Clamps for lining: how to install

A clamp for lining is a kind of fastening bracket, which is usually made of spring or galvanized steel. Quite often used as the main fastening element of wooden lining. It should be noted that this type of fastener allows installation to be carried out as hidden as possible, without revealing traces of fastening at all, while making it as fast and convenient as possible. But to carry out the highest quality fastening, you need to know all the features of this element, which will be discussed further.

Marking the base

The markings should be applied depending on the direction in which the lining will be located. Directionality can have both a decorative and practical function. For example, in baths and steam rooms it is recommended to give preference to the vertical cladding method, so that moisture settling in the seams between the boards does not accumulate and is able to flow down freely.

Horizontal markings should ensure that the bracket is located so close to the floor as to create access for a hammer to attach the clamp. To enhance the decorative effect of the finishing, diagonal laying is also used, or several methods of installing lining are combined to obtain unusual patterns on walls or ceilings. These methods are typical for residential premises. In this case, the work is difficult to complete without experience and training. The sheathing is usually installed perpendicular to the direction of the boards.

How to cover a wall with laminated panels

The process of covering walls with panels is simple and does not require high qualifications from the performer. Anyone who knows how to hold a hacksaw, hammer and screwdriver in their hands can do this job without much difficulty.

Required Tools

What tools the installer may need depends on how he plans to install the laminate on the wall, but in any case the following will be required:

building level;
tool for cutting panels (metal hacksaw, jigsaw);
block for padding panels during installation;
wooden or rubber mallet;
metal square and tape measure.

To cover a wall on a wooden frame, you will additionally need a stapler with the ability to use nails, and to attach it to a metal frame, a screwdriver. To glue the laminate to the wall, you will need a glue gun.

Wall mounting methods

Two methods of covering walls with laminated panels are used - adhesive and frame.

The first requires careful leveling, puttying and priming of the wall before starting installation.

The frame method does not require leveling the surface of the walls - the slats are laid on a sheathing mounted from a metal profile or wooden blocks.

When you plan to install laminate flooring on a wall with your own hands, it is advisable to carefully consider which option will be less labor-intensive and make the optimal decision.

Laying panels

If you choose the method of attaching the laminate to the wall using lathing, the sheathing process begins with its manufacture. To make a wooden one, you need to attach bars 20 - 40 mm wide to the wall with self-tapping screws at a distance of 300 - 400 mm from one another perpendicular to the direction of the strips. To assemble the metal sheathing, a profile designed for gypsum boards is used.

Before you start installing the laminate on the wall, you need to place spacer wedges under the bottom strip to ensure a deformation gap of 5 - 10 mm (cuts of the laminate will do). You can start installation from any corner, but it is more convenient from the bottom left.

Laminated panels are attached to the sheathing using special staples called clamps, or nails. Clippers are the best fastener for laminate flooring when laying it on a wall, but the process itself is more labor-intensive.

Due to the fact that laminated panels have the ability to expand and contract, the clamping method of their installation is the most reliable.

The clamps press the protruding part of the lamella lock, securely fixing it and not interfering with the docking of the next laminated panel laid on the wall. The clamps themselves are secured to the sheathing either with self-tapping screws or nails.

A simpler, but less reliable way of attaching lamellas is with finishing nails through the groove of the lock. For stronger adhesion, strips of glue can be applied to the bars before installation.

With the adhesive method, before starting to lay the laminate on uneven walls, first of all, it is necessary to remove these irregularities. Then the wall needs to be plastered, and after drying it must be covered with a primer. The glue must be chosen taking into account the fact that the material tends to “walk” when humidity and temperature change. To securely fix the laminate to the wall, “liquid nails” or special glue designed for this purpose are best suited.

The technological process of installation is extremely simple - you need to apply glue to the first panel (or wall) in a zigzag pattern and press it firmly against the wall at the point where installation begins. All other slats are attached in a similar way. To ensure maximum strength of the coating, they are laid with a “comb”, for which the required number of panels should be cut in half. Start laying each next row alternately with a whole strip or with its half.

To complete the work, the corners and edges of the sheathing should be covered with corners and decorative plinths.

Mounting bracket selection method

The choice of clamps depends on the type of lining used in finishing work. Varieties of material differ in the thickness and weight of the sheets, so the fastening brackets must have the required size and tongue height appropriate for the task.

Lining made of plastic and finishing elements made of MDF can be mounted on clamps having a height of about 1-2 mm. Hardware with a three-millimeter tongue is used for installing chipboard materials.

To fasten eurolining, clamps are used, the height of the tongue is 4 mm. If ordinary wooden lining is used to decorate the house, then staples 5 mm high are used to secure it to the working surface. The most powerful fasteners are needed for a block house. It should be fixed with hardware staples with a tongue 6 mm high.

The most reliable are clamping staples, the thickness of which is 0.5 mm. They are made of zinc-coated steel, so they are not afraid of corrosion and are durable. Thanks to this, the parts can be used equally successfully for both interior decoration and exterior work.

Today, clasps with spike-shaped hooks are also on sale. Such staples are driven into the ends of the lining, creating the effect of additional fixation of the wooden board. There are several varieties of such elements. You can choose the right option based on the thickness of the board on which the part will be attached. For eurolining, clamps No. 3 and No. 4 are selected, for aspen and linden boards - No. 5 and No. 6, for plastic lining, clamp No. 2 is used.

Peculiarities

Clamps for lining are special brackets that are made of spring or galvanized metal. The entire design of the clamp is aimed at providing reliable fastening for the lining to the sheathing. The form factor of the fastener perfectly matches the shape of the lamellas, which have a special tongue-and-groove system. In addition, clamps are convenient to use for fixing MDF sheets, siding and plastic panels.

The bracket has special holes with the help of which the clamp is mounted on a rough base or sheathing. Depending on the material on which the bracket is attached, the following fasteners are used:

nails;
self-tapping screws;
screws.

In order to grip the lamella, the clamps have deep hooks that ensure reliable fastening of the lining. There are models of fastening brackets on the market that are equipped with additional hooks that further enhance the fixation of the slats. In addition, these hooks provide additional rigidity to the clamp.

These fastening devices are available in a wide range, which covers almost any type of lining. Speaking about the systematization of the model range of clasps, we can say that it is done according to the height of the tongue and the thickness of the metal from which the fastener is made. The minimum height of the tongue of the bracket is 1 millimeter, and the maximum is 6 millimeters.

How not to fasten the lining Source vplate.ru

The most commonly used are clasps with a tongue height of 5 millimeters. They are suitable for most types of lining, but for eurolining it is better to use staples with a tongue height of 4 millimeters, and when working with a block house, 6 millimeters. When working with plastic panels or thin lining, use fasteners with a tongue height of 2-3 millimeters.

How to attach lining to clamps

When the lining and type of fastening are chosen, the question usually arises of how to fasten the lining with clamps. This process is quite simple, but to make the work easier, you can watch special training videos.

Carriage panels can be installed both horizontally and vertically, everything will depend on personal wishes. Vertical panels, for example, will visually enlarge a room, while horizontal panels will visually make a narrow one a little wider. And the installation method will be selected depending on the type of fastening of the lining.

When a vertical mount is chosen, the first plank is mounted in a corner, leveling it with a level. In the middle of the carriage panel, in a special groove, a bracket is fixed, which is attached to the frame with nails or screws. The third part, which is picked up, is cut off from the subsequent plank and attached under the first. The element that remains is mounted in the groove to the first panel.

For each carriage strip, fasteners for the carriage are installed, about 4 pieces. All of them must be screwed to the frame to avoid deformation of the entire coating in the future.

The second and subsequent carriage panels are inserted into the grooves of the already installed ones, and on the reverse side, they are mounted with special fasteners to the sheathing.

When it is customary to sheathe walls with panels horizontally, the planks must be attached with the tenons facing upwards. This will promote better ventilation, and therefore mold and mildew will not be as dangerous, as well as preventing the collection of water or dust between the carriage slats. Car panels are mounted with horizontal lining from bottom to top. On the bottom row, the staples should be fixed a couple of millimeters above the floor. And the edge panel is cut so that the remaining distance is completely covered.

This work is quite painstaking, so there is no need to rush here. And in order for the wall cladding to turn out perfectly smooth, it is necessary to regularly check with a level how all the cladding elements are laid.

Consider the evolution of fastening

This device is not new; clamps were used to attach window glass to frames. They looked like a flat, thin metal wedge, which was driven into the wood parallel to the plane of the glass and close to it by slidingly tapping the hammer. They were then hidden with a layer of window putty or a wooden bead. These elements were also used to attach the mirrors to the base. They were made of soft metals, the plate was attached to the base in such a way that part protruded. This protruding part (tongue) was bent after laying the mirror and held it quite securely. Sometimes the tongue was made shaped and fit into the decor of the frame. Such fastening became conditionally invisible.

Previously, the fastening of lining, wooden slabs, baseboards, and various finishing elements was traditionally carried out using nails or screws. In this case, chipping of the material, cracking and splitting often occurred. In addition, the material of the fasteners was subject to corrosion when exposed to moisture, and rust stains appeared on the finishing material. Correcting these defects was difficult or even impossible. A new kleimer came to the rescue.

Today, these fasteners are often made from durable stainless metals (steel, aluminum). There are many types of this product, but they all look like a bracket that is attached to a supporting structure . The technology for making such a bracket is simple: continuous slits are made in a metal plate, and the cut part is bent in the form of a hook. In the remaining, non-bent part, holes for screws are drilled (usually 2-3). Screws or nails must be mounted in a countersunk position.

Installation of sheathing

Lathing helps you begin installing panels without having to perfectly align the walls. This is especially true for concrete or brick foundations, which simply are not 100% level. We level the wall as best we can and proceed to the next stage.

It is important to use a building level during installation. Otherwise, curvature of the decorative lamellas may appear, which will be noticeable and spoil the aesthetic properties of the finish; The distance between the bars should be at least 60 cm, this will help prevent deformation or sagging of the lining strips

The distance between the bars should be at least 60 cm, this will help prevent deformation or sagging of the lining strips.

What is a clamper, what types are there, where is it used?

The construction market is rich in finishing materials that need to be installed with special care.
This is due to the high risk of loss of aesthetics and strength. Previously, when installing lumber and other products made to look like wood, nails and screws were used. But today, a new type of hardware has come to take their place. The so-called kleimer has become no less in demand on the market in those places where aesthetic requirements are maximum.

As you might have guessed, a clamp is a secret type of hardware located at the junction of two elements. It is hidden from human eyes, so from the outside it seems that not a single nail is involved in the work.

When buying this hardware for yourself, you need to understand the specifics of its choice, since it often has individual characteristics and is suitable for a specific type of building material. We invite you to delve deeper into the features of selection and operation.

Fixation of clamps

At the moment when it is time to start fixing the fasteners, the sheathing of the surface and leveling of the wall should already be prepared. To fasten with nails, you need to prepare the nails themselves, a building level and a hammer in advance; if self-tapping screws are used for these purposes, you need to take a screwdriver or screwdriver.

It is important to understand that the installation of wooden panels and fasteners is carried out alternately. It is very important to remember the accuracy of the calculations and the correct position of the hardware

The most important thing is to pay attention to fastening the first element, and then installing all other parts will not be difficult

For those who use self-tapping screws, the lathing will also not be superfluous. With its help, it will be easier to record all the details. For convenient installation, we make marks in advance in the places where you need to screw in the screws, or you can pre-drill holes that are smaller in diameter than the screws. The work goes like this: clamps are installed, the lining is attached to them, then hardware for the next lamella is installed.

Tools and materials

In order for the process of installing eurolining to be quick and high-quality, you cannot do without a certain set of tools.
Among them must be:

perforator;
jigsaw, it is better if it is electric;
drill;
hammer;
ruler and level;
thread for checking plumb line;
self-tapping screws that are suitable for woodworking;
clampers.

Using a hammer drill, it will be possible to prepare holes for dowels into which screws will fit when screwing the board. You can use a jigsaw to saw off the necessary pieces of material, especially if there are windows or other non-specific protrusions on the wall. For greater efficiency and faster pace of work, it is better to use a jigsaw.

A drill is necessary in order to attach wooden slats or a metal profile to the wall, into which the eurolining will be driven. You can use a hammer to hammer in dowel nails if they are used in the work, or tap the slats so that they sit completely in place without forming gaps or uneven seams. You need to work with this task carefully so as not to spoil the edges of each slats. A ruler is necessary to draw an even cutting line for the material to minimize inaccuracies. In addition, sometimes you have to cover a wall with windows, switches and other additional elements that need to be bypassed on both sides. Using a level, guides are lined up for the eurolining. The result of the finished masonry on the wall depends on their evenness.

When part of the lining is installed, you need to check it using a plumb line with a thread, if everything is fine, then you need to continue working, but if there are strong deviations, you need to get rid of them. The fastening of the boards to the guides is done using self-tapping screws. Their size is selected taking into account the thickness of the eurolining and the distance to the wall.

One of the fastening options is a clamp, which is a small bracket into which the lining is driven. Using a clamp, you can fasten one board to the sheathing and install a second one on top of it, which will fit into the groove of the already fixed part. This fastening turns out to be reliable, because each part is attached to a solid base. When planning the installation of eurolining, it is best to initially decide on the installation method and purchase only the necessary materials. If the procedure is to be done for the first time, then you can try each of the methods on a small area and determine for yourself the most convenient option for fastening materials, according to which you will need to select tools.

Where to start

First of all, before starting this kind of work, the surface is marked. To do this, they use special measuring instruments and make marks on the wall so that later the fastenings are as even as possible.

Therefore, special attention should be paid to this stage, since the final result and the general appearance of the lined surface will depend on this

To achieve the best result, a wooden frame is fixed to the wall, and the lining is fastened to it with clamps. The distance between the parts of the sheathing should be about 50 cm. All wooden parts are pre-treated with antiseptics, since this material is most susceptible to external climatic conditions. If necessary, insulation is placed in the cells of the sheathing. And only after all the preparatory work is completed and the frame is installed, you can begin fastening the lining using clamps.

Before attaching the brackets to the sheathing, you will need to prepare the necessary tools and materials:

nails and hammer,
or self-tapping screws and a screwdriver or screwdriver.

To understand the entire technology of fastening with such brackets, you need to know that you will need to fix the fasteners and car panels one by one. This process is quite simple, but it is necessary to follow the correct technology and adhere to the calculations made, since absolute accuracy is important here. After installing the first clamps, you can begin installing the first carriage planks, and then reattach the brackets. Continue this process until the entire surface is covered.

Fasteners for lining and block house

Clamps for lining are brackets made of stainless or galvanized steel, sufficiently rigid to ensure strong and reliable fastening of the material. Lining differs from a simple board by the presence of a longitudinal groove on one side and a longitudinal rib on the other. Installing it with the help of such fasteners is quite simple; any novice home craftsman can cope with this operation.

The first board is installed strictly horizontally (or vertically) in level and secured with two self-tapping screws. Then the hooks of the clamps are placed in the groove of the board and attached to the sheathing in increments of about 50 cm. The next board is installed edgewise into the groove of the previous one, tapped with a rubber hammer, adjusted with a level, and the operation is repeated. Fastening the lining with such devices ensures durability, strength, reliability and complete absence of damage during installation and dismantling. The same method is used to use clamps for PVC panels.

Block house is often used as a finishing material - a high-quality finishing material that imitates timber. The block house is made from solid wood and, like lining, has a groove and an edge, thanks to which the lamellas (boards) are connected and create a smooth and beautiful surface. The dimensions of the clamps with which the block house is mounted differ from the devices for lining, but the design and principle of operation are the same. All fastenings of this type provide a connection that is invisible on the front side, emphasizing the aesthetics and nobility of walls made of natural wood.

Rules for calculating gluers and their use when fastening

Experience in using clamps shows that for reliable and durable fastening of one square meter it is quite enough to select about ten pieces.

For a more accurate calculation, it is necessary to measure the length of one panel. After this, we measure the pitch of the sheathing frame. Typically this distance ranges from 40 to 60 centimeters. Divide the length of the panel by the pitch of the sheathing and add one. We multiply the result by the number of panels. This will be the required amount for fastening.
When choosing the type of product used for fastening the panels, it is necessary to take into account that each element must be fastened with two or three self-tapping screws. It is not worth saving on their quantity, as this may affect the reliability and quality of installation as a whole. To fasten heavy panels, thicker reinforced elements with a large number of attachment points are used.
After calculating the number of gluers, you can begin installing the panels. The wall on which installation is planned is pre-treated with special antiseptic solutions to eliminate the possibility of fungus formation. Subsequently, clamps are installed on the wall or installed sheathing using nails or self-tapping screws. In this case, nails are used only if lathing is used.

Since the use of lining requires a flat surface, if there are uneven walls, you should calculate the best way to level them. Perhaps leveling the wall surface using a special solution or installing sheathing.
Very often in such cases, lathing is used, which is installed on the wall surface quickly, and installation can be carried out on it immediately. Usually the sheathing is made of wooden beams of the same thickness, which are fixed at a distance of about one meter from each other. When installing wooden lining, this distance is somewhat smaller and is about 50-60 cm.
When installing the sheathing beam, you need to constantly monitor the plane of the resulting surface, which should be flat. If necessary, to obtain a flat surface, plates of the required thickness are placed under the beams.

Applying leveling solutions takes a lot of time, after which they also need time to dry. Therefore, this option is used much less frequently and when such work is necessary.
Having installed the fasteners for the first panel, they begin to install it and then attach the clamps for the next one. The first board is tightly inserted into the hooks of the clamps, the rest are mounted in the same way. This method ensures that each panel fits accurately and securely against each other.
To ensure high-quality installation with natural further ventilation, it is necessary to take into account that the boards should not touch the wall surface. Otherwise, this will lead to limited ventilation, moisture accumulation, and the formation of mold and mildew.

When working with lining and clamps, it should be noted that work should be carried out at an ambient temperature of at least 10 degrees, since deformation of the panels may occur at lower temperatures. The clamps must be made of stainless materials and are treated with a special protective coating, since rust can spread over the surface of the lining.
Liquid sealant cannot be used at the joints of wooden panels, but it is better to choose a moisture-proof film for this. Its use during temperature changes can lead to cracking of the panels. After installation is completed, the surface of the lining should be treated with special protective antiseptic materials that increase its resistance to precipitation and ultraviolet radiation.
Taking into account all the requirements for choosing clamps for lining will ensure reliable and durable installation, as well as a long service life of the installed coating.

To learn how to attach clamps for lining, see the following video.

Frame structure

Installation diagram of MDF panels.

If the rough ceiling in the room is made of prefabricated reinforced concrete panels, you must first carry out preparatory work. The rustles between the slabs are cleaned of everything that does not hold well. The aesthetic properties of the rough base are not important, so the easiest way to fill the seams is with polyurethane foam. For wooden plastered floors, it is enough to ensure strong adhesion of the finishing material to the base. If the strength of the plaster is in doubt, it is better to knock it down. After all, during the installation of suspensions, the quality of adhesion will further deteriorate. And this already threatens the strength of the future structure.

Next, you need to apply horizon marks at the corners of the room, i.e. serifs that will be located strictly at the same level. The easiest way to do this is with a laser level. But a regular water level with a tube of sufficient length will work just fine. It is not advisable to use a bubble level on the staff for this; this can lead to significant errors.

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Scheme of an open slatted ceiling.

Using the marks obtained, we determine the lowest corner of the ceiling of the room. The rough base is rarely horizontal; the discrepancies usually reach several centimeters. We retreat 5 cm from the level of the lowest point of the rough ceiling. At this mark we will make the base of the finished ceiling. Using horizon marks and a tape measure, we transfer the mark for the placement of the future frame to all corners of the room. Using a construction cord, draw a horizontal line around the perimeter of the room at the selected height.

Then you need to make sure that there is no electrical wiring in the room at this level. There are special devices for this. If they are not available, you will have to carefully look for grooves covered by builders using a hammer and chisel. An indirect indication of the position of the electrical wiring is the placement of wiring boxes. It's easiest to start from them.

We fasten the UD profile around the perimeter of the room so that its bottom shelf is flush with the horizontal line. It is attached to a concrete or plaster base with “quick installation” dowels into holes drilled with a hammer drill. For walls with a wooden base, “press washer” screws are suitable for this. Their length is chosen so that the thread enters the wooden base by at least 25 mm.

Next, you need to decide on the direction of installation of the MDF panels. Because The panels have a finite length; it is advisable to choose a direction in which they would not have to be extended. In addition, keep in mind that placing panels along the long side of the room visually lengthens it, and across it shortens it.

Marking of suspended ceiling.

At the locations of future load-bearing rails, draw straight lines on the ceiling. Along the lines, perpendicular to them, we attach straight hangers, also in increments of 30 cm. They are attached to concrete bases with driven dowels, and to wooden bases - with press washers of sufficient length. It is selected in the same way as for attaching the UD profile to the wall.

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CD profiles or 25*50 mm wooden slats are inserted across the grooves on the UD profile. They are fixed to the bent legs of straight hangers with LN 9.5 mm self-tapping screws. The extra length of the paws is simply bent upward. It is convenient to lay sheets of polystyrene foam insulation on the bent legs if insulation is being carried out. If necessary, profiles or slats need to be extended using connectors. All lightweight galvanized profiles can be easily cut with metal scissors. If you use wooden slats instead of galvanized profiles, try to find ones that are even and dry, which is not at all easy. Before cladding, you need to lay all the necessary electrical wiring along the frame.

How to choose the right clamps

You can select clamps for installing lining and plastic according to the dimensions of the panels and their materials. Brackets are classified by the size of the tab or tab that is used to support the mounting plate. There are these types:

For installing chipboard. The thickness of the elements is 4 mm;
For installation of plastic lining and MDF. Up to 2 mm;
To fasten eurolining panels, staples up to 4 mm thick are used;
For classic wooden lining, 5 mm fasteners are used;

Also, in some cases, sheet sizes are selected individually, depending on the thickness and material of the panels, as well as the location of their installation. It is most convenient to buy fasteners in bulk, this will significantly save your time and money.

In construction stores, the classification of clamps is carried out by numbers. For example, when installing aspen panels, brackets 5 and 6 are used for the ceiling, and for eurolining 4. Check the information directly with the seller so as not to confuse the fasteners.

Photo - steel clamp

In the process of choosing clamps, a prerequisite is that you need to take into account the thickness of the material used for finishing work

It is very important to use only those brackets for lining that correspond to the dimensions of the product that you plan to use for cladding a particular structure

If we talk about the consumption of these fasteners, then you will need about 20 pieces to finish one square meter. Clamps have a relatively low cost, so you can safely purchase these parts with a reserve - in any case, it will cost you less than buying other types of hardware.

The main requirement when choosing clamps for lining is size. Based on the parameters of your panels and the type of material, determine the appropriate fastener option so that they provide the expected reliability of the coating, but are invisible after all finishing work is completed.

Having decided where to buy clamps for lining, consider the following recommendations for their intended purpose:

staples up to 2 mm - the optimal solution for assembling structures from plastic panels and MDF boards;
3 and 4 mm fasteners are purchased when clamps are needed for eurolining or chipboard;
5 mm fasteners - to solve the problem of how to fasten lining made of wood, especially species such as aspen, linden;
6 mm products are used for blockhouses.

steel strength;
integrity of galvanization;
consistency of dimensional parameters of the entire batch.

The described fasteners for lining are so common among consumers today for many reasons. Among others, we can highlight the possibility of carrying out installation work in a room whose conditions are characterized by a high level of air humidity. Among other things, such fasteners are quite simple to use; even a worker who does not have enough experience can perform the manipulations.

The main requirement when choosing clamps for lining is dimensions.

Based specifically on the characteristics of your panels and type, determine a suitable fastener option so that they provide the expected reliability of the coating, but are invisible after all finishing work is completed.

Having decided where to purchase clamps for lining, consider the following tips for their intended purpose:

staples up to 2 mm average solution for assembling structures from plastic panels and MDF boards;
3 and 4 mm fasteners are obtained when clamps are needed for eurolining or chipboard;
5 mm fasteners to solve the question of how to fasten lining made of wood, especially species such as aspen and linden;
6 mm products are used for blockhouses.

steel strength;
integrity of galvanization;
consistency of dimensional characteristics of the entire batch.

Facade and roofing elements

Currently, hinged ventilated facades are very popular. To install the finishing layer of such a facade, façade clamps are used. These are reinforced stainless steel fasteners capable of holding fiber cement, porcelain stoneware, ceramic slabs, aluminum plates and other facing materials. Facade fastenings are made from high-quality steel, because... These structural elements bear the load from the weight of finishing materials and are exposed to environmental influences.

They are also used for the installation of seam roofing (metal roofing, the sheets of which are joined using the seam joint method). Roofing fasteners are metal plates with holes that fit inside the seams. Then they are used to attach roofing sheets (pictures) to the rafters. This installation method ensures high reliability and does not require drilling holes in the roofing material. Roofing clasps are made of brass, copper and stainless steel; they can be movable (floating) or fixed.

Fixed fastenings can be used when installing short paintings. Long pictures can only be mounted using movable ones, due to possible thermal expansion of the material. You can attach the assembled sheets to the rafters with both nails and screws. Clippers are produced for already formed sheets, as well as for manual forming. The first one is produced with already bent edges, and you need to select it to match the size of the edges of the roofing material.

When choosing roofing clasps, you need to be guided, first of all, by the correct selection of materials. To ensure that galvanic couples do not occur, the fastener material must match the material of the sheets. An exception may be stainless steel fasteners. To secure the roof in the main areas, a pitch of 40-50 cm is recommended, while at the edges the pitch should be reduced to 35 cm, and in the corners even to 25 cm. Based on this, you need to calculate the number of fastening kits.

It is more rational to purchase roofing material and all fastening elements from one supplier. This protects against dishonest fulfillment of warranty obligations.

Useful tips

It is recommended to buy clamps for lining in trusted construction stores. This eliminates the possibility of getting a fake instead of high-quality material, which will lead to rapid failure of the clamps.

It is also not recommended to use liquid sealant to form joints; this can affect the condition of the fasteners and cause corrosion.

To protect both the lining panels themselves and the fastening elements, after completion of the work it is necessary to cover the slats with varnish, wax or stain.

Installation of panels in a horizontal manner begins from the top corner. This will help maintain the aesthetics of the last plank, and if, when installing the outer lamella, it needs to be shortened, this flaw can be covered with a plinth.

Holes for sockets and switches are made before covering the paneling with varnish.

To decorate a room with wooden paneling, the wall itself must also be treated with a primer before starting work.

The purchased material (lining) must lie in the room for at least a day before installation. This will help avoid problems after the material expands or contracts as a result of changes in temperature and humidity.

In order to hide the space between the first plank of the lining and the floor, it is necessary to use a plinth specially designed for this.

When purchasing clamps, it is important to pay attention to the material from which they are made. This is especially true when purchasing fasteners for street cladding.

Compliance with the following simple rules will extend the life of the lining and preserve its original appearance for a long time:

Claimers should be purchased in specialized construction stores, which will eliminate the risk of counterfeiting and prevent corrosion and rapid failure of the fastening brackets;
to avoid rust and destruction of hardware, it is not recommended to use liquid sealants to form joints;
after completing the installation work, you should coat the lining with a varnish, oil or wax composition - such a coating will help protect the material from the aggressive effects of sunlight and excessive humidity;

when installing the lining, do not allow the lamellas to come into direct contact with the surface of the base - this can negatively affect the ventilation of the walls and cause the formation of fungus and mold;
cutting out holes for sockets and switches should be done using a flared saw immediately after cladding, before applying varnish or wax;
the space left near the floor is hidden with the help of a decorative baseboard that matches the color and texture.

You can learn the fastest way to attach the clapboard from the video below.

Application

Hardware is used in matters of construction and finishing, where it is impossible or undesirable to use nails, due to the fact that the appearance can be spoiled. Before use, you need to assemble a wooden or metal structure in the form of guides, which are installed level in the same plane.

The number of guides for fastening must be at least 3 pieces, where the material will be fixed in the center and along the edges. It is recommended to use at least 5 guides per length of three meters.

Claymer for lining

Place the hardware evenly. When using self-tapping screws and screwing them into wood, it is recommended to drill to prevent cracking of the guide.

The scope of application is such that gluers are used by private individuals in matters of finishing, as well as by professional builders. For example, it is used when finishing a bathhouse with clapboards made from any type of wood. It is used for installing MDF panels in hallways and kitchens, for lining ceilings, and for arranging floors in gazebos and loggias by laying decking boards.

Fastening the lining with clamps

Finishing nails are available in various types of coating and are selected depending on the location and type of finish:

black – steel fasteners without an additional anti-corrosion layer for work in completely dry rooms;
galvanized - the inexpensive and most popular variety, the zinc layer provides reliable protection, the products are suitable for use in all types of structures that do not have direct contact with water;
with copper, brass, chrome or bronze coating - more expensive types of fasteners that can be used in rooms with high humidity and in open spaces, with increased requirements for aesthetic finishing, when working with expensive types of wooden lining.

Any novice craftsman who knows how to use a hammer can handle the job. Also during the installation process, a hammer is used - the device allows you to drown the head of the nail without damaging the material.

Using a Finishing Nail Puncher

When the panels are positioned vertically (the sheathing must be horizontal), installation is carried out in the following sequence:

Place the first part with a tenon in the corner (for reliability, it is better to fix the first and last parts through with self-tapping screws, cover the caps with decorative caps to match the panel).
Attach finishing nails to the sheathing beams through the groove at an angle of 45 degrees using a hammer with gentle blows.
Insert the second panel with a tenon into the groove of the first, lightly tap the panel with a hammer through a piece of clapboard or block. Check the evenness of the masonry with a level.
Attach through the groove with nails to the sheathing, etc.

Fastening in a horizontal position is carried out using a similar technology.

When using nails, they are driven into the groove of the lining at an angle, completely recessing the head into the wood. To avoid damaging the bar, you can use a hammer. Screws are screwed in in the same way, also making sure that they do not protrude and interfere with “planting” the next board.

Installation of lining with finishing nails. Options

Is it possible to fasten the lining in a bathhouse with finishing nails?

There is another option - simply hammer the nails into the lining, recessing the heads deeply (with or without drilling). Cover the resulting indentations with wood putty. It’s much easier to do this, but not everyone is happy with this option from an aesthetic point of view: making nail/screw marks completely invisible is quite problematic.

You can make your own wood putty that perfectly matches the color. To do this, mix the smallest shavings, or better yet, the dust that is formed when cutting the lining, with a small amount of PVA glue until it becomes a thick paste. Use this mixture to cover all the grooves.

Finishing nails for lining

It is better to take finishing nails for lining in a bathhouse with a copper, brass or chrome coating. They will withstand high humidity and will not collapse prematurely.

The first board is installed in the same way as when installing lining using nails. It's all about how it is fixed. Clamps are put on the tenon, which are attached to the sheathing using nails/staples/screws. There are three holes for fasteners, but you choose whether to use all or only two (it is dangerous to fasten the paneling in a bathhouse with one nail/screw - it can tear it out). Nails or screws are supplied with the clamps. If you are going to “mount” it on self-tapping screws, it is better to have a screwdriver - this will speed up the process significantly.

You can also use a construction stapler to attach the clamps, but you also need to know how to use it. It all depends on how hard you pull the trigger. If you press weakly, the staple will not completely enter the wood; you will have to either shoot another staple, or “finish off” this one with a hammer.

In any case, the fixation scheme is no different from fastening with nails: first fasten the clamp in the middle, then along the edges, and, after checking the vertical/horizontal installation, to all other intermediate lathing strips.

The lining is attached to the ceiling according to the same principles as on the walls: first, a wooden frame is assembled, adjusted to the level. The lining is attached to it - with clamps or nails - it’s your choice. Both methods have a right to exist.

It is more convenient to lay the lining with the tenon facing towards you. The principle is the same: you lay the first board of the lining, retreating 1-2 cm from the wall. It can be fixed along the wall with nails - then a corner or plinth will be attached to the top. Then, on the tenon side, at the intersection of the lining with the sheathing, you either install clamps or drive nails in at an angle.

Conclusion: You can fix the lining yourself. There is nothing super complicated about this. It takes time, accuracy and patience (except for the lining and fasteners).

Nuances of assembling various designs

When it comes to assembling furniture, you need to take into account that it will not be possible to connect elements of different products in the same way - the installation of furniture structures requires special fasteners, fittings and a set of tools.
There are certain nuances in the assembly process itself - you need to know them in order to work quickly, accurately and accurately. Floor installation of a bed is significantly different from the assembly of wall cabinets; the connection of upholstered furniture parts and the installation of a built-in compartment are carried out completely differently. Some nuances and recommendations for assembling various furniture: a chest of drawers with drawers is an example of simple prefabricated furniture with a minimum number of fasteners. You need to install drawer guides on the side panels. Pour a little glue into the blind holes in the sidewalls and ends of the stiffener flanges, insert the dowels and easily hammer them in, connecting the elements, and then attach the confirmations. The top cover is fixed with dowels and minifixes - a pin in the cover, an eccentric in the sidewall, then the confirmations are screwed in until they stop. The next stage is to nail the back wall, having previously checked the diagonal, assemble the drawers, install guides on them, screw the handles into the prepared holes; standard sleeping bed. After checking the presence of all structural parts, the base is assembled - the transverse and longitudinal beams of the frame are connected with euroscrews (confirmations) or self-tapping screws. A cross beam is fixed in the center, the lamellas are installed in specially prepared grooves. The side walls of the frame are secured with dowels and plugs. The remaining elements of the bed are fixed with bolts, the legs are screwed in, if there are any, and the mattress is placed in the base box. The double model is assembled according to the same principle; bed with lifting mechanism. The standard model consists of a frame (base), a lifting mechanism, a mattress and internal drawers. You will need a screwdriver with a full set of attachments, a screwdriver, a wrench, euro screws with countersunk heads and an internal hexagon, a tape measure and a level. Assembly diagram: connecting three drawers and headboard parts with brackets, corners or ties with screws. In the upper part of the drawers, shelves, corners, a lifting mechanism are mounted - a gas shock absorber (cylinder upwards) is secured with nuts with a stopper, handles and a limiter for the mattress are installed; Stationary cabinets are the easiest furniture to assemble. Sequence of actions: connecting the shelves with the side panels using confirmations and screwdrivers, installing the back wall made of fiberboard, for which furniture nails or a furniture stapler with staples are used. After assembling the box, check the same level of diagonals and compliance with the right angle between the elements. The next step is hanging, adjusting the facades, then all that remains is to install the shelves. If the model has drawers or roll-out shelves, guides for them are installed first; sliding body - a stationary sliding wardrobe with a plinth begins to be assembled by screwing the plinth to the bottom with minifixes and dowels, and then driving in support nails

The body is also assembled on minifixes and duplicate dowels; it is important to check the correspondence of opposite holes. Next, fix the back wall (nails, staples, installation in a groove), check the diagonal and angle

After this, you need to install shelf supports, guides for drawers, install shelves and a bar. If the cabinet is without a base and trim in the lower rear part, the plinth is dismantled; sliding door system – used for all coupe models. Built-in products do not have side walls and are often made without a roof or bottom. Installation consists of attaching shelves to the walls of the room and installing a sliding system. First, install stoppers and limiters, secure the upper guide rail, there is no need to screw the lower one. The door panel is inserted into both guides into the far grooves, the second leaf into the near grooves, and adjustments are made. After this, you can fix the bottom rail and glue the sealing brushes; elements of a kitchen set are complex installation; a full set of tools, diverse fasteners, and special fittings are required. Assembly begins with the preparation of the lower sections - the bottom is connected to the side walls with euroscrews, the planks are installed under the tabletop, the back wall made of fiberboard is secured (stapler, nails in increments of up to 10 mm), and the legs are fixed with self-tapping screws. This is followed by installation of hinges in the mounting slots, hanging of hinged facades, and adjustment. Drawers are assembled using the same principle. After screeding the “bottoms,” the tabletop is installed, checking the horizontal level with a building level.

How is the need for clamps calculated?

Since clamps or staples must securely fix the panel in the intended place on the wall, their number depends mainly on the length of the lining. For eurolining, manufacturers usually complete the specified volume of material with the required amount of fasteners, which is easily installed according to the included instructions. In other cases, follow the following practical recommendations:

For every 400-500 mm of wall, at least four fasteners with a length of at least 1.5-2 mm are required.
To fasten the lining to complex surface elements (protrusions, bay windows), at least five units of fasteners are required for a length of 300-400 mm.
To fasten lining in corners (for example, at window or door openings), the number of clamps increases to six, while the length between adjacent fasteners for lining should not be more than 250 mm.
To fasten the material at the points where it is attached to the frieze, the amount of lining fasteners is taken at the rate of: four clamps per 250-400 mm of panel length.

Thus, based on the row of installation of the lining, as well as the complexity of the perimeter of the premises, it is possible to fairly accurately determine the need for these hardware.

Installation using clamps is very neat

In addition to the products under consideration, you will also need screws or self-tapping screws with which the clamp is attached to the sheathing. Their number is determined by the design. Typically, the construction bracket and clamp have three mounting holes, although another design may occur (in particular, for eurolining).

The difference between clamps and other fasteners

But why should you use this particular fastener for lining? Kleimer has some differences from other options, and this is what they are:

Installation using self-tapping screws and nails increases the likelihood of damage to the finishing material (formation of cracks and chips). This makes it necessary to buy a supply of panels, which increases financial costs.

Brackets can be selected to fit panels of any size and weight.

This mount is suitable for use in rooms with high humidity.

Advantages

The hidden method of fastening lining using clamps has gained increased popularity not without reason. Thanks to its use, the finishing process has significantly accelerated. In addition, the use of clamping hardware reduces to zero the risk of damage to the material, the appearance of splits and cracks, which often happens when using standard fasteners made of nails and self-tapping screws.

Claypers are selected individually for the type of lining used in the work. The high degree of fixation of such hardware guarantees that in the future the boards secured with such staples will be motionless, will not give play and will not become loose.

The use of clamps does not require the use of any additional components. For installation, the staples themselves and nails or self-tapping screws are sufficient to complete the fixation.

All products of this type have an anti-corrosion coating or are made of stainless steel. Due to this, the reliability and service life of parts increases many times over.

Installing the lining and dismantling it in this way is done quite quickly. The clamps are practically invisible, so the structure has a complete appearance, without gaps or indentations, any damage or protruding fasteners such as nail heads and screw heads.

Installation using such hardware is simple and does not require the use of special tools.

Advantages and disadvantages of using clamps

Kleimer is used by buyers who prefer to finish with wooden paneling.

This choice is based on several circumstances:

The simple design ensures ease of installation of the lining. To work with such fasteners, professional skills and experience are not required;
The use of lining clamps reduces the need for drilling under physical pressure on the decorative material. This way it is possible to prevent deformation of the wooden decor;
A large selection of metal fasteners allows you to choose the necessary model to create seamless connections;
The fasteners prevent the lining from shifting and damaging the structure of the wooden walls;
Claymers can withstand temperature changes and high humidity;
The affordable cost of metal fasteners makes them popular among users;
The simple design of the clamp is considered universal and suitable for any base.

The main disadvantage of such products is their inability to withstand mechanical stress. Experts do not recommend choosing this type of fastener for decorating walls with various vibrations.

Hidden fastening of furniture parts. (kitchen cupboard)

How to connect the parts so that the fasteners do not ultimately spoil the appearance of the product?

Of course, glue them together, according to the classics, on dowels/chops.

Yes, for laminated chipboard parts this method is also allowed, but it is not used due to the increased assembly time. Previously, I remember such glued cabinets were delivered as ready-made sets from Italy, somewhere in the Moscow region.

According to the technology, for high-quality gluing and the absence of an adhesive seam, the parts must be tightened with special large clamps

I didn't have this goodness. Buying it is quite expensive.

I got out of it the best I could:

the result of such perversions was a kitchen without visible fasteners and plugs.

A few more photos of this kitchen

Duplicates found

@pardonche, @cblpop, @Maxviduoka, @Kowareta, I would like to sincerely thank you for your comments. You are all right, the work is far from a standard and a demonstration of “skill”.

You helped me look at my business differently.

The tape with the switch is of course poorly made

agree. Please advise how the external design could be improved?

in a profile like this.

Oh, instead of a switch you can use a dimmer.

Now there are LED lamps with motion sensors on sale. Turns on and off when you bring your hand to a distance

15 cm from the sensor. Unfortunately, I couldn’t find these sensors for sale separately. For a “wet” kitchen, I think this option is optimal.

It seems to be more beautiful, but fucked.

Who cares if you open a drawer and you can see some kind of eccentric or fastener inside the drawer?

PS why didn’t you go for Euro? these slats on the tables are so 90s

PSS I dare to assume that if you have to disassemble the boxes, it will be a big problem

customer initiative. The owner didn’t want to see the fasteners. no. Euro saw, like many other things, was replaced in the project for the purpose of overall savings and final customer satisfaction

Eurozapil involves European-quality renovation, as I was once told)

Have you tried to explain to her what kind of collective farm this will create?

PS I wouldn’t dare take on this, in view of the dubious adequacy of the customer, who knows what to expect from such people.

Preparation for installation of lining

Indoors, the described finishing material can be installed both vertically and horizontally. As for rooms with high humidity levels, under such conditions installation is carried out exclusively vertically. This eliminates the retention of condensate in the grooves of the locking connection. On the external walls of buildings, the lining is installed horizontally, and work should begin from the bottom. In order to extend the service life, such panels should be treated with polyurethane-based mastic.

Once the dimensions of the clamps for the lining have been determined, the installation of the panels can begin. If the canvases are placed horizontally, then you should advance starting from the bottom. We install the lining in a vertical direction; installation must begin from any corner. Each lining is fixed to the neighboring one by means of a locking connection.

A perfectly flat surface is necessary so that the plastic or wood material is correctly installed, and there are no visible gaps, depressions or protrusions between the panels.

Therefore, installation of the frame is a necessary stage of such finishing work.

It can be assembled from wooden blocks, a metal profile and special plastic guides, in which grooves are already made for attaching clamps.

The step between the bars of any type of sheathing should not exceed 60 centimeters. And the distance between them can, if necessary, be filled with heat-insulating material. The simplest material for assembling a frame, of course, is wood (except for rooms with high humidity, such as a bathroom, bathhouse, sauna).

But it should be remembered that wooden blocks may rot over time, so it is advisable to coat them with a special antiseptic in advance, which will protect them from biological damage for many years.

Installation

Depending on how to attach the lining to the clamps, vertically or horizontally, the installation method is also selected.

When the cladding is in a vertical position, the first panel is installed in a corner and leveled using a level. In the middle of the lining, a bracket is installed in the groove and attached to the sheathing using nails.

When installing vertically, 3-4 clamps for lining are screwed onto one panel. Each of them must be secured with several nails to the sheathing bars in order to avoid deformation of the structure in the future.

The next finishing board is inserted into the groove of the one that is already installed, and on the other side it is mounted using fasteners to the frame.

The sauna is finished horizontally

If the cladding is mounted horizontally, then the plates are fastened with the tenons facing up, which improves ventilation and prevents the accumulation of water and dirt between the grooves of the panels.

Installation of horizontal eurolining is carried out from the bottom up, and the brackets of the first row are attached a few millimeters from the floor. In this case, all panels should be fastened to clamps to each block.

The last board or plastic panel should be cut to tightly close the remaining gap.

Conclusion

Installation using clamps has a number of advantages and is a modern alternative to fastening with finishing nails or a stapler. If the surface covering is carried out in compliance with all the rules and instructions, then it does not present any difficulties and is accessible even to a non-professional builder.

The first board is inserted into the clamping hook, after which subsequent elements are inserted into the tenon with a groove. After successful integration of the panel, you should evaluate how smoothly it fits in, and then fix it with the next bracket. The end with the tenon must be pressed tightly against the wall, and on the other side, the bracket must be installed in the groove with fastening elements (screws or nails).

At all intersections with vertical panels, elements should be nailed. When the installation of the lining on the clamps is completed, the area where the last board was fastened can be covered with a wooden portico. The advantages of this design include the possibility of easy dismantling. At the very least, there is practically no risk of damage to the lining elements during this procedure.

Lining is a high-quality wooden board used for cladding buildings, for interior decoration, for bathhouses and fences. Until recently, when choosing hardware for a molded product, the question did not arise: nails and screws.

But this is a visible fastener, it is crude and not suitable for the interior. What cannot be said about special clamps - a type of hidden fastener.

Using clamps, the installation of lining eliminates the possibility of damage to the panels and the formation of technological holes in them

What is a kleimer

Clamps are fastenings for lining, which are brackets that are installed on the base (sheathing, wall) using self-tapping screws or nails. That is, you will still have to use the usual hardware, but they will perform a secondary role: securely fix the bracket. A special hook serves as a fastening for the lining.

There are staples with spike-shaped hooks that are driven into the base of the lining, further securing it. This prevents accidental distortion of the surface.

The shrinkage of wooden walls is not so bad; the panels are securely fixed to the surface

The use of hidden fasteners undoubtedly has many advantages and disadvantages:

There is no risk of damage to the lining during installation and dismantling. Nails and self-tapping screws leave small holes, which over time can form a crack in the material. Moisture can also get into them, and the tree will begin to rot from the inside.
Hidden fasteners that are not visible. The walls in the room will look like a single whole, without unnecessary metal caps that spoil the appearance of the wood.
Simple installation, without the use of special tools: clamps for fastening the lining are installed according to the dimensions of the panels. They are also easy to dismantle.
The same simple dismantling, in which the likelihood of damage to the wooden surface is virtually eliminated.
Reliability. The galvanized steel bracket (pictured below) is not at risk of rusting or corrosion. Such fasteners will last for many years.

The hook is extremely difficult to bend; this will require physical exertion: wooden lining does not have such weight

The only drawback that appears in comparison with visible type hardware (screws and nails) is the price. It may slightly, but increase the cost of finishing a room with clapboard, for example, a balcony. And if a budget renovation is planned, this may affect the choice of fasteners.

Depending on the varying thickness of wood panels, there are several options for brackets designed for several types of panels. Therefore, be careful when choosing fastenings for the lining.

Clamps for euro-lining are produced under numbers 3 and 4, and numbers 5 and 6 for linden and aspen lining. Number two is designed for plastic lining.

Special clamp for Block House

Start of installation

Next, the instructions will be described: how to fasten the lining with clamps, but before you start installing the lining on hidden fasteners, you need to purchase a tool for the work process and calculate the required number of staples.

You may need two types of tools:

Installation on nails: hammer, tape measure, building level, building square.
Installation on self-tapping screws: screwdriver or screwdriver, building level, building square.

When purchasing fasteners, you should proceed from the calculation of 20 pieces per 1 square meter of lining. That is, when covering walls with an area of 20 square meters, you will need 400 pieces. Typically, clasps for lining are sold in packs of 100 and 200 pieces.

Installation of sheathing

For lining, a flat surface is very important, as, in fact, it is also important that the clamps will be installed on the leveled sheathing of the lining floor. Otherwise, an uneven wall will not allow the panels to be securely fixed, and too obvious depressions will be noticeable.

Therefore, mounting a frame made of metal profiles (wooden blocks) is a necessary attribute of finishing work.

What you need to know:

Wooden sheathing is short-lived: if the bars are not treated with antiseptics, they will soon begin to rot.
The metal profile can be used the same as when installing drywall.
To level a single plane for all racks, a laser level is used, or a string stretched between the drains.
The step between the beams is no more than 60 cm.

The clamp for the lining should be secured to 2-3 self-tapping screws (nails). You cannot save on fasteners by fixing the brackets with only one self-tapping screw. This may lead to surface deformation.

Surface marking

The brackets are marked depending on the type of panels:

Vertical lining: fasteners are installed at a distance from the wall exactly the size of the panel in width.
Horizontal lining: the clamp is mounted a few millimeters from the floor so that it is possible to tighten the screw with a screwdriver or drive a nail with a hammer.

Installation of lining

Horizontal fastening of the lining to the clamps occurs as follows:

The first panel is inserted with a groove into the hook of the staples.
The next panel is inserted with a groove into the ridge of the previous panel and at the same time fixed with a clamp.

We remind you: the optimal step between fasteners for horizontal lining is 45-60 cm

Vertical installation of lining on clamps:

The end on which the ridge is located is pressed tightly against the wall.
Staples are inserted into the groove and secured with hardware.

Methods for attaching laminate

For all methods there are certain rules so that the finish after installation retains its original appearance and no unraveling seams appear. Wall laminate in a pack is kept for a week or two in the conditions of the room where it will be installed, to adapt to temperature and humidity.

Mount the frame:

They mark the slats on the wall, usually the step between them is taken to be half the length of the lamella.
The galvanized profile is cut to size, fixed vertically to the surface (horizontal lamellas), using a level and stretching the marking threads and cords.
If the stripes are assembled vertically, the frame elements are placed horizontally.
A horizontal cross member is strengthened from below so that it serves as a support for the first panel.

Staples are placed on the bottom bar to conveniently position the first row. The next lamellas are joined into a groove and secured with clamps and nails. The seams can additionally be coated with sealant. Temperature gaps should remain along the edges of the assembled coating for possible expansion, so that stress does not arise in the layer.

For clamps

The devices are used only on surfaces in which you can screw in a self-tapping screw, drive a nail, or a staple with a stapler. The clamp has holes for fixing to the frame and a clamp for the laminate shelf. Sometimes the shape of the clamp does not fit a particular laminate lock. Then grind off the threshold or cut off the protrusion using a chisel.

The first row is placed with wedges placed to ensure the strip is horizontal. Clippers are fixed to its upper part at equal distances. When installing laminate, make sure that there are no gaps.