The back of the cabinet is designed not only to protect things from dust. It adds stability to the furniture, creates completeness, and also performs a decorative function, complementing the design of the room. It will be useful for home craftsmen to learn about the types of fasteners, materials and secrets of installing the back wall of a cabinet. Experts will express their opinions and answer readers' questions.
Example of fastening the rear wall of an OSB cabinet
Do you need a back wall in your closet?
This part rigidly connects the wardrobe structure, giving it the correct shape and additional stability. But this is not always required for a number of reasons:
- Built-in furniture may not have a back. Such a cabinet is mounted to the wall of the room or inside a niche, and does not require additional support.
- The absence of a back part in cabinet furniture will lead to loss of the original shape and distortions. The front end will also suffer. Swing doors will warp along with the body, and sliding doors will fall out of the guides and slide to one side. This happens because the things inside put an uneven load on the body. In addition, the niches in the walls and the shelves of the wardrobe have different shapes and sizes, which creates additional difficulties for the stability of the entire structure.
- If you buy a partition cabinet that will be used on both sides or as a shelving unit, it will not need an additional wall.
- For a kitchen cabinet, not only stability is important, but also adherence to the wall, so the back is attached using grooves.
Design
Let's return specifically to my kitchen. As I already wrote above, the choice of the concept of my set was influenced by a washing machine, the main feature of which is the vertical loading of laundry. That is, unlike most washing machines, my “working” plane is the top plane, and all the rest can be hidden from the eyes of an outside observer. This is how the idea of a corner kitchen was born, where the sides of the corner are cabinets and the top is the machine. This arrangement is the most rational and provides maximum functionality.
In the photo above you can already see a new window installed without a window sill and in a reduced opening. The old opening, in my opinion, was too large for such a room, and I refused the window sill because I planned to fit a tabletop in its place. At the same time, electrical wiring was done and socket blocks for household appliances were installed. Later, tiles were laid on the floor and walls, and wallpaper was hung. I approached the final design of the headset with the following picture.
What material is it made from?
To dwell on a specific option, let's consider the positive and negative sides of each.
| What is the name of the material | Its advantages | Main disadvantages |
| Chipboard (chipboard) |
|
|
| Fiberboard (Fibreboard) |
|
|
| HDF (High Density Fiberboard) |
| high price |
| Plywood |
| cannot be processed with all types of materials |
| LDSP (Laminated chipboard) |
| high price |
| OSB or OSB (Oriented Strand Board) |
| some manufacturers add glue to the material that contains resins that are harmful to health |
Features of fastening shelves depending on the type of wall
When installing fasteners for shelves to the wall, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the material from which the base is made. The higher its strength, the more reliable the attachment of the hinged structure will be. Soft wood and fragile drywall surfaces do not provide adequate support. Methods for attaching shelves and the type of fittings used vary.
Concrete wall
To drill a hole in a solid concrete surface, you will need a hammer drill. The work must be carried out using a special drill for concrete, the diameter of which is selected based on the size of the dowel. The depth of the hole should correspond to the length of the fastener.
The drill is placed at a right angle; at the slightest inclination, the diameter of the hole at the entrance will increase, and therefore the dowel and self-tapping screw will not be firmly secured. This may cause the shelf to fall later.
How to secure?
Let's look at the details of self-assembly of the rear part. There are several ways to do this, each of which is suitable in a specific case.
Overlap fastening
The most practical and inexpensive option for this method would be fibreboard (in common parlance “hardboard”). The thickness of the fiberboard should be 3-5 mm. This material is especially suitable for sliding wardrobes. You can also use plywood, OSB and other materials with a flexible structure. You should not use nails for fiberboard or chipboard - fastening with their help is unreliable, and the panel may fall off over time at the slightest impact.
Step-by-step installation instructions:
- Assemble the cabinet and open the back according to its size, but 2 mm less on each side. For example, for a structure measuring 1800x700, the fiberboard should be 1798x698 (the base is not taken into account).
- Secure the corners of the sheet to the body. Use screws measuring 3x16, 3.5x16 or 4x16 for this.
- Screw in the screws along the edges of the sheet. Their exact number depends on the size of the cabinet. For greater strength, the distance between the screws should not be more than 10-15 cm. At this stage, to save money, you can nail a small number of nails measuring 1.2×25 or 1.2×20.
Groove mount
Most often this method is used for kitchen wall units. In this case, the recessed wall does not prevent the cabinet from fitting tightly to the wall and is easily adjustable. This method is also suitable for furniture that is in plain sight. The back part inserted into the groove becomes invisible and the cabinet looks beautiful.
Installation in grooves with additional fixation with corners
Step-by-step instruction:
- Pre-make grooves 10 mm deep. in the walls, bottom and roof of the module.
- Now secure the back into the grooves. Assembly starts from the bottom and ends with the roof.
- If the width of the grooves is too small, you can slightly grind the edges of the back wall.
In the form of an internal insert
This method allows you to secure the back part from the inside without moving the cabinet. Most often used for large and heavy furniture. But a fiberboard sheet is not suitable for this. “Orgalite” demonstrates good strength during tensile deformation, but in this case the entire structure will compress the back wall, so it is better to choose laminated chipboard with a thickness of 6-10 mm, which will withstand such a load.
Step-by-step installation instructions:
- Cut the blanks a couple of millimeters smaller than the dimensions of the niches. The remaining clearance will be used for the seal. Do not forget to process the edges of the finished sheets so as not to scratch the inner sides of the walls and shelves;
- Before installing the panel, secure 4-8 metal corners in each niche so that the back side of the corner is flush with the end. This way you will place the wall evenly, and it will not fall out on the back side - the corners will hold it inside.
- After installing each sheet of chipboard, attach it from the inside. You can use rastex, canonical screed, plastic or metal corners. Read more about fastening methods.
The video below shows the homemade production of an inset back wall without the use of professional tools.
Butt-to-butt connection
This option is suitable when you need to install a back wall of several sheets on a two- or three-section cabinet or if the fiberboard sheets are narrow. In this case, the remaining edges of the sheets are screwed overlapping with self-tapping screws (see the first method).
How to install correctly:
- Attach the fiberboard sheets overlapping the edges of the cabinet.
- Use self-tapping screws at the joints. They are screwed between the fiberboard sheets on top of special plates that come with the cabinet, which will firmly press both sheets to the partition.
The plates can be replaced with ordinary metal washers or made independently. Stores also sell plastic connectors specifically for these purposes.
Connecting profile 2 meters long for the rear wall of the cabinet.
Branded fasteners
Furniture hardware companies often offer their own proprietary cabinet designs. They are easy to install, used in finished projects, and sold individually and in packages in hardware stores.
After installing the back wall of the cabinet, if it is placed in the center of the room, think about decor options.
Free-standing wardrobe, pros and cons
A cabinet or free-standing wardrobe has all the walls, including the inner one, as well as a roof. Even if such a cabinet is as high as the ceiling, there is still a distance of 2-3 centimeters between its roof and the ceiling. This is a separate structure that, if necessary, can be disassembled and assembled in another place.
PROS of a free-standing wardrobe
Regarding the advantages of such sliding wardrobes, we can say the following:
– a free-standing cabinet can be transported. Disassembling and reassembling such a cabinet will not be a big problem. If you live in a rented apartment, then it is better to choose these types of cabinets.
– a large selection of options. Such a cabinet can be decorated with photo printing, sandblasting or artistic matting. The doors of such a cabinet can be mirrored, which is especially good for small rooms.
CONS of a free-standing cabinet
Regarding the disadvantages of free-standing wardrobes, it is worth saying the following:
Dust accumulates on freestanding cabinets
- costs more. It takes more materials and fittings to make a free-standing cabinet; it has all the walls and a roof, so this option costs more.
– dust accumulates behind the cabinet and on top. Even if the closet is up to the ceiling, it still has a 2-3 cm gap from the ceiling to the closet, as well as about the same space to the walls, where a lot of dust is sure to accumulate.
Dust accumulates in the gap between the ceiling and the cabinet roof
So, as you can see, both options have their pros and cons, so you need to analyze the pros and cons and give your preference to the sliding wardrobe option that is most suitable for you.
The furniture factory Mikavol will make for you to order any type of wardrobe you like, taking into account all the individual characteristics of the place where you want to install it, as well as your personal wishes.
You will find more detailed information about the location of production and offices of the Mikavol company in the contacts section!
Experts' answers to readers' questions
In the “question-answer” section they often write about the back wall of the cabinet. Experts in the field of furniture production have selected the most popular ones and we publish them here.
There is an unpleasant smell from the back of the cabinet, what should I do?
In this situation, you can try 2 options:
- Treat the entire structure with Smelloff universal odor neutralizer. This product is safe for people and pets.
- If the first option does not help, you should replace the back panel with a new one.
Read about methods to get rid of unpleasant smell in the closet.
How to make a hole in a cabinet wall
Sometimes it becomes necessary to make a hole for an outlet or switch right inside the cabinet. In this case, the advice is:
- Depending on the shape and size of the cutout, you can make a hole using a jigsaw or a fine-toothed wood saw.
- The edges must be covered with a U-shaped edge made of plastic or PVC.
How to make a wall with your own hands?
Choose a material suitable for your design and cut a sheet of the desired shape (if the dimensions exceed the dimensions of the cabinet), or assemble a wall from several small sheets.
How to remove nails from the back wall?
- If the head of the nail sticks out on the surface, you can pull it out using side cutters or a small nail puller.
- If it is deep in the wall, first access the head using a wood punch, and then remove the nail with pliers. This method involves damage to the material and will have to be replaced in the future.
- When the hardboard back wall is overlapped, the best way to remove the nails is to carefully drive a flathead screwdriver between the fiberboard and the cabinet body, using light pressure to push the wall away. The nail heads will be visible and can be pulled out using the first method.
How to strengthen the back wall?
To strengthen the structure, it is enough to attach two narrow planks at the back crosswise, which will cross the entire surface of the cabinet.
There is mold in the closet, what should I do?
If the material is moisture resistant, you have 2 options:
- Use chemicals from the store: ALPA FONGIFLUID, Cillit Bang for black mold, DALI;
- Treat the surface with a folk remedy: brown soda or soda.
Antiseptics
If the material does not have moisture-resistant properties, it is better to replace it.
Installation of roller guides
When assembling cabinet furniture, roller guides are often installed, with the help of which the drawers are pulled out. At first glance, this is a simple process that even beginners can do. However, installation of fittings requires a careful and responsible approach, because the service life and functionality of the finished structure largely depend on it.
Features of roller guides
Roller guides consist of two metal rails with plastic wheels between them. Thanks to the rollers, both parts of the moving mechanism can move in different directions, dragging the box on the housing module with it.
Types of fasteners for hanging
There are many fasteners, and each of them is applicable, even the seemingly most outdated ones. Their main function is to securely hold the cabinet.
Kinds:
- Dowels. The most popular type of fastener used for wall cabinets. A pair of screw-dowels is available in the assortment of any hardware or construction store. They can also be included in a set of furniture. The most rational size of these is 8x80 mm. A galvanized coating is desirable, since the kitchen is a room with somewhat high humidity.
- Hooks. Like screws, they are also screwed into dowels and sold in pairs. In this case, there is no need to think about whether the screw head will fit into the hinge.
- Rail. A golden solution for hanging several cabinets in a row. The steel strip is secured with screws and dowels. The hangers on the cabinets are of a special design and adjustable. How to hang kitchen cabinets on a mounting rail is not difficult - the hooks of the adjustable fastening are hung on it. This design solution allows for the installation of wall-mounted cabinets evenly, even perfectly, regardless of the curvature of the walls.
- Wooden plugs with screws. This type of fastening is as old as the world, but many people still use it to this day.
When the cabinets are attached with screws or hooks, and there is a kitchen apron made of tiles on the wall, it is better to hang the cabinets on a wooden strip, the thickness of which should correspond to the thickness of the tile along with a layer of tile adhesive - then the upper elements will hang parallel to the wall.
When the fastening is selected, the cabinets are assembled, and the hanging remains. If the walls are too uneven, like the corners, then you should think about properly preparing the walls.
What do you need:
- Putty or plaster.
- A necessary tool.
- Complete the installation of sockets and lamps.
- Put up wallpaper.
Correct installation of upper cabinets, first of all, requires equally correct markings. Comfort of use and proper design will depend on this.
Markup:
- The distance between the table top and the bottom edge of the wall furniture is measured. You need to measure very accurately, using a tape measure. The marking itself is done with a sharpened pencil or a thin marker. You can tighten the painting thread by leveling it using a level. The top edge of the cabinets is also marked.
- The cabinet is placed against the wall for accurate measurements, and, as an option, the holes for the dowels are marked. It’s easier to take simple measurements so as not to carry heavy cabinets on yourself - you’ll need a partner for this. If it doesn’t work out any other way, then to make work easier, you need to remove the shelves from the cabinets and remove the doors.
If there are wall cabinets, then you need to start with them.
Accessories for rotating shelves
Rotating shelf accessories include:
- upper and lower fixation of the rotation axis;
- the axis of rotation, which is a telescopic metal tube, that is, the height of the pole can be changed according to the dimensions of the cabinet;
- flange mounting bracket.
Installation of a rotating shelf
To install the rotating shelf correctly, you must:
- choose a place to attach the rotation axis so that the installed shelf can move freely inside the cabinet;
- secure the upper and lower connecting structures (simply screwed to the lower and upper parts of the cabinet, respectively);
- install the pin by inserting the pipe into the fixed flanges;
- screw the shelf support to the board;
- install the shelf itself.
The rotating shelf is installed correctly
Therefore, when choosing accessories for shelves, you should proceed from the material from which they are made and the method of fastening the product. In stores you can find many different options for overhead, mortise supports, sliding and rotating mechanisms, the independent installation of which does not cause any difficulties.
Fiberboard
The back wall, made of wood-fiber boards, is installed on the assembled furniture body. Its thickness is most often 4 mm.
This “backdrop” is attached in a lying position with self-tapping screws or a construction stapler. If a wall made of this material is mounted vertically, then it is first divided into parts and assembled in stages.
Fiberboard is made from low-quality round wood or wood waste - sawdust and shavings. They are processed into fiber mass. Various chemicals are added to it in order to increase the water resistance and strength of the future material. Next, it is sent to casting machines to increase humidity, and then under a hot press.
Flaws
This material has much more disadvantages.
- The strength of fiberboard structures, especially high ones, is very limited.
- A limited range of colors - no more than 5 shades.
- The material does not withstand high humidity, as often only one side is painted or laminated.
- Installation requires a lot of free space, which is physically impossible in small rooms.
- Often the wall has a persistent unpleasant odor
. - Due to the overlapping installation, the material is visible from the end of the furniture, which spoils the aesthetic appearance. Attaching tall wardrobes to the wall becomes more difficult.
Kinds
Bedside tables are presented in numerous types on the market
They differ in different parameters, so you should evaluate all factors to make the right choice. Many people, in the process of choosing this design, pay attention solely to cost and appearance, but you should also make sure that it is safe for use in residential premises, as well as stable and comfortable
By shape
Designer bedside tables can have different shapes, and it is important to choose a product that will fit well into the space allocated for it. Designs can be presented in different forms:
- A square modern bedside table is considered a traditional option for any room. It can be made in a classic style or in other different modern options. This model will look great in almost any bedroom, and is considered comfortable for constant use. It is universal and practical, and it also fits a microwave or other small appliances;
- round cabinet - considered the ideal solution for a small room. A round bedside table can be installed not only directly next to the bed, but also in the corners of the room, and at the same time it will occupy space that is usually not used for any purposes;
- non-standard shapes - such unusual designs can be rectangular or pyramid-shaped. A broken-shaped bedside table for a bedroom is considered in demand. These products are usually chosen only for decorative purposes, as they look beautiful and elegant in any room.
The round bedside design is considered the most popular, as it does not take up much space and looks great in any interior.
Original form
Round
Square
By size
The sizes of these interior items can be different, so it is possible to choose bedside tables that are perfect for the selected area in the room. When determining the size of the structure, you should take into account its purpose, installation location and the dimensions of the room itself.
If the bedroom is a large room, then a large model can be installed in it, equipped with numerous shelves, stands and other elements. In order for stylish bedside tables to be comfortable for use, they cannot be smaller than standard sizes, these include:
- height - this parameter is considered the most important for these structures. If the height is excessive, it will be difficult to use it for different purposes. It is best if this indicator is equal to the height of the bed itself, which creates a symmetrical and balanced appearance of the entire room. The optimal height is considered to be 60 cm. The higher the product, the more difficult it will be to use;
- width - this parameter depends on the dimensions of the bed. If there is a single or one-and-a-half bed, then the optimal width of the bedside table is from 40 cm to 60 cm. If a double or huge bed is installed, then the width of the structure should vary from 60 to 100 cm. A width of 30 cm is considered not very suitable if you plan to install large lighting fixture or use the product for permanent maintenance of various large objects;
- depth - it depends on what the product is intended for. If a conventional structure is used to store various items, then it is desirable that its depth exceed 50 cm.
When determining the dimensions, the dimensions and other parameters of the bed next to which the product is installed are usually taken into account.
According to the material of manufacture
Bedside tables, shown in the photo below in numerous types, are made using a variety of materials. The appearance and parameters of the structures depend on this parameter. The most popular products are:
Additionally, you can choose products made of glass, metal or a combination of materials, and they may be upholstered in eco-leather or fabric.
Wooden
Chipboard
MDF
By placement method
Bedside tables, made in a classic style or in other designs, can be floor-standing, wall-mounted or wall-mounted. The first options are considered the most popular. Their location depends on the size of the products themselves and the entire room.
Floor products can be installed along the wall, in a corner or in the center of the room, if possible. Round products on wheels can be moved around the bedroom if necessary.
Floor
Wall-mounted
Other types of fasteners
To hang several rather heavy cabinets on self-tapping screws already screwed into the wall, you can attach a strip to their back surface. This flat piece has a slot that resembles a keyhole in configuration. It is selected so that the diameter of the widest part of the hole is slightly larger than the head of the screw. The narrow part of the hole should be slightly larger than the diameter of the thread. When hanging the cabinet, the head of the self-tapping screw enters the wide part of the slot, and then moves under weight into the narrow zone, ensuring reliable fastening.
If you need to fix a fairly heavy object on the wall, made with plasterboard sheathing, then you can first make a hole with a diameter of ≈ 3 cm in the area of the fastening room, through which a solution can be introduced into the empty space, allowing you to create a strong bridge to the wall.
You can simplify the process if you correctly calculate the length of the screw. In order for the kitchen wall cabinet to be firmly fixed, several values are added up: the thickness of the drywall, the gap from the finish to the wall, the layer of plaster, the depth of the hole in the wall itself.
Assembly tools
Any furniture, as a rule, comes to the client in disassembled form. You can hire furniture makers to assemble it, or you can do it yourself.
Required tools:
- Drill and drill bits. High-quality furniture, however, does not require any drilling - everything is done at the factory precisely and correctly, but in some cases this still happens.
- Screwdrivers (screwdriver). If you don’t have this power tool, then you can get by with screwdrivers, although this will slow down the work.
- Hammer. It is difficult to hammer reinforced concrete walls manually, and an electric drill is a weak assistant in this matter. Holes in the walls will be needed to secure the upper elements of the kitchen.
- Hacksaw or pendulum saw (jigsaw). This tool is needed to cut a window in the countertop under the sink.
- Hex key. They use it to tighten special furniture euroscrews - confirmats. However, very often these keys come with furniture.
- Level. Ensures that upper cabinets are hung correctly.
- Ruler.
- Square.
- Hammer.
