Restoration of wooden doors: how to restore an old door

Interior door blocks, for the manufacture of which they use fibreboard, chipboard, MDF and other lightweight wood materials that are weakly resistant to various damages. High air humidity and poor antiseptic treatment lead to rotting of the material. Distortions of hinges and displacement of the box can cause rubbing, loosening and chipping on the structure. Peeling of the top layer of the fabric is possible if the lining is incorrect.

But the most common damage is cracks, dents and holes. Most often, such defects occur under strong mechanical or shock loads. For example, when moving furniture or household appliances, the door structure may be damaged. What to do in such a situation, and how to fix the hole in the door on your own?

How to repair cracks on doors?

Hi all!
Recommend what to use to seal the cracks? The door is ancient, 40+ years old, interior, made of something solid, probably pine. I don’t want to change it to the newest one, it’s a pity. Well, she still looks strong. The only thing that bothered me was the vertical cracks. Here I took a chisel and an iron ruler and widened these cracks. In some places there are cracks through, in others there are not. Now I’m wondering how to fix this?

• Just some wood putty?
• Sawdust + PVA?
• Acrylic sealant?

Putties are currently available for various types of wood. later polish.

It’s hard to fall in love with the Arctic, but it’s impossible to stop loving it later!

The panels are seriously torn. It’s just not made correctly. The panels are clearly glued into the grooves. You can repair them using any of the given methods. Only PVA has more shrinkage.

+1 As annoying as it may sound, over time it will break again for the reason described a little higher. The size of the door is, of course, not normal, you will have to change the clearance to fit the standard, or pick up the chisel again, take out the remains and do everything right.

The council didn’t realize anything about the polish.

The system may be incorrect, I’m not an expert, but when you pick up this door, you understand – it’s a thing! Damn languid!

I’ll probably try this: I’ll pour acrylic sealant inside the cracks - and it’s comfortable to fill it with a pistol, and it’s probably the most elastic of all materials. I will putty the outside with wood compound and paint it later.

Previously, in these cracks there was a composition unknown to me. Maybe it was super, or maybe it was completely G. I hope that modern products will be more resistant to cracking.

It looks like the panel actually stretches away from the hinges. Did you inspect the door geometry using a square? Has the door become diamond-shaped? Is the gap below/above the door even?

Actually, I am engaged in the construction of websites and online stores.

I would seal it with putty; I’m too lazy to mix sawdust and PVA. And paint on top. For the reason given to us, I would not take acrylic; not every paint will work. If the doors are absolutely as precious as a memory, it’s probably better to remove them, sand them, tighten them with pins, and then putty and paint them again later. and so - the newest ones like this cost 3-4 thousand, and they can be varnished, not painted

Ivan Dodonov wrote: It was simply not manufactured correctly. The panels are clearly glued into the grooves.

That’s why wood breathes in accordance with the heating season. If the cracks are repaired, the next time the joint between the frame and the frame will crack, which {in itself} is an order of magnitude worse. There are three options here: To leave it as is, while decorating the cracks is the most common solution, since the panel is cracked, somewhere it has already come apart and the adhesive connection with the binding is torn. Disassembling the canvas, which {in itself} is very labor-intensive in a non-dismountable canvas, and it is easier to purchase a new one. Cut out the panels, glue them together, clean them of glue, paint them and install them back on the expensive glazing beads, in such a way that there is movement, that is, glue the glazing beads only to the trim and side frames.

Since the specialists have arrived, I’ll clarify.

The door stands in a suburban ancient timber house. The house is properly insulated. Room with electronic heating, below 15 degrees. the pace doesn't drop. The external dimensions of the door do not change. Nothing is spreading around the perimeter. In any case, the gaps in the box are all normal, the mechanism with the handle works fine, nothing sticks, nothing rubs anywhere.

There are cracks in the canvas somewhere that are not through because I simply couldn’t pick out the putty there, well, there are no cracks there, in short, I didn’t bother.

The door is painted with latex paint. I really don’t understand how it mixes with acrylic sealant.

Are there black stripes on the panels, not cracks, but the work of your own hands?

WEREG wrote: It turns out that the black stripes on the panels are not cracks, but the work of your hands?

In general YES. At first, the cracks looked like cracked paint, no more than 1mm thick. Then I wrote in the first post “I took a chisel and an iron ruler here and widened these cracks.” So these obvious cracks in the photo are all my doing. It’s just that earlier I often simply painted over the cracks, but now I’ve opened them up. Sorry for the possible confusion in the description

Then this is the question, I think the window in the car with a broken window lifter had to be closed/opened manually? The strategy is the same here, try to press your palms tightly against the panel on both sides and move it from its place. If it moves at least 1 mm in both directions, then everything is fine. Then you go to the auto parts store and buy 2k polyester putty, ordinary putty without fiber can be applied to a layer of up to 3 cm under the color, it hardens rather than the hardener normally applied within 20 minutes.

The allegory about the window lifter is absolutely clear, it happened at one time. The panels (if I call them correctly) inside the door do not move, they stand still. At a theoretical level, this may be possible to achieve, but then restoration, i.e. It will take me several days to remove the remaining putty. Naturally, I don’t want to do this.

I picked it out where it was breathing, i.e. There were thin cracks in the paint. Where no cracks appeared, I did not pick.

Tum, cheap wood putties will crack after a season and don’t go to a fortune teller. In any case, polyethylene 2k putty is better, because... the panel experiences repeated overloads. It’s better to fill out the cracks more thoroughly and prime them before applying polyethylene putty. To save putty, you can, together with the putty, fill the gaps with wood chips, for example, an ordinary wood ruler will do. Another option is to go through the gaps with a circular saw for complete cleaning and smooth edges and glue the strip with wood glue. ps yes, you simply have no idea how much labor-intensive work you have to restore the door and the most important thing is that the result is predictable - in a year you will return to the original state.

I have no desire to go through the circular tool; from time to time I come across carnations there; I came across them when I was cleaning these cracks. I used the polyester putty on my mind, thank you. I’ll go to Leroy, Xatorama or Maxid and see what they offer.

The gap is wrong, what should I do?

Situations where the gap is very small or large are common. In the first case, it is necessary to reduce the door leaf, in the second - insulation (closing) of the gap.

The first step is to check whether the box is warped; to do this, use a building level. Must be observed:

1. Diagonals - the distance between opposite corners is equal.
2. Angles - all should be 90 degrees.

If the gap is too small, you can carry out the following manipulations:

• Remove paint, especially on painted wooden doors that are many years old. Layering paint over time greatly reduces the gap.
• If there is no paint, then use a hand plane to trim the contours until a normal gap is formed.

If the gaps are very large (for a standard sheet - more than 6 mm), steps are needed to insulate and close the gap. This is especially important if the door is an entrance door, because having too much distance between the frame and the door leaf leads to:

• Deterioration of protective qualities. Such a door can be easier to break into, and therefore enter the room.
• The cold creeps in during the winter months.
• Sound permeability improves, which does not contribute to comfort.

Note! If the door set (frame and leaf) are certified in accordance with state standards, there should be no problems with gaps for the front door. The question of how to seal the gap will not arise.

Possible causes of damage

Interior door blocks, for the production of which fiberboard, chipboard, MDF and other lightweight wood materials are used, which are weakly resistant to various damages. High air humidity and poor disinfection treatment lead to smoldering of the material. Distortions of hinges and displacement of the box can cause rubbing, loosening and chipping on the structure. Peeling of the top layer of the fabric can occur if the lining is incorrect.

But the most common damage is cracks, dents and holes. Most often, such shortcomings appear during powerful mechanical or shock overload. For example, when moving furniture or household appliances, the door structure may be damaged. What to do in a similar situation, and how to fix a hole in the door on your own?

Strengthening the box

According to building codes, the frame must be placed tightly in the doorway: if there are cracks, it will hang on the nails or fastening pins alone and will quickly become loose. In addition, a lot of heat is lost through such openings and the soundproofness of the room deteriorates.

If an empty space is found between the wall of the building and the door frame, repairs are carried out using wooden slats of appropriate thickness, carefully driven into the gap. You can also eliminate the gap with quick-hardening solutions - gypsum or cement. It is important not to forget that before carrying out this type of work it is necessary to dismantle the door frames.

If the door frame was initially poorly secured, then measures must be taken to further strengthen it. To do this, the racks and crossbars are aligned, carefully secured in this position, after which additional holes 50 mm deep are drilled. In such cases, it is recommended to make 3 holes into which steel pins are carefully driven so that they protrude 15 mm from the plane. Holes of such a diameter are also drilled in the door opposite these pins so that the fasteners do not prevent it from closing tightly.

Preparation of tools and materials

First, you need to figure out how to seal the hole in the door if it is interior. So, the following materials and tools will be useful in the process:

• construction knife;
• medium width spatula;
• brush for applying varnish;
• sandpaper of different grain sizes (or a sander);
• construction tape;
• polyurethane foam;
• solvent;
• putty;
• polyester or epoxy;
• paint and varnish composition for working with wood;
• primer for wood.

If you need to fill a hole under a door or repair a frame, you will need a building level, a pencil, a tape measure and lubricant for the hinges.

Rules for forming gaps

In order to avoid the problem of closing too large or developing small gaps, the door must initially be installed correctly. To do this, you should follow a few simple rules during installation:

1. When installing the box, you need to leave 1-2 cm for the initial gaps, because during the hardening process the foam swells and puts pressure on the box. During this process, it is impossible to create the correct gaps.
2. When the foam has already dried and completely hardened, you can begin to form the gaps. To do this, you need to place a material of the required thickness on the sides and top between the canvas and the box. In the case of a standard box and canvas size, this is 3-4 mm. The best thing in this case is the packaging cardboard from under the door kit. It is just that thick.
3. To prevent the box from moving in the opening, it should be wedged.
4. Check door balancing. You can use a building level for this. Despite its weight, the canvas should “sit” firmly on the wedges. In this case, the supporting structure should not move when open.

As a result, after removing the wedges and spacers, the door structure should maintain an even geometry, and the gaps should remain in the dimensions that were planned when they were formed.

An option on how to remove a draft

How to fix a hole in an interior door: step-by-step {instructions}

Repair work is carried out in a horizontal position. The door system must be removed from its hinges and placed on a level and clean surface.

Before closing the hole in the interior door, straighten the edges of the hole with a construction knife and fill the inside with newspapers, paper or cardboard. Such measures allow the system to be slightly heavier, give it strength and reduce the consumption of polyurethane foam. Then we proceed to fill the hole with foam.

After complete drying, we begin to clean the canvas. We remove the remaining construction foam protruding outward with a knife. Please note that only huge pieces of foam can be removed with a knife. Small residues can be removed with solvent. Otherwise, new scratches and cracks may appear on the door surface.

To increase the strength of the structure, apply a layer of epoxy. Apply putty on top. Any subsequent layer is applied only after the previous one has completely dried. We process the dry putty with a grinder or fine-grain sandpaper. Cover with primer and paint materials. Now you understand how to seal a hole in a door made of fiberboard, chipboard or other wood material.

Primary repair methods

Depending on the identified defects, they choose a method to update the old door.

Restoring dimensions

It is easier to return solid wood door panels to their original dimensions than any other. If they are swollen and do not fit into the box, the excess is simply trimmed off with a plane according to pre-made markings. This is also done when the box is skewed as a result of shrinkage of the house, when it is undesirable to dismantle it.

If the situation is the opposite, the canvas can be extended by gluing or screwing it with self-tapping screws onto the ends of the strips of the required thickness.

Another solution to the problem is to replace the box and adjust the canvas to it. Source hammer-shop.ru

Removing paintwork

Before restoring an old door covered with paint or varnish, the old coating must be completely removed, exposing the wood. It is almost impossible to do this with hand tools, especially if there are threads, panels and other reliefs on the surface. Therefore, one of the following methods is used.

• Mechanical cleaning using power tools – grinders, grinders with special attachments.

The cleaned surface is brought to perfection by hand with sandpaper Source kot-pes.com

• Thermal cleaning using a hair dryer or gas torch, under the influence of which the old coating softens and is easily removed with a spatula.

Removing paint using a hair dryer Source kraski-net.ru
See also: Catalog of companies that specialize in finishing materials and related work

• Chemical cleaning using chemical reagents that soften and corrode the coating, which is also removed with a spatula and rough rags.

Advice! Wood is very sensitive to high temperatures and aggressive substances, so the last two methods of updating varnished wooden doors must be used with caution.

Elimination of mechanical defects

Under the removed layer of paint, wood defects are almost always discovered. Before removing them, the surface is ground, getting rid of burrs, the most persistent areas of the old coating and leveling it. For initial processing, choose coarse-grained sandpaper, and for final processing, fine-grained sandpaper. After finishing the work, remove the resulting dust with a vacuum cleaner and a slightly damp cloth.

Flat surfaces are polished with a power tool, embossed surfaces are sanded manually Source prntr.com

Remaining chips, cracks and scratches must be repaired. The choice of material for restoring a wooden door depends on the size and depth of the defects. But first, the cleaned, sanded and dust-free surface is degreased with white spirit.

• To fill large cracks, knot holes, chips and gouges, it is best to prepare a homemade putty by mixing small sawdust or wood dust with wood glue, PVA glue or clear varnish.
• Small defects are repaired with the same compound or store-bought wood putty and filled with hot wax.
• Shallow scratches can be masked with a wax pencil of a suitable shade.

Note! Homemade putty shrinks when it dries, so potholes need to be filled several times.

To fill the cracked cracks between the panels, another mixture is more suitable - PVA glue and chalk.

After the repair mixture has completely dried, its excess is rubbed with fine sandpaper until smooth, the dust is wiped off and the surface is again degreased with a solvent.

How to seal a hole in an MDF door without an open gap

A wooden door does not always have open damage, but the presence of dents and other defects also require repair.

To evenly fill the internal space and prevent the structure from twisting, drills and drills are useful. We drill the wood panel in several places. We insert the tube of the cylinder with polyurethane foam into the resulting holes. Fill the inner space with foam. We work carefully to prevent deformation of the structure.

The next step is smoothing the door leaf. You can use construction foam. Such a work plan requires certain abilities, since the application of the material must be uniform. The upcoming method of action is no different from the previous option.

Epoxy resin

Using epoxy resin is the most reliable method for repairing cracks. Two-component products consisting of resin and hardener are easily modified into adhesive filler. With their help, you can obtain a composition of the desired viscosity and color, which will fill cracks, chips, potholes well and provide strong bonding.

After curing, epoxy resin gains strength that exceeds the strength of wood, and due to its fluidity and good adhesion, it penetrates into all cavities and thus restores the integral structure of the wooden product and prevents the further spread of cracks. This method is often used when working with solid wood, where, due to high internal stresses, the problem of cracks is especially acute.

After complete hardening, the epoxy resin turns into an inert and safe plastic of high strength. Epoxy can be used to repair defects in food contact items, such as repairing kitchen countertops or repairing cracks in a cutting board or dining table.

Decorating the door leaf

Finally, let’s look at the question of how to decorate the damage. We figured out how to repair an MDF door with a hole. Decorating does not require any special skills or abilities. The most common options:

• cover the treated space of the hole with a mirror or any other decoration;
• glue self-adhesive decorative film;
• hang a poster or collage with your favorite photographs.

The tips and advice discussed in this publication will help you remove damage to the interior door structure with your own hands. Now you understand how to cover and how to decorate a hole in the door.

Folk remedies

• Vinegar and olive oil will mask minor scratches and imperfections. Mix the components in proportions of 1 to 3 and rub the resulting composition onto scratches on the door or furniture. Then wipe the surface dry with a clean cloth;
• Walnut quickly fills scratch grooves and leaves no marks. The treatment looks natural and natural. To do this, cut the nut in half, gently rub the half with light pressure on the damaged areas and wipe with a dry cloth to remove the oily residue. You can cover this area with a thin layer of wood varnish;
• Iodine will help restore dark wood. This is walnut, oak or mahogany. Take an old toothbrush or other small brush, soak it in a weak iodine solution and treat scratches on the countertop, cabinet, door or other wooden products;
• Mayonnaise eliminates cracks. Fill the grooves with the product, remove excess and leave for two to three days. Due to the protein, the tree swells and closes the cracks on its own. After this, remove the remaining mayonnaise and polish the surface;
• Mix cigarette ash or toothpaste with water until a thick mass is obtained. Rub the resulting mixture into the damaged area and leave until dry. Remove excess and polish the surface;
• Black tea also helps remove scratches. Pour 35 ml of boiling water over one tea bag. Leave the composition to brew and gain strength. Then apply tea leaves to the affected areas using a cotton pad and wait until dry;
• Homemade mastic made with your own hands. To prepare the mixture, take 40 grams of solid wax and melt it, or use ready-made liquid wax, but it also needs to be heated. Add 30 grams of turpentine and a teaspoon of alcohol to the solution, mix. The product is applied warm to the affected area and distributed over the surface, then rubbed with a napkin until shiny;
• Sandpaper will remove all damage from wooden surfaces. To do this, use fine-grained sandpaper, which is used for finishing sanding, with a number P 600 and higher. Moisten the sheet and work the surface along the wood fibers. Finally, walk around the defect to smooth out the marks and buff the piece with a cloth.

How to repair a hole in an interior door: {instructions} in 7 steps

If a hole or crack has formed in the interior door, you can fix it if you can overcome two tasks:

• Firstly, if your doors are hollow, for example, made of MDF or chipboard, then there is nothing under the canvas that could delay the patch or provide support, preventing its next cracking.
• Secondly, almost all doors have a wood texture. A smooth spot of a patch on such a door will stand out simply because the sketch does not match.

You can repair a hole in a door or a crack if you have two of the problems listed above by creatively using means that were originally intended for something else.

This guide describes how to use foam to fill the void behind the warped area, silicone for molds, and casting resin to replicate the wood grain of your patch. Below I will share a detailed summary.

Video description

If you are wondering whether it is possible to restore interior doors that are over a hundred years old, watch this video:

Restoring cracked panel doors

If the panels dangle in the grooves of the main planks, the canvas will have to be disassembled and reassembled and glued.

The panels are held in place by a tongue and groove joint lubricated with glue, and are sometimes tightened with dowels or self-tapping screws, the caps of which are closed with wooden plugs. To restore the integrity of the door, you need to do the following:

• The removed canvas is placed on the edge, the plugs are removed and the screws are unscrewed;
• separate the frame elements and inserts;

How to fix a hole in a door: main steps

1. Fill the empty space behind the warped area with foam to make it easier to attach the patch to the hole and provide it with strength and support so it won't crack as the door is used.
2. Use epoxy filler to fill the warped area and bring it flush with the whole surface.
3. Create a silicone texture for the surface of the door (in our example it will be a faux wood texture).
4. Use mold silicone and casting resin to replicate the surface texture of the filled and sanded area.
5. Attach the patch and paint the door.

And now everything is detailed step by step. Repeat after me and your door will look like new!

Step 1: Gather the necessary materials to repair a hole or crack in the door

• Polyurethane foam, for example, Oppa.
• Heat-resistant silicone for molds, for example, Mold Max.
• Putty based on epoxy or polyester/styrene, for example, Novol all-purpose putty.
• Acrylic or polyester filler for putty, for example Slick Sand.
• Modeling clay or putty, for example, stainless putty for plumbing - to prevent leakage when pouring silicone for texture.
• Solvent for varnish or another, for cleaning tools and accidental drops of resin, for example. Good Off.
• Masking tape, for example Profitto.
• Disposable brushes and rags.
• Primer and paint.

Step 2: Fill the void - the hole or cavity under the crack

Use foam to seal the hollow area behind the hole in the door leaf. Insert the tube into the warped area so that the foam adheres to the back of the door and completely fills the space inside the frame. Inject a large amount of foam to ensure that the entire area under the damage is filled. This will be easier to create if you remove the door from its hinges and place it on the steps or on the floor.

You may have to drill holes in the door panel so that the foam can be injected well if you only have a crack on the interior door or a split, and not a large hole, and at the same time you cannot insert the polyurethane foam nozzle. You will need almost a couple of access holes because the foam expands greatly after application.

Due to expansion, it will also be squeezed out of the holes. This is normal and expected. Do not allow the foam to drain from the surface of the door, otherwise you will have to wash off the foam stains. Use masking tape to protect the surface of the door if you have to work with the door in a vertical position.

Allow the foam to harden completely (it is better to leave it overnight (that is, in the dark)

, so perhaps).

Step 3: Trim the Spray Foam

After the polyurethane foam has completely hardened, it will become perfectly dense and will no longer stick. The foam provides sufficient strength to prevent the warped door leaf from warping during normal use. If the door leaf is not supported sufficiently, your door patch may eventually crack from the constant bending and vibration of opening and closing.

Sealing cracks

As you know, heat escapes from the house through the cracks between doors and frames, window sashes and frames. Thermal insulating strips that can be used to seal cracks will help keep your home warm. They prevent the penetration of cold air from the street and also eliminate the unpleasant slamming of doors and window sashes. Today there is a wide range of heat-insulating devices on sale, many of them specifically designed for specific surfaces and areas. However, remember that stability and attractive appearance are more important than cheapness and ease of installation. Sealing strips for sealing cracks in doors and windows are made from different materials and a wide variety of designs. Self-adhesive and tongue strips, which are inserted into grooves, are usually attached to the face of the folds and stops that limit the movement of the window or door sash. The strips, which are nailed, are attached to the sides of the folds or stops. In sash windows, plastic or spring metal strips are attached to the sides of the frame and to the lower crossbar of the upper sash.

There are also multifunctional sealing strips that are also used to seal gaps between the frame and the surrounding wall, for example, silicone paste. It is sold loaded into special cartridges along with sealing guns. The simplest thermal insulation means are draft-proof felt strips or strips of flexible rubber or plastic that are screwed to the bottom of the door. There are also flexible threshold strips on sale that are attached to the floor between the sides of the door frame. More complicated is the spring damper, which moves down when the door is closed. The nest of such a heat insulator is placed in a gutter in the floor and is invisible to the eye. The outside of entry doors should be protected with a wood, plastic or aluminum weather barrier to protect the bottom of the door from snow and rain. Weather barriers are sold with draft-reducing devices and sill strips with drainage grooves.

Before installing any type of weather stripping, check that window sashes and doors are not warped or seized. Surfaces must be dry, clean and in good condition. For silicone paste, surfaces are prepared in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. Thermal insulating strips are installed very carefully. If the seal is tight, the doors and windows will be difficult to open; if it is weak, the work will be done in vain.

Types of thermal insulating strips. Self-adhesive foam or plastic V-shaped strips don't last long, but they are inexpensive and easy to install. More durable are heat-insulating strips, which are fixed with panel studs and are rubber strips inserted into aluminum carriers, or strips of porous rubber covered with thin plastic and inserted into a PVC carrier. Fleece brush strips, combined with a flexible plastic strip, are suitable for fixing to moving parts of the window, such as the crossbars and vertical bars of lifting sashes. The figure shows a model that has a dense tongue that fits into a slot along the edge of the frame.

How to insert thermal insulating strips on the inside surface of a door frame

Self-adhesive strips. Press the adhesive side of the strip against the inside of the box and peel off the backing tape as needed. Where the hinge is, glue the strip to either the front surface of the stopper or the inside surface of the frame. The top, bottom and sides are pasted over the inner edge of the frame. In the corners, trim the strips with a knife so that they fit snugly against each other.

Strips that are nailed to the door frame. Cut a strip long enough to fit around the inside of one of the jambs. With the door closed, lay the strip so that its flexible side rests against the outer surface of the door, then nail the strip into the pre-marked holes with wallpaper nails. Cut two more pieces of strip - one for the opposite jamb, the other for the top rail of the box. Nail it in the same way.

How to use silicone paste

How to use a caulking gun. Prepare the required surfaces as specified in the manufacturer's instructions. Insert the cartridge into the caulking gun and trim the tip of the gun so that the thickness of the silicone strip is slightly thicker than the gap that needs to be sealed. Hold the gun at a 45 degree angle to the surface, gently squeeze the trigger and move the gun along the fold, applying a long strip of silicone. In corners, release the trigger and remove the pistol from the frame. To prevent silicone paste from contaminating the surface of windows and doors, apply Vaseline or cleaning fluid to them. Close the window or door, leave the paste to dry for the amount of time indicated in the instructions, then open the door or window and remove any excess material.

How to install a sealed draft device

1. Taking out the groove. Remove the door and secure it in a vice or door trestles. Find out from the manufacturer's instructions what the depth of the groove (insert) should be. Using a surface planer, mark two stripes along the width of the groove in the center of the door end. Set the machine to the desired cutting depth. Set the width limiter and turn on the machine. First, cut along one line, then move the machine, tilting it slightly away from the groove towards the door so that the wood does not crack, finishing cutting the groove along another marked line.

2. How to insert the working rod. Insert the draft device into the groove, align its end with the hinged edge of the door and cut off the excess with a hacksaw. Insert the spring-loaded operating rod into the device frame and align it flush with the hinge side of the door. Insert the end stop on the opposite side. Attach the operating rod in the end stop to the device box, and attach the box to the door with screws. They are included in the package.

Wax correctors

Special sticks made of hard waxes are a simple and convenient solution for cosmetic repairs of small cracks, chips, dents, deep scratches and other defects. Wax correctors have gained wide popularity mainly as a means for cosmetic repairs of furniture and other wooden products used indoors and not subject to heavy wear. Wax correctors are offered in colors that imitate various types of wood. The colors are easily mixed to achieve the desired shade.

Furniture wax

Another easy-to-use method is to use furniture wax. In this case, you will need a soft version. This option is suitable for masking small seams and joints between planks.

1. Clean the surface of the trim.
2. A soft wax pencil selected by color is applied to the joint and rubbed into the surface.
3. You need to wait for about half an hour.
4. After drying, the remaining wax is carefully removed.
5. The surface is polished with felt and a cotton cloth.

Thus, masking gaps, joints and seams on door frames is an easy task. Using special formulations, you can cope in a short time. However, the problem is always easier to prevent: install door frames correctly and, if necessary, contact specialists.

Putty

Using gypsum putty with the addition of acrylic paint is a method often used by specialists. This method will help if the gaps are significant and careful masking is necessary. Follow the following algorithm:

1. Sift the gypsum putty to avoid the appearance of lumps.
2. Add acrylic paint that matches the color to the mixture.
3. Apply a small amount of the mixture to part of the platband or trim remaining after work.
4. Wait until it dries completely and evaluate whether the color of the putty and the strip is different.
5. If there are differences, adjust the color of the putty to the desired color.
6. Once the desired shade is achieved, apply colored putty to the joints and gaps.
7. After drying, putty residue can be easily removed using a soft rag.

This method is durable and makes it possible to achieve a visual monolithic effect.

When applying putty, it is advisable to use a silicone brush instead of a spatula.