How to make slopes on a bathroom door?

Installing a bathroom door is not the final stage. Because during installation the doorway looks unsightly. To give a finished look, you should create a slope. Few people use the old method of finishing with plaster, as it is a labor-intensive operation. Now they are decorated with wooden planks, MDF parts, and plasterboard. Let's look at how to make door slopes in the bathroom yourself: step-by-step instructions.

They perform not only a decorative function, but also serve to preserve heat in the room. The video clearly shows how to make slopes on a bathroom door:

To avoid staining the door, cover it with plastic wrap and secure the edges with tape. Since during renovation work the doorway has a sloppy appearance, the first step is to prepare for finishing.

The opening is cleared of debris. The cracks are sealed with polyurethane foam, this helps retain heat and provide good sound insulation. Once dry, the remaining foam is cut off with a knife.

How to make slopes on a bathroom door

Installing a bathroom door is not the final step.
Because during installation the door clearance looks unsightly. To give a finished look, you should create a slope. Not many people use the old method of finishing with plaster, because it is a labor-intensive operation. At the moment, they are decorated with wood planks, MDF parts, and plasterboard. Let's look at how to make door slopes in the bathroom without the help of others: step-by-step {instructions}. They serve not only a decorative function, but also serve to preserve heat in the room. The video clearly shows how to make slopes in a bathroom door:

To avoid staining the door, cover it with plastic wrap, securing it on the sides with tape. Because during repair work the doorway looks untidy, before all this, preparations for finishing should be carried out.

The lumen is cleared of debris. The cracks are sealed with polyurethane foam, this helps retain heat and provide good sound insulation. Once dry, the remaining foam is cut off with a knife.

Content

Moisture resistant bathroom door
Dry bath doors
Bathroom doors. Choice of color and decor

The degree of influence of high temperatures and moisture on bathroom doors depends on several factors: firstly, on the volume of the room, and secondly, on the layout of the room. For example, some bathrooms have stationary showers without separating partitions. In such cases, water will most likely constantly damage the surface of the bathroom door. A similar situation will occur if the bathroom is too close to the product. If the bathroom door gets wet regularly, you need to choose a moisture-resistant design.

If the bathroom is small, there is poor ventilation, and more than one person uses such a bathroom, then the door can naturally suffer from exposure to high humidity. If this is exactly the problem in your apartment, then it is better to choose a moisture-resistant door.

In other cases, the moisture resistance of the door

doesn't play a big role. In other words, if the bathroom area is not too small, and a good hood is installed in it, and the place for taking a shower and other hygiene procedures is closed so that splashes of water do not leave the shower area, then you can not pay special attention to the moisture-resistant properties of the product, but install it , which is more suitable for the intended interior style.

A cheap and common method is finishing with PVC panels

In advance, the installation of a wooden frame is required, which is made from beams with a cross-section of 2x4 cm. Four side planks are attached to the wall slope perpendicular to each other. Nails are used as fastening. Three planks are reinforced at the top.

Prepare plastic panels, cut them slightly wider than the bevel, because the edges are bent inward. To give shape, the plastic edges are cut from the inside out with a sharp knife. The prepared profiles are applied to the bevels and secured with screws.

Mounting is simple, but requires the following sequence:

outline the proposed finishing boundary;
make 5 holes in the wall;
insert wood plugs;
Attach the panel with screws to the plugs.

Slopes in a plastic bathroom near the door are easy to install. They have a lightweight, luxurious design. The only drawback is the insignificant service life.

Plasterboard finishing

Holes are drilled along the perimeter of the door bevel at a distance of 20 cm from each other. Then insert the dowels and screw in the screws (not all the way).

Cut slats of the required sizes according to the dimensions of the opening. A guide strip is screwed along the width of the doorway.

Apply glue to the back side of the drywall strips, apply it to the wall, and press it. Excess glue is immediately wiped off.

The gaps between the wall and the bevel are sealed with excess glue. After complete drying, you should move on to finishing work.

MDF finishing

The cut MDF panels are laid on the prepared base using the above method. The panels must be painstakingly fitted to each other so as not to violate the integrity of the design. The edges of the planks are cut at an angle of 45 degrees so that they fit together. The top strip is coated with glue and attached to the top of the slope. Do the same with the side rails. Cover the gaps between the bevels and the base with plastic corners. Use water nails to secure.

For strong fixation, install supports for the panels while the glue dries.

Laying technology

For better adhesion to the adhesive solution, notches are made on the surface to be coated.
Door slopes are covered with soil.
Glue is applied to the surface of the ceramic. It must comply with the manufacturer's recommendations.
The tile must be glued horizontally. You need to start from the corner, fitting each piece tightly so that there are no seams.
A regular hacksaw is suitable for cutting.
Excess glue is removed with a rag.

When doing this type of trim, you usually only have to trim the part that fits into the window frame. On other planes it is laid out in a chaotic manner. You may even end up with an uneven end.

Leveling slopes with plasterboard for tiles

Wood models

These are popular due to their appearance and good performance. Installing them is not difficult. Wood panels should be similar in structure and thickness. The surface is previously cleaned, primed, and plastered. Then the base is prepared. Glue is applied to the planks, applied to the wall, and secured with screws. Excess glue is immediately removed.

You have made sure that the slopes are quite easy to do with your own hands. Which material to choose depends on your taste and financial abilities. With little expense you can arrange everything perfectly. You can show your imagination by using combined materials. Don’t forget about sealing, why use polyurethane foam or mineral wool.

How to level walls with your own hands, how to plaster slopes

Hello, dear readers!

Our house is undergoing renovations. At this point, we make the door slopes with our own hands: level, plaster, putty. In this doorway (to the room) we are plastering the slopes, so they only needed to be slightly corrected. For the next door (to the bathroom) we will create slopes from plasterboard, it will be much faster, especially since we broke through that doorway not so long ago, and the bricks are not yet covered with anything. See photo below.

What is needed to finish door slopes?

Facade spatula

Before all this, check how smooth the wall is. If the error from the vertical is small, it will not be noticeable and you can leave it like that. But if the error is 2 cm or more, the wall in the house needs to be leveled. I will write how to do this later.

In the meantime, a list of necessary materials and devices:

Construction level to inspect vertical and horizontal;
primer for treating slopes if the wall is porous;
all-purpose gypsum plaster (preferably “Rotband” from the Knauf company);
a drill with a special attachment for stirring plaster or glue with water;
special iron corner for smoothing corners;
a stainless steel façade trowel, preferably equal or almost equal to the width of the slope, and a stainless steel trowel to smooth the surface;
holder for sanding belt with a set of iron mesh (abrasive mesh sheet) for cleaning the surface;
final putty (better) and sandpaper for cleaning;
paint and brush for painting the surface of the slopes.
In addition, a hammer and small nails may be useful to attach the corners to the edge of the door slope, as well as scissors to cut the corners to size.
Tools

How to level walls with plasterboard

Why do you need to smooth the walls? Firstly, uneven walls are ugly and annoying. Secondly, scientists believe that noticeably uneven walls, floors and ceilings negatively affect the psyche (the psyche is a systemic property of highly organized matter, which consists in the subject’s active reflection of the objective world and self-regulation on this basis of his behavior and activities)

– disorientation of a person in space occurs if he remains in such conditions for a long time.

In our house, to our great chagrin, one wall is covered 5 cm from floor to ceiling with a ceiling height of 3 meters - this is quite a lot. Therefore, we had to line the walls with plasterboard. It was possible to do this by plastering the walls, but we didn’t want to, because plasterboard is quicker and easier, at least for us. Moreover, we are not going to hang anything heavy on this side of the room. We had to smooth the wall on both sides, on one side from below, on the other from above.

Wall lined with plasterboard

To level the wall, you first need to measure it and mark the sheets of drywall if the surface is smaller than a solid sheet. We measure the required dimensions and cut the sheet along the entire strip with a construction knife. Later, we carefully break off the strips, pressing together on both sides or placing something under a sheet of drywall.

Leveling the wall

It is advised not to create joints in terms of height and to start gluing the drywall from the floor itself. But our walls are already thick, and the thickness is added by 10 cm. We did not build as advised, but glued the drywall in such a way that the sheet was “negated” by plaster on one side to the floor, and on the other to the ceiling. Where it was most necessary to level the wall, we used 2 layers of drywall.

Naturally, we used a level to determine the vertical. When gluing plasterboard sheets, leveling the wall, it is better to start sparingly on both sides of the room. If the wall is a bit long, it’s worth pulling a string so that the belly doesn’t come out in the center of the room.

Stir the glue with a drill

You can glue drywall with pearlfix glue or another one created for this purpose. If you use pearlfix glue, you don’t necessarily need to coat the entire sheet; you can place beads of glue along the edge and in the center at a certain distance. Naturally, if you leave huge voids, the drywall in these places can be unintentionally dented during use.

So everyone chooses the technology that is suitable for their own family. If the kids don't kick the wall or play football in the house, then everything will be fine. But it is no longer allowed to hang heavy cabinets on such a wall. You also need to keep in mind that pearlfix glue dries quickly, it needs to be diluted little by little, following the technology written on the packaging.

Doorways

The size of the doorway depends on the size of the selected doors and the size of the door frame. A small doorway (with a total area of less than 1/10 and a height of no more than 1/4 of the height of the entire partition) can be cut after installing the partition. Large doorways are installed directly during the construction of new walls.

If the width of the doorway does not exceed 800 mm and there is only one row of slabs above it, then installing a reinforcing beam is not necessary. In this case, it is recommended to install the jumper on an auxiliary metal profile, which will ensure the mounting position of the slabs before setting at the joints. After the putty has dried, the mounting structure is removed.

If the opening width is more than 800 mm, and there are several rows of slabs above it, then experts advise installing a lintel beam that will take on the load of the tongue-and-groove blocks. The jumper beam can be made of wood or metal.

In our case, the entrance doorway was additionally reinforced with a number of tongue-and-groove slabs. To build a new opening, an aluminum profile was installed, attached to the slopes with self-tapping screws. He, like Atlas, will temporarily support the door “firmament.” The tongue-and-groove slabs are laid on top of the profile in a certain order - the edges of the slabs should extend onto the side posts by at least 10-15 cm, it is better if they have an L-shape.

After the solution has dried (about an hour), the profile can be removed. The lintel is ready, all that remains is to finish the slopes.

The slopes can be plastered or covered with plasterboard. In our version, both of these techniques were used: the top was covered with plasterboard, the sides with plaster.

Three openings in the apartment (the entrance, between the hallway and the bathroom, and the arch leading from the living room to the bedroom) were built according to the same principle. The lintel for the door between the living room and the hallway was not “planted” on the profile, but was built without additional support.

As you remember, the tongue-and-groove ridge is easy to saw, this made it possible to adjust it to the required dimensions of the opening.

Plastering slopes

Having leveled the wall, we proceed to plastering the door slopes. We have already installed the door after smoothing the wall on the appropriate side.

First, we measure the corners according to the height of the side door slopes and do not forget about the top one. You can nail the corners with small nails so that they do not move, measuring the vertical and horizontal with a building level. If the vertical is very broken, you can slip a piece of drywall to attach the corner. Because we have already leveled the wall, we fasten the corners and with a spatula we begin to plaster with good “rotband” plaster, mixing it with water to the desired thickness (so that it does not drip) with a drill with an attachment or by hand.

If you need to lay a thick layer of plaster, you can first apply and lightly dry the first layer so that it does not fall off, and later remove the door slopes and corners and rub the surface.

After the plaster has dried, you can sand it with a sanding belt holder with an attached abrasive mesh sheet (I wrote the names as written on the tool). Previously, however, they used sandpaper, but the newest tool is better. Later you can putty it with a final putty, clean it after drying and then paint it.

Plasterboard slope in the bathroom

We haven’t painted the door slopes yet or even putty them, so I’m posting photos while we’re working.

I am adding a photo of the bathroom slopes. We made them later from waterproof plasterboard. You can read more about this in the article “Do-it-yourself bathroom in a private home, photo.”

Repair is a long and dirty business. But if you want, you can level the walls with your own hands and plaster the door slopes with your own hands without any problems. Fortune for you!

This photo is the result of our work in the bathroom. The tiles on the door slopes are glued to waterproof plasterboard.

Door slopes in the bathroom

Bathroom corner: types, advantages and disadvantages, installation

Bathtub installation, even if done by a professional, cannot guarantee a perfect fit of the plumbing fixtures to the wall. In any case, there will be a gap, even a small one. Water will seep into it, flow down the surface, and stagnate. As a result, sooner or later an unpleasant odor will appear in the bathroom, and then mold colonies will begin to develop. In addition, the humidity in the bathroom will always be high, which is uncomfortable and unhealthy. A bathroom corner will help avoid this.

Convincing advantages

A corner for a bathtub is considered by professionals to be the best solution to the problem, much more effective than traditional putty.

Installing the plinth is quite simple to do. Anyone can handle the installation, even those without relevant experience.
All types of bathroom corners offered by the industry are resistant to all influences that can affect them: humidity, temperature changes, ingress of relatively aggressive substances.
It is easy to care for any of the bathtub corners: they are made of materials that can be easily cleaned of dirt with the simplest detergents and cleaning agents.
Bathroom corners are reliable and will last you a long time.

An additional bonus when installing such a border will be the finished appearance of the bathroom.

Please note that bathroom corners are available in different types and designs. You have the opportunity to choose a border option that will ideally match the overall design of the room, fit within your budget and not force you to turn to repairmen for help.

Self-adhesive borders

The simplest corner for a bathtub is a tape equipped with an adhesive layer. Its installation is simple, which is why many home craftsmen prefer this type of bath skirting board.

Installation can be divided into the following stages.

Calculation works. The joint between the bathtub itself and the bathroom wall is measured. The width of the gap is determined.
The joint is cleaned of dust and degreased.
Surfaces are thoroughly dried. To speed up the process, you can use a hair dryer.
If the gap is large (3 mm or more), the tape corner is mounted on the bathtub only after filling the gap with sealant. Mandatory clarification: the sealant must be neutral. Acid-based silicones are strictly prohibited, as they will subsequently corrode the baseboard.
The tape is cut into pieces of measured length plus 2-3 cm of margin.
Pasting is carried out starting from the long side. The protective layer from the curb is removed gradually so that the adhesive layer does not have time to dry.
In the corners the strip overlaps. The excess is cut off with a stationery knife upon completion of installation.

When installing, do not tighten the tape. It is not recommended to use a hairdryer during the gluing process: the baseboard begins to stretch. The final touch of the installation will be to seal the corner joints with sealant and check the contour as a whole. If somewhere the fit is considered not tight enough, these places are additionally strengthened with the same sealant.

You can use the bathtub no earlier than 4 hours after installation. If the room is humid, it is better to wait longer.

About plastic corners for the bathroom

The strip plinth is quite modest in appearance and is not suitable for all owners as a border. Plastic corners are the most popular. They are made from polyvinyl chloride, which is considered an ideal material for the manufacture of products that are intended to be used in conditions of high humidity. The plastic corner has several significant advantages.

Wide color range. You can easily choose a border to match any bathroom decor, make it a key design element, or beautifully fit it into an existing harmony.
Good flexibility. This characteristic makes it possible to install a protective skirting board even on a bathtub with a non-standard configuration.
Affordable price. A plastic corner will cost more than a tape corner, but not so much as to force the average consumer to save up to purchase it.

At the same time, gluing the product is simple, the border tolerates temperature fluctuations indifferently, is not afraid of moisture, does not become infected with fungus, and is highly resistant to acids and alkalis included in cleaning products.

The only drawback of plastic skirting boards is their loss of appearance, which inevitably comes with time. The surface may become scratched, and some types of corners may turn yellow. However, this minus is relative: the low price and ease of installation allow you to replace the curb at any time. If the plastic corner is installed correctly, is not subjected to special physical influences, and is properly cared for, the product can serve the owners of the house for 4-5 years.

Plastic corners are divided into three classes according to their configuration:

cast molding;
plinth “swallow”;
a composite type of corner.

Any of the options can be fixed either to tiles or to any other wall finish.

Installation rules

The beginning of installation is the same as when using strip plinth: the tiles on the wall are washed, degreased, and dried. The same work is carried out with the edge of the bathtub, on which the plastic border will be mounted. If the gap is wide, it should be filled with cement or sealant and wait until the filler dries completely. Further actions will be as follows.

The edge of the tile and the edge of the plumbing fixtures are taped with masking tape. This is necessary to ensure that the finishing material and the bath itself are not contaminated with glue or sealant.
A plastic corner is applied to the joint; The required length is marked, after which the required fragment is cut off.

A layer of glue is applied to the junction of the bathtub and the wall. What composition to use is a matter for the master. You can also buy special adhesives, but practice shows that inexpensive and reliable “liquid nails” do the job perfectly. Please note: if the purchased border has been stored for a relatively long time, it may be necessary to clean and degrease the inside of the border before applying the composition.

The corner is pressed evenly and tightly against the surfaces and held for some time to set. The required time period is specified in the instructions for the glue.

Excess composition squeezed out from under the fixed element is immediately removed. In about a third of an hour, it can be easily removed with a knife or a special tool.

Upon completion of installation, the tightness of the circuit is checked. Even small cracks should be filled with transparent sealant. Lastly, the construction tape is dismantled and the remaining working mixtures are removed (if you did not notice them in time).

The plastic border can also be joined using precise trimming. But corners decorated with fittings look more aesthetically pleasing, and it is better to cover the ends of the border with caps.

How to level walls with your own hands, how to plaster slopes

Hello, dear readers!

What is needed to finish door slopes?

Facade spatula

In the meantime, a list of necessary materials and devices:

Construction level to inspect vertical and horizontal;
primer for treating slopes if the wall is porous;
all-purpose gypsum plaster (preferably “Rotband” from the Knauf company);
a drill with a special attachment for stirring plaster or glue with water;
special iron corner for smoothing corners;
a stainless steel façade trowel, preferably equal or almost equal to the width of the slope, and a stainless steel trowel to smooth the surface;
holder for sanding belt with a set of iron mesh (abrasive mesh sheet) for cleaning the surface;
final putty (better) and sandpaper for cleaning;
paint and brush for painting the surface of the slopes.
In addition, a hammer and small nails may be useful to attach the corners to the edge of the door slope, as well as scissors to cut the corners to size.
Tools

Standard sizes of interior doors with frames

When starting a house renovation, you have to arrange the entrance opening, taking into account the features of a pre-selected door model, and in order to understand what size to make it, you should know the standard sizes of interior doors with a frame.

Understanding the concepts

A doorway is a place in the wall that is used for the purpose of installing the panel. It can be equipped externally or internally.

The door frame is a completely static part of the structure, which is fixed in the opening. It allows you to secure the fabric using loops.

When calculating the size of a standard interior door opening, you should know the size of the frame. Dimensions include parameters such as height, width and dimensions of the platbands. In addition, it is equally important to consider the thickness of the box and the presence of a threshold.

When performing calculations, do not forget to add the dimensions of the box on each side to the width of the canvas. It is also necessary to provide for a gap between the wall and the frame. Its size varies, as a rule, from 15 to 30 millimeters.

According to the GOST standard, the typical parameters of openings for interior doors are as follows: height - 2.07 meters; width - from 0.7 to 1.3 meters; Moreover, those whose width is no more than 1 meter are used for single-leaf panels, and the wider ones for double-leaf ones. There are also so-called one and a half pole structures. Their doors have different widths.

How to correctly measure a doorway?

Experts recommend determining the width of the opening in

its narrowest part. As a rule, it is located on top. The greatest accuracy in calculations can be achieved by measuring the opening in three different places.

Height measurement is carried out in the lowest area. To determine the depth (thickness), it is necessary to measure the width of the slopes. Once again, we draw your attention to the fact that you need to take the indicators in three places.

How to level walls with plasterboard

– disorientation of a person in space occurs if he remains in such conditions for a long time.

Wall lined with plasterboard

Leveling the wall

Stir the glue with a drill

Plastering slopes

Having leveled the wall, we proceed to plastering the door slopes. We have already installed the door after smoothing the wall on the appropriate side.

If you need to lay a thick layer of plaster, you can first apply and lightly dry the first layer so that it does not fall off, and later remove the door slopes and corners and rub the surface.

Plasterboard slope in the bathroom

We haven’t painted the door slopes yet or even putty them, so I’m posting photos while we’re working.

I am adding a photo of the bathroom slopes. We made them later from waterproof plasterboard. You can read more about this in the article “Do-it-yourself bathroom in a private home, photo.”

Repair is a long and dirty business. But if you want, you can level the walls with your own hands and plaster the door slopes with your own hands without any problems. Fortune for you!

This photo is the result of our work in the bathroom. The tiles on the door slopes are glued to waterproof plasterboard.

Door slopes in the bathroom

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Thresholds, doors, slopes, trim in the bathroom

Moderator: ilvit

Thresholds, doors, slopes, trim in the bathroom

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#1

Sun Jan 04, 2015 8:20 pm

And who finished the slopes and platbands in the bathroom? In all our apartments we had this traditional version of fittings and platbands from the inside of the bathroom.

But this option, in combination with good veneered doors, is generally not very practical, especially when the bathroom is located next to the door, as in the photo. Because for various reasons, the platband in the bathroom can sometimes end up in water, which over time causes the veneer on it to crack and lose its appearance. I'm looking for alternative finishing options. So far I have found these: 1) A door without a casing, the slope is finished with tiles, the joint of the tiles is NOT specially sawed at 45 degrees, but is closed with a plastic corner so that there is no sharp corner in the way: