4 technologies for making wooden doors with your own hands

The door market is huge and natural wood still remains an unfading classic. But not every door can be made by a beginner, so further you will learn which canvases an amateur can take on, and which ones are better to order from a workshop. After which we will analyze in detail how to make a door at home, in 2 options and with all the subtleties.

Not every door can be made by a beginner

Do-it-yourself features

Why even bother with such a complex campaign? In fact, there are plenty of arguments in favor of creating a door on your own. Here are some of them:

• the presence of a non-standard opening - ordering a non-standard door in a workshop will cost much more. If the dimensions of a product go beyond the standards, its price soars at jet speed;
• the inability to purchase a suitable model that will fit into the design and be combined with other interior elements;
• desire to save money - if there is an opportunity to make a budget door from natural wood yourself, and not buy a ready-made one for crazy money, why not take advantage of it;
• the presence of outbuildings in the courtyard of a private house - a barn, a bathhouse, a barn - they have no need for expensive doors;
• the desire to create a unique, inimitable product and to know that you made this wonderful door yourself.

Conclusion

As you can see, making a door with your own hands is not so difficult, in any case, a person who is not afraid of a hacksaw and a hammer can handle such a task. In the video in this article, the craftsmen reveal their subtleties and give recommendations for arranging doors, so study our instructions, watch the video and don’t be afraid, everything will work out for you.

Sources:

• https://o-dveryah.ru/derevjannye/kak-sdelat-iz-dosok-svoimi-rukami/
• https://DomZastroika.ru/dveri/vhodnye/izgotovlenie-derevyannyx.html
• https://stroyday.ru/remont-kvartiry/okna-i-dveri/kak-sdelat-dver-iz-dosok-svoimi-rukami.html
• https://roomester.ru/dekor/dveri/derevyannaya-dver-svoimi-rukami.html
• https://kachestvolife.club/stroitelstvo/dveri/poshagovaya-instrukciya-izgotovleniya-derevyannoy-dveri-svoimi-rukami-kakie-instrumenty-potrebuyutsya
• https://doorchange.ru/svoimi-rukami/kak-sdelat-dver-samostoyatelno-2-varianta-dostupnyh-novichku.html

• 1

What type of wood to choose

One of the most critical stages is the choice of source material. Each type of wood is endowed with special mechanical and physical qualities. It is necessary to know the features of different types in order to determine which one is ideal for solving a particular problem. All wood can be divided into two categories - deciduous and coniferous.

Hardwood

This series contains the most valuable species, endowed with extraordinary strength, high density, expressive texture and attractive natural shades.

Wood has the highest value:

• beech;
• nut;
• mahogany.

If there is no reason to spend money on expensive raw materials, you can get by with more affordable ones. Pay attention to the advantages:

• cherries;
• oak;
• ash

These rocks also have high strength, but will not require such significant costs as representatives of the first category.

Oak wood is very durable and resistant to rotting. Due to the content of tannins, which react with dyes during etching, it allows you to achieve intense color effects. Processing the material is not difficult - it lends itself well to simple tools. Making parts of unusual, curved shapes from it is not a problem.

Ash is as hard and durable as oak. However, this material requires regular treatment with antiseptic compounds. Otherwise, when the first wet season arrives, it will begin to rot.

Conifers

Coniferous wood never loses its popularity. This is explained by its availability and a wide range of positive qualities. The most popular materials are those made from pine, followed by spruce.

The strength characteristics of pine are slightly lower than those of deciduous trees. This disadvantage is more than offset by high resistance to biodegradation, mold and mildew, excellent thermal conductivity and extraordinary flexibility during processing. High air and moisture permeability guarantees decent quality of treatment with protective compounds.

Spruce is more susceptible to rotting compared to pine, but has less hygroscopicity and thermal conductivity. Products made from this material retain their original shape much longer.

If you choose between these two species, you should give preference to pine.

Deciduous tree wood is ideal for making interior doors. And for entrance structures, pine would be the best choice.

Coniferous wood

• Pine. The most popular type of conifer. It is soft and a pleasure to work with. But as we remember, soft rocks do not tolerate moisture well and begin to rot. This breed is almost always used for making home doors.
• Larch. The beautiful texture and high resin content make this wood an ideal material for entrance doors.
• Spruce. Similar in properties to pine. Only spruce is even softer and less durable.

Types of doors by design

Doors are classified according to various criteria - the design of the door leaf, the method of opening.

The following types of door leaves are distinguished:

• massive;
• paneled;
• panel;

Groups of door structures by opening method

• hinged - with one or two doors;
• sliding – so-called compartments, equipped with a guide system;
• folding - doors resemble an accordion or a book;
• radial.

To make wooden doors, boards, beams, and furniture panels are used. To decide on the choice of material, you need to understand the pros and cons of each of them. Let's look at the characteristics of the various options.

Massive doors

To make doors from solid wood, planed or grooved boards of large thickness are suitable. The latter are convenient because they are easily combined into a single fabric without forming cracks. This becomes possible thanks to the locking system, which consists of a longitudinal protrusion and a corresponding slot on the edges of the board. The canvas, made up of boards, is fastened with transverse or diagonal jumpers.

When making a front door, you should give preference to more expensive breeds. Oak, larch or cedar are suitable. For outbuildings, budget options are quite suitable - pine, linden or spruce.

Panel doors

This is a separate category of doors with its own design features. Their canvases consist of a frame and rectangular inserts - panels.

The main load-bearing element of this structure is the frame, which is otherwise called the frame. The remaining elements are attached to it - wooden inserts. The harness is usually made from solid wood. Glued laminated timber will also work. Four parts connected to each other form a frame. The bottom element is wider than the top and side panels. This provides the structure with additional strength. You can further strengthen the bottom of the door by covering it with sheet metal. Galvanized steel or aluminum will do. This is especially true for strengthening entrance panels.

No less important elements are the transverse strips - in other words - the middle ones. They are bars that are attached horizontally in the middle of the future canvas.

And finally, the details that gave the name to the entire structure - panels. These fragments are inserted into the frame, resulting in the formation of a single piece. Special grooves are provided for their installation. The panels are attached using a tongue-and-groove system or decorative beads, which allow you to quickly and without damaging the door replace the damaged element. Panels can be made from chipboard, MDF, plywood and even glass. They are installed in the door frame, and in addition to their main purpose, they also have a decorative function. They are given interesting shapes and decorated with carvings or paintings.

Panel doors

The design of the panel door is much simpler than the previous version. It consists of a box and the main part - the shield itself. Fiberboard, veneer or laminate are suitable for making the box. The frame is first made from boards. It is advisable to use sheets of chipboard, MDF or fiberboard as a shield.

Panel sheets can be:

• solid - made from interconnected bars;
• hollow - a frame of connected beams is sheathed with lamellas;
• small-hollow - have a variety of fillings, for example, honeycomb.

Tools for work

Tools you will need:

• to create grooves and holes, you will need a router;
• hacksaw;
• to sand the ends of the doors, you will need a plane;
• chisels;
• hammer;
• screwdriver

Standard set of tools for making doors
To assemble doors you will need the following materials:

• tongue and groove boards;
• self-tapping screws;
• glue.

The purchased wood is additionally dried. The boards are laid so that they do not touch each other.

Necessary materials and tools for making doors

Before you start, make sure you have all the tools available. If something is missing, it is better to purchase the necessary tools in advance than to discover their absence during the manufacturing process.

So, for work you will need:

• a workbench or large, durable table;
• hand router for wood - with its help you can easily form grooves, holes, grind the surface and trim the corners of the product;
• plane - it will be an excellent assistant in leveling and grinding the ends;
• regular hacksaw;
• different-sized chisels;
• rubber hammer;
• regular hammer;
• sandpaper, or even better, a sanding machine;
• building level, tape measure, pencil;
• screwdriver or Phillips screwdriver;
• self-tapping screws of various calibers;
• wood glue.

Materials are purchased depending on the type of door chosen and its manufacturing technology. It can be:

• grooved or planed boards;
• particle boards;
• plywood;
• glass;
• laminated timber.

Insulation and sound insulation

Insulation is used to carry out thermal insulation work. With its help, the part of the canvas that is covered with fiberboard is pasted over. If the foam extends beyond the frame, it is cut off with a knife. The finishing material is fixed on top - fabric or leatherette. A stapler is used to secure the material.

Door insulation scheme

Step-by-step door manufacturing technology

The first step is to thoroughly dry the purchased wood. This step can significantly delay the manufacturing stage, but is necessary. Drying on average takes from 1 to 2 months. The boards should not touch each other. They are interspersed with special gaskets. This technology ensures unhindered release of moisture from the material. Using undried wood can lead to door deformation and the formation of fungus.

When drying conifers in a special chamber, it is unacceptable to set the temperature above 50 °C. The resin will leak out, which will lead to a decrease in the strength characteristics of the material.

Making a solid door

In order to make a solid wood door, you will need to complete the following steps:

• mark and cut the boards into fragments of the required size;
• check the location of the resulting segments - they need to be rotated so that the growth rings “look” in one direction;
• If there is a tongue-and-groove fastening system, connect the fragments into a single web. First you need to coat the joints with wood glue. This will provide the structure with additional strength;
• the spike remaining on the end of the canvas should be cut off and the resulting plane processed;
• the resulting structure must be fixed with clamps and left until the glue dries completely;
• the next stage is surface treatment using a milling cutter and subsequent grinding;
• The final stage is fastening the canvas using crossbars. To do this, it is necessary to prepare bars of the required length, preferably trapezoidal in shape, to ensure a tight connection. Next, you need to form the grooves - usually their depth is equal to half or one third of the thickness of the canvas. After this, all that remains is to drive the crossbars into the grooves coated with glue using a rubber hammer or mallet.

Making a paneled door

Manufacturing a panel door is a complex process that requires a variety of tools, as well as specialized knowledge and experience.

The first step is to prepare the timber for making the frame. It is processed using a milling cutter, after which grooves are cut out on the pillar elements, and tenons are made on the transverse elements. Next, the panels are made. Solid wood, plywood, chipboard, glass are suitable for this.

All elements are connected into a single structure, and all tenons are coated with wood glue. You will need a large space to work.

Step-by-step assembly instructions:

1. We coat the tenons of the crossbars with glue and install them in the grooves of the vertical elements.
2. We install the middles.
3. We install panels.
4. We glue the vertical beam.
5. We fix the panels with decorative glazing beads.

Use a rubber mallet to tightly connect the parts. Align the corners, focusing on the construction corner. Clamp the product with clamps and leave to dry.

Manufacturing of a panel door

To make a thyroid cloth you need:

• assemble a frame from beams connected at the corners using the “half-tree” technology;
• line the frame on one side with plywood or fiberboard. The material is fixed with glue;
• the resulting void is filled with cellular material or MDF bars. They are glued from the inside to the existing cladding layer.
• The structure is covered with a second sheet of fiberboard and sent under the press.

If desired, you can make an additional facing layer from laminated material or sheathe the canvas with wooden slats.

Making a door from clapboard

The basis of such a door is a frame made of beams. It can be made according to the same principle as the frame for panel panels. We cover the finished frame with clapboard and the door is ready for installation.

It's actually not that simple. Keep in mind that each board needs to be coated with glue for a more secure fit. On the first day, it is recommended to install only two slats - on both sides of the canvas. Glue the lamella and secure it with a self-tapping screw. After this, we clamp it with a clamp until the glue protrudes along the entire perimeter of the rail and wait for it to dry completely. On the other side we do the same actions. Every day we add only two boards and gradually cover the entire plane. It is better to drill the connecting holes in the lamellas in advance, since when screwing in the self-tapping screw, the panel may split.

How to make and assemble a door frame with your own hands

Before describing the process of manufacturing a door frame, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with its structure. It is a frame structure that is mounted on the edges of the doorway. The frame is necessary for installing the door, which is attached to the base using hinges. The following materials are suitable for manufacturing: wood, MDF.

The design includes the following elements:

• counter beam - a post on which the lock's strike plate is installed;
• loop beam - loops are attached to it;
• ceiling beam - top bar;
• threshold - bottom beam, relevant for entrance doors.

Manufacturing stages

1. We make the necessary calculations. To the dimensions of the door leaf we know, we add an additional distance to create small gaps - 3 mm on the top and sides and a few mm on the bottom.
2. We saw off the necessary parts at an angle of 45°. A miter box will help you avoid making mistakes when forming an angle.
3. We connect the bars into a U-shaped or rectangular composition using self-tapping screws.

Manufacturing of accessories and platbands

The following materials are suitable for these elements: MDF, wood, chipboard.

To make the extension, measure the width of the wall that needs to be covered with a plank. We select a wooden lamella of the appropriate size. We file one of the long sections. A chamfer is formed that can easily extend beyond the box part. We sand the surface of the lamella to an ideal state, after which we paint it with stain and cover it with two layers of varnish.

In the case of MDF or chipboard, everything is much simpler. You will only need to veneer the edges of the slats, covering them with edge PVC using a hot iron.

It is best to fasten homemade extensions using self-tapping screws. You need to start from the top horizontal bar to leave the opportunity to adjust the length of the side slats.

For homemade platbands, it is better to use solid or glued bars. Solid products require painting. Glued ones often have a coating in the form of veneer or laminate.

When making a decorative element yourself, you can choose their shape to your liking. Your platbands can be:

• smooth - have a flat shape, are the easiest to manufacture;
• profiled - have various recesses or protrusions on the surface. In order to make them, you will need at least a hand router;
• figured - the most complex type of platbands. They are manufactured using special programmable machines according to specified drawings. You can make figured platbands yourself or order them from a wood carver. Products decorated with hand carvings are the most expensive version of curly planks.

What your platbands will be like depends only on your taste and financial capabilities.

Installation of ready-made decorative elements is carried out either using special nails without a head or mounting glue. When fixing massive planks, it is better to choose the first option. The platbands will be securely fastened, and traces of thin nails will be practically invisible.

Before installation, the ends of the platbands are cut using a miter box at an angle of 45°. The planks are fastened in the following sequence:

• strip near door hinges;
• second side element;
• top panel.

To hide the fastening points as much as possible, you can rub these places with mastic or a cosmetic pencil.

Independent insertion and installation of fittings

Mortizing a lock is a rather complex stage at which you cannot make mistakes.

The first step is to lay the door flat. After that, drill a hole at a distance of 100-120 cm from the bottom. Insert the latch and trace the hardware along the outline with a marker. After this, we make a recess under the front cover. For this work, you can use a chisel or milling cutter. We place the housing in the recess so that its edge is level with the end of the door. We mark the places where the handles are attached and drill holes. The latch is installed in place and fixed with self-tapping screws. Next comes the turn of the handles and decorative trims. Special hexagons are provided for their installation.

Manufacturing procedure

The assembly of an interior door is carried out using different methods. But if the meaning of all operations is clear, then developing your own technology is not difficult.

Box

It’s quite simple with it - assemble a rectangular structure, and only then place it in the opening. But installation is recommended only after the fabric has been manufactured. This makes it easier to mark the places where the awnings and latch (lock) are attached. Doing this on a jamb already installed in the opening is much more difficult. In addition, it is necessary to select the grooves for the door. Therefore, after the box is knocked down, you still have to return to it.

Canvas

It all depends on the chosen design, and therefore where to start - with tying or cutting MDF boards - is decided based on the door drawing.

Frame making

The technology is simple - a rectangular shape is assembled according to the size of the sash. But there are options for filling it.

• Stiffening ribs are installed in the form of vertical posts. This solution is advisable if the frame is planned to be sheathed with MDF or plywood - the strength of the coating will be ensured.

• One horizontal jumper in the center. A good solution for insulating an interior door. For example, installed in a passage leading to a cold room (utility room). The canvas is filled with expanded polystyrene, and its slabs are foamed around the perimeter.

• Leave one frame without additional elements (small-hollow design). How to fill it and whether to do it is decided depending on the specifics of the room. But this frame option is only suitable for interior doors that are covered with boards. Otherwise, there can be no talk of strength.

Fabrication

• Its dimensions are known; All that remains is to cut the MDF into 2 - 3 fragments, according to the drawn up drawing.
• The second stage is assembling the harness. That is, the frame is assembled using a ready-made canvas.

Advice. To make work easier, it is recommended to mark all workpieces. On individual samples (according to the diagram), cuts, cuts, and drillings are first made for installing door hardware elements. This is much easier than doing such work on an assembled large structure. The difficulty is that the marking must be extremely accurate.

Door processing

• It is advisable to use the antiseptic again. Since material sampling and drilling were done, individual areas may be “exposed.” Secondary use of the anti-rot composition eliminates this disadvantage.
• Surface design. Options are marked: stain, varnish, veneer, film - depending on the design concept.

Preparation for installation

At this stage, latches, eyes, handles and hinges are installed on the canvas. The box is placed in the opening, aligned and securely fixed.

All that remains is to hang the door, align the second half of the canopy with the mounting holes and secure it with self-tapping screws (included in the kit).

“Finishing chord” - checking the correct operation of the canvas, tightness, absence of distortions; If deficiencies are identified, eliminate them. All further measures - insulation of the opening, installation of platbands, decorative design - are a slightly different topic.

Making an interior door at home is quite possible. Success largely depends on proper work planning, choosing the optimal design scheme and your own diligence. And quality is ensured by a good tool, the purchase of which is not worth regretting.

Installation of door frame and door

The next step is to install the frame and hang the door.

1. We install the formed box in the opening and fix one side with long self-tapping screws in places that will be closed with hinges.
2. We attach the hinges to the door leaf and frame and hang the door.
3. We close the door and mark a place for the locking plate. Drill a hole to fit the latch.
4. We secure the second side of the box. Before this, you need to close the door and adjust the gap, making it the same over the entire height of the door.
5. We install a wooden wedge between the frame and the doorway at the latch level and fix it with a self-tapping screw through the hole provided for the locking hardware.
6. We install the locking plate and secure the box with wooden wedges.

Painting

At the next stage, the finished structure is processed and decorated. It is recommended to adhere to the following plan:

• processing the coating with sandpaper or a grinding machine;
• impregnation of wood with antiseptic. The first layer should dry well. The processing is then repeated;
• the canvas is covered with a special putty, which can be replaced with a primer. In this case, the canvas is processed 2 times. But each applied layer must dry well. This will take about 2 days;
• Paint, varnish, and stain are used to finish the coating. The stain must be applied over the primer. Taking into account the desired shade, the appropriate number of layers of stain is applied. Each layer will take 4 hours to dry. To fix the result, the stain is coated with two layers of varnish.

To finish the door, paint, varnish, and stain are used
Experts advise treating the door with special protective agents against moisture and pests . If the door leaf will be installed in an apartment, then it is coated with a fire retardant. To perform a more complex decoration option, you will need the help of a specialist. Read more about painting and treating doors in the article “Painting wooden doors.”

How to seal cracks

In order to ensure additional stability of the structure, and to insulate a house or room, it is necessary to fill all the cracks with polyurethane foam.

Before starting work, cover the face strips with masking tape. We moisten the cracks with water and fill them with foam. After hardening, we trim the protruding bubbles of the sealant with a construction knife and tear off the tape along with the splashes adhering to it.

Panel assembly

The most complex and beautiful version of doors. This door consists of a frame made of solid wood and internal inserts with a milled pattern (panels) and geometry made of the same wood. The whole structure comes together like a puzzle. As a result, you get a beautiful and durable product.

• For the frame, the vertical components of the frame are first made. And then the jumpers. Top, middle and bottom.
• Process the vertical posts with a router along the edges. And also make a groove for inserting crossbars and panels.
• The counter strips are milled on the horizontal strips. They should fit into the grooves of the verticals.
• Make panels. Leave the groove at the edges 2 mm thicker than the groove in the verticals.
• Assemble the entire structure using wood glue.
• This is precision jewelry work. Be careful when calculating sizes.

Door with panels

Ideas and options for processing and decoration

Before decorating a wooden door, you need to thoroughly sand its surface. The next very important stage is treating the product with an antiseptic solution. After the product has dried, you can begin decorating.

First, cover the door with primer or putty in two layers. After this, the door can be painted or a couple of layers of varnish applied to the surface. If you have the necessary available tools, minimal artistic abilities and decorating skills, you can decorate the canvas with carvings, polyurethane stucco molding, stencils, and mosaics.

Interior doors can be “revitalized” with wallpaper, fabric, and vinyl stickers.

Decorating wooden doors

When all structural elements are ready, you can move on to the next stage of manufacturing wooden doors - decoration. This moment is very responsible and important, because during the finishing process it is very easy to damage components if you act ineptly.

Experts advise not to do such actions yourself, but to trust the professionals. However, if you have at least some skill with a brush and know how to apply paint, then treating the door yourself is not difficult.

If you need to paint several structures, then before making a wooden door, you can buy a spray gun and a compressor, which will make the process easier. But this is quite expensive and does not make sense if it is used only once. It's cheaper to rent them. These devices allow you to quickly and efficiently apply paint to the surface of wood.

In addition to painting, ways to decorate the door leaf are:

• treatment with varnish or stain;
• gluing with PVC or veneer;
• coating with film or laminate;
• leatherette lining;
• drawing a picture on wood;
• wallpapering;
• fabric decor;
• wax impregnation and more.

If you decide to make wooden interior doors with your own hands from a material that is susceptible to moisture, then before decorative finishing you should coat the future door with a water-repellent composition. It is also recommended to apply a composition that protects against putrefactive processes, as well as the formation of mold and the spread of parasites.

Guides for sliding doors

As you understand, the sash is not everything. Guides are needed along which these very doors will move. There are two of them - upper and lower. In appearance they differ significantly.

The top guide for the wardrobe door The bottom guide is made of metal

When installing the door, first insert it tightly into the upper guide, lift the sash all the way and place the lower rollers in the corresponding slot. The entire structure is shown in the following photo.

Assembly diagram

Design options

Of course, you understand that the door can have different configurations.

In the case of interior rooms, there are the following options:

• swing;
• recoil;
• folding (accordion);
• cassette;
• sliding door (sliding);
• rotating, etc.

In our case, it is the classic swing door that is of interest. I think we’ll talk separately about how you can make interior sliding doors. Many people will be interested in this.

As for classical swing designs, there is its own classification:

• Paneled
  . There are quite thin inserts, that is, panels, in the door leaf;
• Shield ones
  . This is a frame that is covered with lining material, plywood or laminate, for example. And filler is placed in the voids;
• Hollow
  . These are the same panel structures, only there is no filler inside.

In fact, the filler improves soundproofing and thermal insulation properties. Not everyone and not always need this. Therefore, it is quite possible to do without filler. Here everyone decides for himself.

Photo report on the assembly

First, all profiles are cut exactly to the calculated dimensions. The accuracy must be perfect. The cut is strictly perpendicular, at 90°. Holes are drilled in the handle profiles for installing rollers and fasteners.

The holes are made through two diameters. The exact size depends on the dimensions of the purchased fastener, but basically there are two sizes: 4 mm and 6 mm, as well as 6 mm and 10 mm.

How to drill holes

One such hole is made at the top, the center of which is located at a distance of 7 mm from the edge of the profile, at the bottom there are two holes - the first at a distance of 7 mm from the edge, the second at a distance of 42 mm from the profile cut.

Holes at the bottom of the side profiles

During assembly, all parts of the filling are assembled first. First, if there is glass or a mirror, sealing rubber is installed around the perimeter. It is simply put on the end of the part by pressing a finger. The seal is cut off along the edges and placed end to end, but without overlapping on the next side.

Seal on the mirror

A protective film is glued to the back of the mirrors. You can use regular self-adhesive. This film will prevent fragments from scattering if the mirror breaks.

If the sash is composite, we assemble it using connecting profiles. The filling parts are simply inserted with force into the profile. Sometimes considerable effort may be required. You can tap the end with the back of your hand or use a rubber mallet for this.

Simply insert the filling parts into the grooves of the profile and tap on the end

When the sash is assembled, the corresponding profiles are installed at the top and bottom using the same principle.

Top profile installed

Then it’s time to install the side handle profiles. Everything is the same: push the filling into the groove, make sure that it fits all the way along the entire length without distortion. When the frame is assembled, it is necessary to tighten it with fasteners. Let's start from the top. Take the fasteners and insert them into the previously drilled hole. If the distance was measured accurately, the screw fits into the groove of the upper cross member.

If drilled correctly

Tighten the connection using a hex wrench. Slightly not tightening it all the way, insert the upper rollers between the screw head and the profile jumper, then tighten the screw.

Insert the upper rollers

We repeat the same operation on the other side. Then we move down. Here the fasteners are installed in the upper hole. Just tighten it all the way. We repeat similarly on the other side.

Install the fasteners from below

Next, install the lower rollers. We insert the thrust plate into the groove and press it.

Installing the lower roller - insert the plate into the profile

We press the spring, tucking the roller body inside. We insert a screw into the hole, trying to get into the socket, and tighten it with a hexagon. You may need it in a different size - slightly smaller than the others - since this screw is usually thinner and longer.

Press the roller, insert the screw

There is no need to tighten it all the way. So that it goes into the plate half a centimeter or so. Then, when installing the door and adjusting its travel, this screw adjusts the position of the sash - the angle is raised or lowered.

Tighten the screw that fixes the roller

If you press the roller wheel, it will go into the housing, then return due to the elasticity of the spring. This simple mechanism ensures smooth movement of the sliding wardrobe door.

Having assembled all the sashes, we proceed to installing the guides. They must be located strictly one below the other, even without deviations of a millimeter. Use a plumb line or a laser level (read how to use a laser level here).

First screw on the top guide. It is attached either to the ceiling or to the top of the cabinet. The distance from the shelves is at least 100 mm, otherwise the doors will touch shelves, things, and hangers.

Screw on the top guide

We insert bumper springs into the grooves in the lower guide from the sides. They will limit the movement of the door. The number of springs is equal to the number of leaves; they are installed at both ends.

Door stoppers

Insert travel limiter springs

If you don’t have a laser level, so you don’t have to worry about plumb lines, you can start by simply laying the bottom guide without fixing it yet. Then install one blade, placing its upper rollers at the top and installing the lower ones in the desired groove. This way the doors will connect the upper and lower guides.

Having aligned the sash vertically, automatically align the bottom guide

By aligning the canvas strictly vertically, you will automatically align the lower guide. All that remains is to screw it on. Just be careful that the doors do not move.

The last thing left to do is to glue the Schlegel on the sides. This is a fleecy self-adhesive strip that softens the impact of the sash on the walls of the cabinet (or simply on the walls, if the cabinet is frameless).

The final touch is the Schlegel sticker

Here the wardrobe doors are installed and ready to go. You can watch the process again in the video.

Materials used

The product is based on natural wood or its analogues. As for the situation with the box, it is recommended to use the same wood or MDF.

Metal is used to make hinges, handles, embed and insert a lock, and assemble the finished structure in a box.

If it's natural wood, the smartest thing to do is simply open it up with 1-2 coats of clear varnish. Some paint the doors, but then the natural beauty of the wood is hidden. And the point in using expensive material is lost.

Therefore, to finish doors that do not look particularly attractive without coating, lamination, veneering and painting are used.