fixation and increasing the shear load, then the parts are fixed in a more reliable way.

Dowels

  • Furniture corners are a popular, but outdated type of furniture fastening. Among the disadvantages: appearance, loosening over time and bulkiness.

Furniture corner

  • Euroscrew (confirmed) – furniture screw. This is the main fastener for parts in modern furniture. Furniture makers almost never use ordinary self-tapping screws. Confirmats have a larger thread, so they stay inside the chipboard much better.

    Confirmat

    The holes for them can be drilled directly on site. To do this, use a special drill that makes a hole with different diameters for the thread, neck and head of the Euroscrew. The most commonly used confirmats are 7*50 mm. When drilling, special attention should be paid to the perpendicularity of the drilling, so as not to spoil the coating of the part with a through hole.

    Drill for euroscrew

    Furniture screws are tightened with a hex key or a screwdriver attachment. The caps for a Phillips screwdriver cannot be tightened tightly until the end.

The main disadvantage of this type of fastening is that screwed-in caps remain visible. To hide them, use plastic plugs matching the color of the chipboard.

  • Eccentric ties are a modern and correct method of fastening. It leaves a hole only on the inside of the product, but requires very precise drilling.

    Eccentric coupler

    To obtain the required holes, use a Forstner drill. There's not much point in going to the trouble of using them to assemble items that will be hidden, but they work well for attaching drawer doors.

Forstner drill

Article on the topic: DIY kitchen assembly.

Selecting a model for production

Conductors of industrial production can be highly specialized and universal. Templates of the first type are used to perform certain operations on typical parts. Universal devices are suitable for working with different materials and objects of various configurations.

Based on design features and functionality, conductors are divided into the following types:

  • overhead - when used, they are applied to the surface in the desired area, fixed with clamps or held by hand. Used for drilling holes in flat parts;
  • rotary - the working part moves in both vertical and horizontal planes. Used when working with elements of complex geometric shapes and to create holes, the axis of which must be located at an angle;
  • tipping - used to create holes in perpendicular planes.

The conductor device can be specially created for a certain type of fastener: dowels, confirmations, screws, corners. There are devices to simplify the process of installing fittings.

According to the type of fixation, furniture jigs can be sliding or fixed. The former can be moved freely over the surface if necessary, while the latter are rigidly fixed in the right place. The presence of an adjustment mechanism will help to combine the device with different types of workpieces.

For large furniture manufacturers, the availability of a variety of additional accessories plays a decisive role, since they significantly reduce time costs. In this case, the cost of the tools does not matter much. A completely different approach to purchasing the necessary equipment from those who have a small furniture production facility or from independent craftsmen who produce certain types of furniture. In this case, making furniture templates with your own hands turns out to be much cheaper and more practical. The choice of the necessary options and the complexity of the device are determined not only by production needs, but also by the skill and experience of furniture manufacturers.

Overhead

Turning

Universal

Furniture fittings

  • Handles - everything is clear here. They are usually attached with screws.
  • Legs are convenient in rooms where wet floor cleaning is often done, for example, in the kitchen. Any wood, especially chipboard, will quickly deteriorate from daily contact with water. In addition, the legs can be used to level furniture on uneven surfaces.
  • A silicone damper is a cheap but very useful part that can reduce the noise of impacts from cabinet doors. It is glued to the top and bottom of the cabinet door or end to soften the impact.

Silicone damper

  • Furniture hinges. Round cutouts for them (additives) in the facades can be made in any furniture workshop, if the manufacturer has not made them in advance. The hinges differ in the degree of door opening. Standard hinges have an opening angle of 180° and a closed angle of 90°. The hinges have a special mechanism that allows you to adjust the doors in height and seating depth. Separate hinges are sold for glass doors; you can clamp the glass into them without drilling a hole.

Furniture hinges

Among the inexpensive manufacturers of accessories, we can recommend the Chinese Boyard, and among the serious global manufacturers, the Austrian Blum.

Here's what you can do!

Install the wheels.

“Rollers” on the legs of furniture will not only make it taller, but also easier to move. Screwing on the wheels is usually quite simple and there are no problems with it.

“Knock off your skates”!

Many bookcases have additional furniture legs. Do you want your furniture to look more modern? Then take them off!

“Reflashing” the fasteners

Unfortunately, many furniture models use unsightly, unaesthetic door handles. When buying a new headset, make sure that it fully matches not only the design of the furniture, but also the available connectors.

Let's change the color!

You can paint any furniture in any color, even laminate. In this case, you should use oil paints. Before using them, the surface must be sanded and primed.

Drawers and slides

There are many ways to make furniture boxes. The simplest of them is to assemble a perimeter from laminated chipboard. If a beautiful facade is required, it is screwed onto the main frame from the inside (like the tabletop). The façade can also be secured to eccentrics as the fourth wall of the drawer.

But the main thing is not to assemble the drawer, but to secure it correctly.

Drawer guides are divided into roller or ball guides.

  • Roller guides are usually attached to the bottom of the drawer. He will ride on them on two rollers. A pair of such guides costs about 150 rubles, but it is highly not recommended to use them. The main disadvantage is that they do not allow the drawer to be pulled out completely; a heavy drawer in the more than half-open position may simply fall.
  • Ball guides, or as they are also called, “full extension telescopic guides,” can exactly double the length. They have many balls inside, like bearings, so they provide a smooth ride.

Roller and ball guides for drawers

  • In addition, Blum has metaboxes and tandemboxes. These are ready-made side walls of drawers with installed guides. All that remains is to install the façade, back wall and bottom.

List of required tools

Tools needed for work: tape measure, hammer, hex keys, hammer drill, jigsaw, building level.

You will need some tools to make this process much easier. Let's start with what may be useful to you when assembling simple structures. This list includes:

  • tape measure - it is needed to take measurements of furniture parts, as well as measure free space when determining the location of the future structure;
  • do not forget about a screwdriver, or even better, a screwdriver, a drill will also work - the last two tools will significantly speed up the entire assembly process;
  • hammer - it will be necessary when it is necessary to drive in fasteners such as eccentrics, etc.;
  • hex keys may also be needed;
  • regular wrenches, preferably in different sizes.

If the furniture you bought is quite simple, then this list of tools will be quite enough for you.

https://kuhnyamoya.ru/youtu.be/M9ENF6-m9OM

But in the case of assembling furniture of complex design, it is necessary to take care of a wider range of tools. To complement the first one you will need:

  • hammer drill - it’s very good if you prepare a set of different drills along with it;
  • jigsaw - this tool must be equipped with interchangeable files of different sizes and tooth locations;
  • a device for detecting electrical wiring - it will be necessary if there is no wiring diagram;
  • building level - his help will be needed when it is necessary to check the level placement of furniture or markings on the wall for subsequent fastening;
  • a set of drills designed for processing glass and ceramics;
  • A stapler for furniture can come in handy, but much less frequently than all of the above tools.
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