How to trim a board with a hand-held circular saw

Device for cutting boards with a circular saw

This guide is very easy to work with. The base with the ruler is fixed to a workpiece, for example, to chipboard. You can fix this by using several options. In the first method, part of the cut sheet will be located on the side of the saw blade; in the second method, under the base on which the guide ruler is fixed.

The length of the sheet is 2 marks on the side, which corresponds to the specified cutting methods, at the distance where the cut is located. The distance between marks should be maximum. It is important to consider the thickness of the disc. The base of the ruler is mounted on two signs and secured with clamps. The depth of the clamping jaws should ensure their installation so that at the end of the cut the saw can move freely from the letter.

If the guide ruler is long, then the cross-section is not very convenient. Therefore, it is advisable to make a design that is shorter. For example, for cabinets that are 60cm wide, you will need to make a guide that is 1m long.

READ Electric Chain Saw Makita Uc3030a Video

Such devices are only suitable for working with materials that have a large width and length. You cannot cut a board into flat rods of this design.

Dissolving the first board after adjusting the position of the saw blade

If the task of splitting a thick board into two completely equal parts is not worth it, that’s one thing. But if identical elements are required, then the width of the cut part should be perfectly adjusted. When all the settings have been made, you can start cutting. The board is passed through the circular saw twice, on both sides.

PHOTO: YouTube.com The second side is run through, after which the cutting will be completed

How to make a simple guide and removable device with your own hands?

Diagram of the bearings of the circular saw assembly.

It makes sense to make a simple reference book. To make cuts with a portable circular saw, you can purchase an expensive guide at the building's supermarket, or make a few homemade projects in a workshop if you need to cut a large number of sheets. However, you should know that there is a simpler solution - to make a device from scraps that are not used.

A simple homemade miter template for a circular saw

To make your own saw manual, you need to select a factory edge strip of plywood or hardboard 25-30 cm wide. The strip is fixed along the cutting line so that the base of the tool moves along the flat edge. If foam padding is used to protect the saw blade, it must have cutouts for the jaws.

You can also make a cutting device for this type of saw. A clean and even intersection in some cases is quite difficult to do with the introduction of a circular saw. It's almost impossible to fully control the tool, and pieces of material fly off more often than not, leaving behind chips and jagged edges. So it makes sense to try to make a cross-cut design out of a few pieces of wood and an angle of aluminum.

Trimming device for circular saw

It is not difficult to make a trimming device for a circular saw in your workshop, having in your hands a steel rod 250 mm long, 6 mm thick and 18 mm wide. This device will help you cut off the ends of workpieces on a circular table at different angles. The first thing you need is to make a slot (groove) along the entire length of the circular table; the depth and width of the slot (groove) must correspond to the dimensions of the metal rod. Place the slot away from the saw blade, but no closer than 40mm to the saw blade, the slot should be parallel to the saw blade. An affordable and reliable way to make a slot (groove) is to use a stop and a router with a radial cutter. In the absence of such tools, a hand-held circular saw will help make cuts, and a chisel will help remove wood from inside the cuts. Note: It is important that the slot (groove) ideally matches the dimensions of the rod in width and height.

How to make a manual template yourself?

Guide bar for a circular saw - this can be made from improvised means by cutting a flat sheet of wood.

When you need to make long cuts with a similar saw, you will need to spend a significant amount of time to make all the measurements necessary to set the mowing line guide and markings exactly to match the width of the base of the structure.

To simplify this procedure, you need to cut a template from fiberboard that is equal to the width from the edge of the tool to the inner edge of the saw blade. The template is then cut to the length of the tool base. To use the template, you need to align its edge with the cutting mark in the product, and on the other side attach a straight guide and secure it with a clamp.

You then need to repeat this procedure on the second cut mark on the other end of the workpiece that is being cut. Such designs can be made for circular saws or electric saw blades.

How to make a cut at an angle of 45 degrees?

This angle is found in the manufacture of various products. Let's start the cutting work. First, the saw blade moves ninety degrees. Depending on the model, there is a bolt with a red handle on the side of the sole that needs to be loosened.

After which the sole is shifted at an angle of forty-five degrees and the bolt is fixed back. We take a piece of chipboard as a blank. We fix it with clamps on the tabletop so that the part that we will cut off extends beyond the table.

Afterwards the ruler is set. It is usually included with the circular saw. The saw has 2 marks zero and 45. We will cut off 30 millimeters, for which we combine the three on the ruler with the mark forty-five on the sole. Then you need to tighten the bolt that secures the ruler.

Next, the sole must be positioned so that the ruler rests against the edge of the workpiece. The saw is started and after it is fully untwisted, pressing the ruler tightly against the edge of the workpiece, they move in the forward direction.

How to make a crosscut from a manual circular saw at home

Hello dear readers and subscribers of Andrey PLA's blog. In this article I will tell you how to make a cross-cutting device from a hand-held circular saw for your home purposes, while spending a minimum of money on production. A hand-held circular saw is a good helper in your household, with which you can do “very big things”!

I consider it inappropriate to focus attention on the term “circular”, since everyone already has first-hand knowledge of what this device is, and there are enough thematic materials on my blog. I will try to tell you what saw and convey as much useful information as possible for a visual presentation.

pendulum;
combined;
With a broach.

The pendulum trim is the following design. The basis of any machine is the bed. The table is fixed on it, which in turn is made on a rotating mechanism with a ruler. This device solves the problem of setting the cutting angle with its adjustment.

The cutting angle can be adjusted by moving the work table to the plane of the bed. The saw element is strengthened by a lever and spring-loaded by a hinge. Using a pendulum, the saw moves in the vertical direction.

As for the combined model option, the cutting angle can be changed if necessary in two directions. The device is the same as in a pendulum saw, only an additional hinge is added to the design. As for changing the cutting angle in the horizontal plane, it can be changed in the horizontal direction, which in turn is opposite to the mounted drive.

a saw with a broach makes it possible to move the cutting element both around the axis of the hinge mechanism and in the direct direction along the cut. This was achieved thanks to the installed guides (pictured below).

For convenience on a cross-cutting machine, operators use a special device for cross-cutting on a circular saw, which is called a miter box. A simple design, which consists of a tray for boards, a clamping piece of plywood or a second material, clamping fixing elements (clamps, etc.). How does this device work? I will try to answer this banal question simply and clearly.

The board is placed in a tray and pressed against a sheet of chipboard. Fixed with a clamp and a hand saw, circular saw, or grinder, the workpieces are sprayed through special side slots. Often, a miter box is used to cut material at an angle of 45-90 degrees in home workshops on Tsirkulyarki. Using this device, you can quickly cut the board into a pallet or board.

After all the information, you have an idea of what cross-cutting is and why it is needed. Next, I will tell you how to make a cross-cut trim using a hand- held circular saw using scrap materials with your own hands.

The base of the structure was a box made of chipboard. It has a “U” shape. Confirmants are knocked down and fastened together. To prevent this shelf from moving, it is attached to the work table (workbench) with clamps.

The base under the dust is screwed onto the shelf from above. Fastening is also carried out by confirmants. We ensure that the planes are perpendicular, since the saw blade will be aligned along the edge.

I make sure the sole is aligned along the edge. This will prevent shifting and fidgeting. We screw strips of chipboard onto the sides with self-tapping screws. In this way, the positioning of the sole is achieved.

the saw is fixed with clamps and clips. You can make wing clamps. This is the device for cross-cutting on a circular saw in this version. This device is popularly called “Foreman”.

Next to the base to the table we fix the “table” base. The only drawback is the reduced cutting depth of 15mm. Therefore, you have to place the profile as close as possible to the saw blade.

After making a test cut, we obtain a cutting line based on the stop. Thus, I was able to construct a circular cutter with my own hands. This design of the device copes with the task one hundred percent. If you still can’t design this type of equipment or simply don’t have time to do it, you can use the services of renting a circular saw with a trimmer at affordable prices in specialized workshops.

Another good tool for working with wood is a thickness planer. What is it? It can be divided into two types - manual and in the form of a full-fledged thickness planer. As a rule, the manual version is needed only to transfer data from the drawing to real material and workpieces.

As for the thickness planer, it, in turn, is more functional. In addition to transferring information, you can carry out full processing of workpieces. Such equipment is purchased by furniture factories and can also be found in everyday life during the construction of private facilities. This is what a surface planer looks like with a circular saw and a trimmer, I attach a photo below:

As for the usual planer device, it consists of three parts. A supporting stand with a dimensional ruler, a clamping device and devices for applying markings to the part. They are usually made from hardwood material.

Combination miter saw - both lengthwise and crosswise

ImhoDom › Forums › hands from shoulders › Combined miter saw - both along and across

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The science

Manufacturers of such tools rightly expect that they should be constantly used not only by workers in specialized workshops, but also by household users. Therefore, there are a significant number of modifications of combination miter saws on the market of varying power, capabilities and prices. Nevertheless, structurally all these devices are approximately the same, and consist of the following components:

The bed is made of high-strength aluminum alloys and has a developed surface for securely securing the saw to a workbench or table.

A rotary table with which you can angularly move a workpiece to a given angle.

Adjustable guides ensure adjustment of the unit for processing workpieces of the required width.

A tool head equipped with a measuring scale that can be adjusted to the required cutting angle.

An electric motor on the axis of which a saw blade is mounted.

Pulling mechanism. Saws with broaching of the source material allow you to process workpieces of increased width.

Measuring laser head, with which the accuracy of the cut is controlled.

Control panel (some versions of combined miter saws provide a soft start function for the engine).

Saw blades with different diameters, thicknesses and tooth pitches are used as replaceable technological equipment, with smaller pitches designed for cutting non-metallic workpieces.

Among the manufacturers of combined miter saws are foreign brands Bosch, Metabo, DeWolt, Makita, as well as domestic brands Enkor, Zubr, Interskol (the latter produces products of joint Chinese-Russian production), etc.

The advantage of sawing logs with a chainsaw

Spraying onto boards can be done using tools such as an electric chainsaw and additional accessories designed to simplify the work. When choosing certain products, you need to focus on the amount of work expected. Stationary sawmills are expensive and are purchased only if you plan to organize a business to create boards.

READ Cutting board which side to cut on

The most accessible tool for the job is a chainsaw. Such devices have several advantages over electric ones:

the chainsaw can be used anywhere, regardless of the availability of an electrical outlet;
the tool is suitable for working in conditions of high humidity;
professional chainsaws are significantly more powerful than electric ones;
You can use the chainsaw continuously for an hour.

To cut logs into boards, a special frame is used together with a chainsaw, which is attached to the device and allows you to create boards of the same thickness. A device is also needed to secure the log in one position. In addition, you will also need a guide.

HOW TO cut boards smoothly with a HAND circular saw!!!

Since household gasoline saws are NOT designed for heavy loads, you should use professional tools when sawing logs. When choosing, pay attention to devices with a power of more than 7 horsepower. Before work, the fixed frame is adjusted in accordance with the selected width of the boards. To create a frame, you can use legs from a school desk or metal corners.

The process of making an end cutting board

Today I want to share with you how I make end cutting boards.
The process is not fast, but extremely exciting. You need to start by selecting the material for the board. The options here may be different, the main thing is that the material must be dry. Naturally, the cutting board must be strong and durable, so I choose hardwood: oak, ash, beech (you can also use exotic species, but the cost of such material is much higher).

Having selected the appropriate material, you can begin processing it. First, the boards need to be planed (planed) on a planer (if you don’t have one, you can get by with a regular electric planer, but it will take many times longer), that is, give them a base - two planes forming a right angle.

Then I run the blanks in a planer and get a calibrated and even blank. This is needed for further sawing on a circular saw. We cut the blanks into plots (boards, slats, whatever you call it) of equal thickness and length.

Next you need to glue it all together into a shield. After sawing, the plots have two planed (planed) planes, which is what we use to glue them together. For high-quality gluing, you need to create good pressure, for this I use pipe clamps (if there are none, ordinary ones will do, but they are not very convenient to use). We use PVA glue for wood, this is what I have.

An indicator of good gluing is uniform squeezing of glue along the entire length of the seam.

At this point you need to pause and let the shield dry, I usually leave the shield to dry overnight.

When the shield is dry, you can continue making the end cutting board. After gluing, the resulting shield is calibrated in a thicknessing machine, the shield becomes even and smooth, and therefore suitable for further manipulation.

Now you need to saw it. This can be done with a hand-held circular saw, a band saw, or even a jigsaw. I do this on a stationary circular saw. Here the thickness of our future cutting board is set. I set the thickness to 35 mm or 40 mm (you should always leave a margin of 2-3 mm for further processing), all depending on the size of the product.

After sawing, you need to glue the resulting workpieces again; naturally, we glue them with the end surface up. We place the workpieces on their sides and apply glue to one side of each plot (do not forget to glue the “sacrificial block” to one of the sides of the workpiece - this will avoid chipping when planing in a planer). It is convenient to apply the glue using a roller to smooth out the wallpaper, so the glue can be easily distributed evenly. At this stage you will need clamps again. The glue came out evenly, which means the gluing will be successful. And again you need to leave the workpiece to dry overnight.

When the glue has dried, you will need a thickness planer again. We calibrate the board to the required thickness, and we obtain a smooth workpiece ready for further processing.

Next comes sanding, for this I use an orbital sander. Sanding is not a quick task, so you need to be patient. First I use coarse-grit sandpaper, gradually moving to fine-grit sandpaper. The result can be determined by touch - the board will become very smooth and acquire a slight gloss. The corners of the board can be rounded or left as is. Here whoever likes it.

The end cutting board is almost ready, but the final procedures still need to be done. The board must be treated with mineral oil and coated with wax to make it resistant to moisture. The oil can be bought at any pharmacy (vaseline oil), you can also use flaxseed oil. The main thing is not to use other edible oils; if you do this, the board will eventually smell like rancid oil.

We apply just mineral oil as the first layer, rub in in a circular motion and let the oil soak in for six hours. Apply the second layer of oil with the addition of natural beeswax; the mixture must be applied while heated. The mixture should be prepared in a ratio of 4:1 (4 parts oil and 1 wax). Let it sit for another 6 hours and remove any remaining wax from the surface.

The last stage is screwing the legs. Legs are needed to ensure ventilation of the board from the bottom side.

That's all! The end cutting board is fully prepared to serve for a long time and bring you the joy of cooking.

Making this product requires some skill and patience. Try it! You will definitely achieve success. Good luck!

Long sawing technique

The most difficult stage of the process is making the first cut. To do this you need:

install a leading ruler, which consists of two boards that are fastened together at an angle of 90 degrees;
after this, it is necessary to place the sawn log on the supports and fix it;
then it is important to check whether the log is level;
at the next stage it is necessary to secure the leading ruler to the supports using self-tapping screws;
After this, you can start creating the first cut.

How to cut a board straight

How smart and quick-witted our people are!

Sergey Burkov:

How to unravel a 3-meter board so that both resulting halves are, for example, 10 mm thick

BANDIT#:

you explain it like to schoolchildren, with a countersunk head, etc.

COMPUTER:

What if
the board is 2 meters long?
How are you going to put her on the butt? Nikolay Sitkov:

Ha, I’m NOT smart enough for a hacksaw, although I’ve encountered this problem more than once. That’s a good thing.

How so?:

Christmas trees, keep your fingers, bro. I wouldn't do that)))

Workshop on the balcony:

Simple, cheap and cheerful :))). like

Mike VIZ:

Hello, you have already seen this circular in your frame several times. Is it AEG or another company? Can shoot a review, I choose myself dust, I would like to hear advice from an experienced person on what to pay attention to.

Advantages and disadvantages of a homemade device

Like any other device, a homemade miter saw, obtained from a manual circular saw, has its own characteristic features and characteristics. Some of them are positive, while the other part is negative. One way or another, it is necessary to take into account both those and other signs.

Pros.

The first and most important advantage of a homemade miter saw is significant financial savings. So, buying a ready-made instrument will cost you quite a lot (the average cost of a device is 10,000 rubles), but making an instrument with your own hands is, from a financial point of view, accessible to almost everyone.

Another advantage of a device made by hand is the fact that all saw parameters (for example, cutting depth, rotation speed, power, length and width of the base) are selected individually. Thus, this device will be more effective for performing personalized work than a purchased unit.

In addition, having made your own saw, you will be well acquainted with all the component parts, and this, in turn, means that in the event of any breakdowns or malfunctions, you can easily repair the tool.

Minuses.

Often, available household items are used as starting materials for making a miter saw with your own hands. It is worth noting that such materials are not always of high quality. That is why the life and quality of service of a home-made device can be very short and low.

In order to make a unit, you must have at least minimal technical knowledge and skills. A beginner will not be able to cope with a task of this kind.

A homemade miter cutter is not suitable for work that requires a high-power saw. If you need just such a unit, then to manufacture it you will need professional parts, extensive knowledge and a fairly large amount of time. Thus, it is easier to buy a ready-made device.

A crosscut that you make yourself from a circular saw will not have the proper safety indicators and may be traumatic during operation.

For more information on how to make a miter saw from a circular saw, watch the video below.

Features of sawing logs using a chainsaw

Creating additional equipment for sawing logs is quite simple:

To create a support, a frame is used, which can be created from the legs of a school desk. The most suitable pipes are with a square cross-section of 20 × 20 mm.
When constructing the frame, it is necessary to create 2 clamps and secure the crossbar at one end. This element must have holes for tie bolts. A protrusion for the tire is created in the middle.
In order to cut a log lengthwise, it is necessary to construct a support frame, the width of which must be at least 8 cm in length.
For ease of operation, a handle should be welded to the frame.
Before carrying out work, you must carefully check whether the frame is securely fastened to the tire.

Using a homemade tool is quite simple. Before sawing, you need to install 2 sawhorses - they will be used as a support for the log. In addition, a metal strip or flat board , which will serve as a guiding element.

Lightweight nozzle

Such devices are often used, but they should only be used when creating boards for fences or sheds. This is due to the fact that the attachment is secured to the tire only on one side.

Professional equipment

Now let's talk about professional equipment. Let's consider the cross-cutting saw ZUBR ZPTP-255-1800. The tool is used for cutting wooden parts and thin-walled metal. Why combined? This is because it can be used to both trim workpieces and work like a circular machine.

Main advantages of the model:

Mobility;
Compactness;
Functionality;
Safety system.

This machine combines a crosscut and a circular saw at the same time. The adjustable head position allows for high quality cuts. The machine allows you to make longitudinal cuts at any given angle. The equipment is equipped with a locking mechanism for turning on the drive and raising the protective casing. This model has the ability to connect an industrial vacuum cleaner to keep the workplace clean.

You can buy a circular cross-cutting machine for around 15 – 20 thousand rubles.

Another good option from all the gray mass of equipment is the Makita MLT100 table miter saw.

It is used both in everyday life and in professional production in workshops and workshops. The design of the machine allows it to be moved on a special trolley and can be easily mounted in a designated place on a workbench. The sliding table allows you to work with large workpieces. The table can be rotated both to the side and forward. The long service life of this equipment is increased due to the high quality of parts and materials used during assembly.

Allows you to make cuts both vertically and at a specified angle. The high precision of cutting parts is due to the presence of clamps, guides, scales with degrees and a ruler. The equipment combines a cross-cutting machine and a circular saw at the same time.

A separate advantage is the presence of an engine speed stabilization system, which in turn plays an important role during the initial start-up of equipment.

Electric brake included. There is a connector for connecting a dust removal device, useful for large volumes of work.

Setting up a circular saw before work

Before you start sawing, you need to install the blade and make sure it is firmly in place. The casing should open and return to its original position without any resistance. It is also worth checking whether the riving device is positioned correctly. After this, run the dust for 10 seconds in idle mode to make sure that it is working properly.

To set up a circular saw, you need to adjust the desired position of the guide pin and cutting blade using a caliper. When checking the position of the teeth in front and behind the disc, the difference should not be more than 0.05 mm. You also need to install the riving knife and blade so that they are on the same mowing line. Special washers are used to fine-tune them. To ensure that the tool and table vibrate less, you need to tighten the mounting bolts well.

Correct flooring

It was a beautiful July day. I decided to make the flooring under the canopy. In other words, there was already a roof of some kind, and I wanted to walk on a flat wooden floor. You can, of course, level and compact the ground, but the choice was made in favor of wood.

I’m not good at working with cubes of wood (of course, I can multiply the length, width and height to get the volume), I made the calculation simpler, since boards in our markets are sold by the piece, so I counted in pieces.

Based on the fact that boards are usually sold six meters long, I decided to make the flooring three meters wide. Then simple arithmetic, knowing the length and width of the boards, it was not difficult to obtain the required amount of building materials.

Anyway, enough of the lyrics, let's get down to business. The boards have been delivered (I bought them from the market, as usual, I chose something simpler, in other words, cheaper), the joists are installed, all that remains is to fill the boards.

Laziness is the engine of progress, so in order to work less I sawed boards with a jigsaw. But I regretted spending money on the hammer, but I found a beautiful hammer in the store.

Correct flooring of boards ">

What could be easier, put the board down and score. I already tried on the first board, cut it and nailed it. But then there was a break, a neighbor came in. I must say that my neighbor is a wise and experienced person. At first he praised him, well done, and then asked: “You, neighbor, know which side of the board should be laid?” . And I answered: “Wide, of course, it’s not right to put it on the edge.”

“Here, of course, you are right,” said the neighbor, “but there is one nuance, how will you place the basin so that you can walk on it, as it should stand, or, after all, upside down”? Of course, I liked the comparison of the board with the basin, all that remains is to find out what the neighbor means.

To clarify all the subtleties, the neighbor was offered a chair, a decanter of kvass appeared on the table, and as a result, the break in work extended until the decanter ran out.

I won’t go into the whole conversation over kvass, otherwise we’ve reached space, but I understood the essence of his question about the basin.

Of course, if you buy wood that has been properly dried and stored, then you are unlikely to have to think about which side to lay the boards on the flooring. Otherwise, you need to understand that the board will “lead” over time. It will either bend or “helicopter” it, it all depends on how the tree trunk was sawed.

The most annoying thing is that the nails are unlikely to hold such a board in place, and if the board is laid incorrectly, then later it will begin to “play.” As one of the greats said: “It is better to see once than to read a hundred times.”

Correct flooring of boards ">

This is how a board can bend over time. If you look closely, you can understand that the so-called “annual rings” are trying to straighten out. Therefore, in order not to make a “trough”, it is necessary to position the board in such a way that over time, if the board begins to bend, we end up with something like an umbrella.

In this case, the board will still rest on its edges and will not wobble (play, wobble). Plus one more point: water that gets on such a board will drain from it.

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What can you do with a hand-held circular saw?

Manual circular saws are suitable for performing a whole list of jobs:

trimming several wooden blanks at once, which lie in the same plane;
trimming wide boards for which pendulum dust cannot be used (you will need a parallel fence)
trimming boards when laying floors;
trimming workpieces at an angle (you can use a guide or do without it)
longitudinal spray of workpieces at an angle;
sampling a quarter in a board or timber;
cutting sheet materials with the introduction of a guide;
cutting organic glass and plastic;
using a hand saw as a stationary one by mounting it to a table.

How to make a cut at an angle of 45 degrees?

How to cut a board smoothly with a circular saw

Unlike a pendulum saw, which is stationary, a circular saw is more difficult to make an even cut. This will not be a problem if the board or beam is narrow, but when sawing a wide workpiece or when making longitudinal cuts, you need to know how to make the cut as precise as possible. To do this, you need to follow the following sequence of actions:

There should NOT be anything underneath the piece of material you will be sawing. The circular saw blade should not be cutting anything else. For example, we would never place a board on a concrete floor - use a sawhorse or a cutting machine table instead.
Mark the line along which the saw blade will go. Use a tape measure, ruler or square for this.
Adjust the cutting depth. The blade should barely protrude beyond the workpiece. For example, if the thickness of the workpiece is 40 mm, the cutting depth should be 45-50 mm.
Check the condition of the protective cover. It should rise gently when the saw is lowered onto the workpiece, and immediately close the working part when it is raised.
As you begin to cut, look at the front right edge of the blade and align it with the mark on the material.
Look at the right kerf guide of the circular saw for right angle cuts, and the left one for 45 degree cuts.
Start cutting the material. Keep an eye on the guide at all times to ensure an even spray.
Keep the saw blade flat on the material at all times.
Push the dust hard enough to cut it, but don't push it too hard to overload the motor. The hardest woods should be cut with minimal force.
After finishing cutting, make sure that the safety guard returns to the closed position.

Preparing the workplace for work

You need to remove all unnecessary items from your desktop. There should be no tools, keys or consumables. In addition, you need to ensure a free approach to the table. The floor in the work area must be dry to avoid accidental slipping. The machine must be grounded.

READ Ignition for Saw Taiga 245

There are also requirements for the operator’s work clothes. Clothes need to be tucked in so that there are no flapping ends. If you have long hair, tie it up and hide it under a hat. Wear safety glasses and a respirator. It is recommended to use hearing protection as the noise level can be quite high when using a circular saw.

Before you start dusting, you need to check it for defects in the saw blade and make sure that it is fastened properly. Check to see if the riving knife is installed correctly and then check that the guard is working properly.

If the saw has a short cable, you may need an extension cord so that you can comfortably move around the work area. It is advisable to use a circular saw with a soft start function so that the tool does NOT jerk when starting.

Technology and equipment for trimming lumber

Work pages

The content of the work

TECHNOLOGY AND EQUIPMENT FOR CUTTING TIMBER
Trimming (trimming) is the formation of the end surfaces (ends) of lumber by dividing them transversely for the purpose of:

-removal of defective areas;

- obtaining a given length of pm.

In this regard, a distinction is made between preliminary and final trimming.

Preliminary trimming

carried out with the aim of removing obvious defects and defects of wood on the surface of the pm (pf). These are, as a rule, pointed (pintail), curved and facet boards.

Final trimming

performed to form specified (standard) dimensions of PM along the length. The final formation of the length is carried out, as a rule, after drying.

Cleaning the butt ends is also practiced.

pm. When the operator (end-cutter) doubts the depth of the spread of a processing defect or a defect in the wood from the butt end of the board, he “cleans” it: he saws off a piece of board 3...5 cm long, assesses the condition of the “opened” end and makes a decision on the final trimming of the butt end. end of the board.

Nominal length dimensions pm:

- 1. 6.5 m with a gradation of 0.25 m - for the domestic market;

— 1.5...6.3 m with a gradation of 0.3 m.

Maximum deviations from the nominal dimensions of lumber along the length are +50 mm; - 25 mm.

In sawmill production, single-saw cross-cutting machines and multi-saw cross-cutting units are used for cross-cutting lumber. Single-saw cross-cutting machines can be divided into four types: with a fixed support, pendulum, balancing and with linear movement of the saw. (Fig. 13.1). The classification of machines according to their design allows us to distinguish two main types among them: with a movable and a fixed support. In machines with a movable support, designed for precision and preliminary trimming, the feed is carried out by the support onto a stationary workpiece.

The boards are trimmed using positional and passing methods. In the first case, when performing a technological operation, the material being processed is motionless, and the cutting tool is fed. In the second case, the transverse division of lumber occurs during their movement.

Positional cross-cutting machines

Fig. 13.1. Schemes of machines for positional trimming of lumber and blanks:

a- pendulum; b and d - with straight forward extension of the saw; c-balanced.

Single-saw cross-cutting machines with a fixed caliper are part of the cross-cutting units and lines. Pendulum cross-cutting machines and machines with linear movement of the saw are rarely used in sawmills; they are widely used in cutting and woodworking shops.

Balancing cross-cutting machines are most widely used in the production of lumber.

Position type installations

are equipped with single-saw circular saws of various models: balancing (type TsKB), pendulum (type TsME), with straight-line saw extension (type TsPA and ST), the technical specifications of which are given in Table 1.

Fig. 13.2. Balanced cross-cutting machine TsKB40-01:

-general form;
b
- hydrokinematic scheme; 1-fence; 2-table; 3-guide ruler; 4-bed; 5.6-electric motors; 7-pedal control; 8-board; 9-saw; 10,14-hydraulic distributors; 11-frame; 12,16-hydraulic cylinders; 13-hydraulic pump; 15-throttle; 17-guide; 18-shaft; 19 V-belt transmission.

TsKB type machines with pedal operation of the saw and its movement during the cutting process using a hydraulic drive are designed for sawing boards up to 300...400 mm wide with a saw diameter of 500...700 mm. They are most widespread in sawmills that practice the positional method of trimming.

Fig. 13.3. Cross-cutting machine with straight saw motion:

1-bed; 2saw; 3-clip; 4-hydraulic cylinder; 5-pedal.

Fig. 13.4. Scheme of the pendulum cross-cutting machine TsME-3A:

Table 13.1. Technical details of machines for positional cutting of PM.

Double-sided positional trimming machines

Fig. 13.5. Scheme of double-sided trimming installation:

1-belt conveyor transporting boards from the edger; 2 hatches; 3-cross-cut machines; 4-cross-cut roller table; 6-beam table with 5 brackets on both sides; 6-roller cross-cutting table; 7-belt conveyor for transporting trimmed boards.

From the belt conveyor 1, the boards are transferred to the cross-cutting table 3, from which workers move them to the cross-cutting table 5. The trimmers determine the location of the cut at the butt end of the board, and then at the top end, and trim the board using saws 3, which are lifted by pneumatic cylinders. Before trimming, the worker installs the butt end of the board along swinging measuring stops mounted in the fender 7. To remove trimmed boards, the installation is equipped with a pneumatically driven ejector (Fig. 1). The throughput of the installation is 10…12 boards per minute. Prism is determined by timing data. On UL_Tsu 8...15 boards per minute.

Cross-cutting machines of the pass-through type: slashers and trimmers

Slasher-

This is a multi-saw installation for cross cutting of lumber, in which the saw shafts are installed permanently. The sawn material is fed to the circular saws by a cross-chain conveyor with stops.

Trimmer

is a multi-saw installation for cross-cutting lumber, in which each saw mechanism comes into operation at the operator’s command. The saw carriage is moved onto the material to be trimmed by a chain conveyor with stops.

Cross-cutting machines of pass-through type: slasher and trimmer

Fig. 13.8. Diagram of the three-saw cross-cutting machine TsT3-2M:

1-end stop; 2-butt saw; 3,4-dimensional stops; 5- drive electric motor; 6.7-vertex saws; 8.9-non-drive rollers; 10-vertex end stop; 11, 12-drive conveyors with oblique rollers; 13-chain conveyor.

Fig.3.9. Raw PM trimming line LT-1

Shift productivity of cross-cutting machines and installations (A, pcs./shift):

- for positional type machines

A=60T kt
/ t
,

— for through-type installations

A=
u T ki kt / a
,

where T -

shift duration, min;

— processing time (trimming) of one board, s (set by time-keeping observations, can be taken for preliminary trimming t=10 s, for final trimming t=12...15 s);

u is the speed of movement of the working conveyor chains;

a - the distance between the stops on the conveyor chains, m;

kt is the coefficient of working time use, taken equal to 0.9;

ki-coefficient of computer time use, can be taken equal to 0.8...0.9, depends on the filling of the conveyor circuits with boards.

Proper operation of a circular saw

A hand-held circular saw is one of the most important tools in woodworking. It significantly increases the speed of working with wood or plastic, sheet materials, boards and timber. Most often it is used for cross cutting, but this tool can also be used for sawing along the grain of wood. In this article we will describe in detail the range of uses of circular hand saws, their setup before work, operating techniques and safety rules.

Safety tips when using the saw

Before starting work, run the circular saw idle. As you cut the material, observe the following rules and recommendations:

When starting work, you must stand on the left side of the machine so that if the workpiece is accidentally thrown out, it will not hit you.
Make sure that there are no nails, pins, pieces of dirt or concrete in the workpiece or on its surface that could interfere with the cut.
It is prohibited to pass objects over a running circular saw.
If there are knots or cracks in the wood, you need to move slowly when approaching them.
When changing the saw blade, be sure to unplug it.

Disadvantages of this method

It is clear that it will take a lot of time to dismantle thick boards, especially if the amount of work is significant. However, sometimes this method remains the only possible one. Then the amount of time spent on work no longer matters.

Another disadvantage is the possible mismatch of cuts. But here all the blame will lie with the operator: incorrect guidance, tilting - mistakes of the master.

PHOTO: YouTube.com These are the thin, neat boards you should get

How to adjust the dust for an even cut?

The saw blade must stand strictly perpendicular to the support platform. This can be seen both in the position of the disk and in the degree scale on the adjusting arc. If the disk is at an angle:

The locking screw is released.
The platform tilts to the desired position.
The screw is fixed.

You should be more careful with tightening. On some models, if it is too heavy, the thread can be stripped or the head can break off.

Then it depends on how and what generates dust.

How to cut an unedged board?

Trimming the wane of a board a manual circular saw can be done in two ways:

How to trim a hand-held circular saw quickly and accurately

By marking with a pencil (marker, sharp tool, etc.).
Along the guide. To do this, a block, corner or factory guide rail is attached to the board with clamps or self-tapping screws. Dust, presses the edge of the saw platform to the guide.

Cutting along a guide usually produces a smoother cut.

We also recommend reading a useful article with reviews of the most popular and best circular dusts for the home.

Classification

In fact, all types of trimmers can be divided into two groups - household and professional. They differ in their dimensions, weight and capabilities. Finding out which instrument is in front of us is quite simple. To do this, it is enough to determine the diameter of the saw blade: if it is less than 250 mm, then this saw model belongs to the household class, and is characterized by its small size, the ability to process workpieces with a width of no more than 240...250 mm, as well as a relatively low-power drive (up to 1200...1500 W ). Combined miter saws, designed for professional use, are equipped with a more powerful electric motor (up to 2500 W), an electronic start system, and - most importantly - a significantly increased service life.

An important parameter of combined miter saws is the design and dimensions of the saw blade (all manufactured equipment has a standard range of diameters: 210, 250, 305 mm). In particular, there is a relationship between the diameter of the saw blade and the engine speed: as the thickness and diameter increase, the speed decreases. This is due to a sharp increase in the moment of inertia of the rotating parts of the drive, which negatively affects the starting conditions of the engine. However, as the speed decreases, the quality of the cut deteriorates. Therefore, manufacturers have to find a compromise between the above parameters. Typically, with a disk diameter of up to 250 mm, the speed is 5500...6000 min-1, and in professional models it is reduced to 3500...3800 min-1.

Why does it cut crookedly?

The disc cuts the line it is directed towards. In this case, the tool should be held or pressed against the guide firmly enough so that it does not move to the side.

If, despite all efforts, the cut turns out to be crooked, the reason is a waste disc. A scorched disc with blue spots on both sides may begin to wobble at the slightest heat. If the teeth on one side are normal, but on the other they are knocked out or blunted, dust may be introduced in one direction, no matter how hard you try to hold it.

Sources:

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Rip fence

A regular rip fence for a circular saw is a good example of how a small addition can make a big difference. Almost every hand-held circular saw is equipped with a rip fence for longitudinal cutting of a given width. This is a really useful device.

The standard stop has one drawback. For safety reasons, it is set to values that allow it to be used to make cuts less than 20–25 mm wide. This is done so that the stop does not interfere with the movement of the saw guard. But it is enough to attach a wooden block with self-tapping screws to the parallel strip of the standard stop - and its capabilities will increase, while the minimum cutting width will not be limited in any way.

Note! We must remember about safety - when making cuts of less than 15 mm, the block does not allow the protective casing to cover the saw blade.