How to strengthen a plasterboard wall for a kitchen

When installing interior walls, questions often arise: how to strengthen a plasterboard partition, and what fasteners to use to assemble it? Solutions to these problems may vary, depending on the complexity of the job and your capabilities. As a rule, rack profiles with a width of 100 millimeters are used to strengthen partitions, but in this case the structure turns out to be too massive. Is it possible to achieve an acceptable thickness with optimal strength? Yes, this is feasible, and if such a goal is set, you can use many tricks and techniques.

Options to strengthen the frame of a plasterboard partition

How to strengthen a wall, Partition between the kitchen and toilet.

Hi all! I encountered a problem while installing the kitchen. Well, of course it was assumed that the wall between the kitchen and the toilet was thin, but not that much! It turned out to be a 1.5 cm sheet of something. It was either chalk felt or plasterboard, but with thin metal rods inside. You can even dig through it with a screwdriver. The task is to hang kitchen cabinets on this wall (dish drying, terminal and corner cabinets.)

Question. How to strengthen this wall so that the cabinets do not fall. I THINK it’s better not to hang anything on such a wall without additional shamanism. Neither anchors nor drywall fasteners will help. The drying cabinet will be heavy.

The house is new. This year's delivery. P44T

Thank you in advance for your cooperation.

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Izmaylovo5 wrote: It turned out to be a 1.5 cm sheet of something there. It was either chalk felt or plasterboard, but with thin metal rods inside. You can even dig through it with a screwdriver.

And yet, to answer your question, you need to know exactly the design of the wall and the materials used

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You can make hangers from strips and attach them to the ceiling with anchor bolts. Is the flooring a reinforced concrete slab?

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Overlapping reinforced concrete slab. Wall - 1.5 cm slab. I don't know what from. Toli plaster or chalk. But there are iron bars inside this slab. It looks like a mesh. I don't really like the solution to attach it to the ceiling. because it is difficult to regulate the location of the cabinets. I would like to retain the ability to hang them on a standard bar.

The materials we will use have not yet been purchased. So you can get creative here. What comes to mind is to spandite a beam of 50x50 or even larger cross-section on the toilet side. And attach the cabinets through the wall to this beam.

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Izmaylovo5 wrote: Reinforced concrete slab floors. Wall - 1.5 cm slab. I don't know what from. Toli plaster or chalk.

Most likely plaster - I also have a fresh P44T. The box for the Euro socket went right through from the kitchen to the toilet. The wall is really about 1.5-2 cm. I also want to join the question.

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Mistress2009 wrote: The box for the Euro socket went right through from the kitchen to the toilet. The wall is really about 1.5-2 cm.

Then the simplest solution would be to put a tongue-and-groove wall 8 centimeters thick next to it (butt-to-end), and the problem will disappear into oblivion

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Paletsky wrote: Then the simplest solution would be to put a tongue-and-groove wall 8 centimeters thick next to it (end-to-end), and the problem will disappear into oblivion

And if the idea came after finishing the finishing and laying the tiles on the kitchen backsplash, what should I do then? True, this wall is plastered, but not with a thick layer.

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Mistress2009 wrote: What to do then?

Then place the tongue-and-groove ridge on the other side of the wall

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Paletsky wrote: Then install the tongue-and-groove ridge on the other side of the wall

As I say, the thought came later. Therefore, on the other side (in the toilet) there is a tile.

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Then there are no options, just like miracles.

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Izmaylovo5 wrote: It comes to mind to spandorize a 50x50 beam or

Wouldn't it be better to have a wooden panel, maybe even on both sides. 20mm is enough. The width is quite small, based on room design considerations.

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Paletsky wrote: Then there are no options, just like miracles.

Oops. Then the question is: what is the maximum weight that such a wall can support? So that the cabinets don't fall off? Are there really no options?

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Hostess2009 wrote: Then the question is - what is the maximum weight such a wall can support?

To answer your question, you need to at least touch such a wall

Mistress2009 wrote: Are there really no options?

Frankly speaking, I can’t even imagine what you were thinking about when you started finishing?

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Paletsky wrote: what were you thinking about when you started finishing?

About the rest of the premises. You can't provide for everything. I’m not asking what the builders and designers of this series were thinking about. I wonder what people who don’t have money for repairs should do - we have municipal housing, many moved into what the builders did.

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2Housewife2009 Can you give a photo of one and the other side of the wall where the cabinets will be hung? You can hang the cabinets, you just need to think about how to do it more or less aesthetically

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2Izmaylovo5 Indeed, you can spandrel it, but not timber, but 20mm plywood, which should be enough.

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Paletsky wrote: Can you give a photo from one side and the other of the wall?

I'll look for it today. Well, nothing is visible there, in terms of thickness. I didn’t photograph the thickness separately. Here are old photos. The plaster wall itself is the wall of a plumbing cabin. Behind it is the toilet. There is a bathroom cabinet where the sink is located. Closer to the door (it doesn’t fit in picture 1, it is in picture 2) ventilation starts under the ceiling, covered with plasterboard above the door). Wall 180-190cm. The depth of the sanitary cabinet is about 50 cm. The toilet itself is approximately 120 cm. The wall of the sanitary cabin on the side of the bath and toilet doors is 7-8 cm. On the side of the kitchen, the wall of the bathroom is the narrowest, there were 2, well, at a stretch, 3 cm. The fittings in the wall are, in my opinion, gratings. But from the corridor side - this plumbing cabin is much thicker - the shield fits in without any problems. I have a plaster wall - plastered with a layer of a couple of cm from the kitchen side (it was piled up). I myself think this way: if the cabinets are heavy, then I’ll fix some kind of mounting strip right through the plumbing cabinet (you can crawl there) and if you somehow crawl through the ventilation duct (there the layer of I don’t know what is about 15 cm, it’s more difficult to climb, and it was not possible to drill a hole from the kitchen side - the drill was not long enough and there is a plastic pipe lying there), fasten something on the kitchen side too and then attach the bar to this something (ventilation is 30 cm or more above the cabinet hanging line, then the span of a thin place will be less than a meter. I don’t know if I wrote it clearly

Improvised techniques

A fairly thin reinforced plasterboard wall will be obtained if each vertical post is made from two folded profiles. This design can withstand more weight than one profile. The parts are connected using self-tapping screws, which are usually screwed in increments of 150-200 millimeters. On the other hand, profiles are not designed to be used in such a non-standard manner, and a prefabricated support may not be very practical.

Another way to strengthen the structure is to insert a wooden beam inside the profile. Both parts are connected with self-tapping screws in increments of up to 200 millimeters. Before reinforcing the drywall profile with timber, it is recommended to make sure that their dimensions are suitable. It is necessary that the width of the beam be slightly less than the width of the profile. It is also necessary to ensure that the support does not deform during the process of connecting the fasteners. Then the reinforced profile for drywall will adhere to the horizontal planks with millimeter accuracy.

Both options are improvised and are most often used to create doorways. But you can install more durable profiles directly from the manufacturer.

Kitchen design in a panel house: original ideas for a standard layout

Everyone is familiar with the typical layout of apartments built in the mid-twentieth century. The design of the kitchen in the panel house was as primitive as the building itself. However, today there are many solutions that help turn 7 meters of space into a modern, functional and cozy corner.

Increased space

Before you begin renovating and designing a small kitchen in a standard nine-story building, you need to maximize the area of the room using any available additional corners. It is very good if there is a storage room or niche next to the kitchen (they are often found in apartments of a panel house). They must be completely dismantled and attached to the area. If this is not possible, you need to make the most of the opening by placing a refrigerator, some furniture sections or shelves there. The old heating system with massive cast iron radiators, typical of panel houses, is being replaced with a new modern one. Such a replacement will both visually and actually increase the space and make the design more airy.

If there is a neighboring loggia, it is possible to significantly increase the size of a 7-meter room, a kitchen of 9 meters or more. To do this, it is necessary to dismantle the balcony door completely or partially. When completely dismantled, the space continues to the windows facing the street. In this case, it will be necessary to demolish the vertical part of the wall, the area under the window sill. For such redevelopment of an apartment in a panel house (as in any other) you will need permission from the relevant authorities, since the heating battery will have to be extended using welding work. During partial dismantling, only the balcony or block with a window is demolished. A window sill can become a bar counter and replace a dining table.

If you have an electric stove, you can remove the kitchen door and replace it with a decorative arch. If a gas stove is installed in the apartment of a panel house, the door cannot be demolished. A reasonable solution would be to replace it with an accordion folding one or (if space allows for the rollers to move along the rails) a sliding one.

Kitchens in panel houses, photos of which are also presented on our website, as a rule, do not have a full-fledged dining area. Due to the small number of meters, it was originally planned as a place for a small family to eat. To receive guests, you need to take care of additional space. This is possible if the kitchen in a panel house is redesigned and turned into a studio or if the next room is used.

Types of layouts

Optimal for standard rectangular kitchens located in 9-story panel buildings are linear, corner, and U-shaped layouts. Let's consider the characteristic features of each of them.

Linear single row

The design of a 7-meter kitchen in a panel house can be represented by a single-row linear layout. In this case, the kitchen set is placed along one blank wall. This simple traditional option helps to furnish a rectangular kitchen as quickly and cheaply as possible. For furniture in the work area, measuring the length of the wall will be sufficient. On the opposite side you can place a dining table with chairs.

Linear double row

This kitchen interior involves placing kitchen units along two walls. In this case, the working area is increased, the so-called triangle principle is observed (visual combination of the stove, sink and refrigerator). With this layout, the dining area should be located near the window (in the absence of a balcony). The insufficient number of meters does not allow the table to be placed in another place, since the passage will be narrow.

Corner

This option is the most successful. It allows you to optimize space, occupying a minimum number of square meters. At the same time, the working area is large, the triangle rule is followed. The entire center, the opposite wall, perhaps even a corner is free to accommodate a dining area with a table, chairs or a soft kitchen corner.

U-shaped

This method of arranging furniture along three walls with three corners is most suitable for a kitchen in a panel house, enlarged by a loggia. In this case, the maximum number of working surfaces will be supported by labor optimization. By installing a stove or sink under the window, you can admire the city landscape while working. Only a wide kitchen is suitable for this layout, since the required distance of 1 meter for passage is required.

Interior design features

The kitchen in a panel house does not have large dimensions, so it needs a visual increase in space. Design advice on decoration and color schemes will help make the room more spacious.

Choose pastel shades, peach, beige, white, light green, light brown. Bright, rich colors in the design make a small room feel cramped and gloomy. In this case, it is better to leave the ceiling plain white. If the height allows, you can make plasterboard suspended structures or a glossy stretch ceiling.
The best wall decoration is paintable wallpaper, decorative plaster, and easy-to-clean panels. When developing a design, avoid using colorful and large patterns that will visually reduce the size of the kitchen. Longitudinal stripes will elongate the room, and large prints will make it overloaded and bulky. Ceramic tiles, which can be easily washed from grease and soot, would be appropriate in the apron area. A very original and stylish solution is glass aprons made of heat-resistant tempered glass.
For flooring, give preference to ceramic tiles or moisture-resistant laminate, which is easy to use. Lay out the covering diagonally - this design technique will increase the area of a small-sized kitchen in a panel house.
Particular attention should be paid to lighting, since sunlight is not always enough for comfortable work and communication with household members, especially if the kitchen faces north or west. It would be very appropriate to illuminate the work area using light bulbs built into the set and apron. You can hang a wall sconce above the dining table, and a chandelier in the center of the kitchen. Just make sure that the latter is not bulky. The same goes for furniture.

Style selection

A Scandinavian-style kitchen looks very stylish and homey. It is distinguished by light, airy tones (white, beige, brown, sand), as well as an abundance of indoor plants that make the interior more elegant. This design is dominated by clear geometric shapes and minimalism. You can also consider the Provence style, which will give the interior a touch of French sophistication. Furniture in faded colors, natural materials, and original decor will fill the kitchen in a panel house with a unique atmosphere and warm aura.

A small kitchen in a typical high-rise building can look very modern and stylish. It is enough to seek advice from experienced craftsmen, look at the photos and designs of such kitchens on the website. The project proposed by experts will certainly appeal to the most selective owner.

The main thing is to strive to make your home comfortable and convenient, and everything will definitely work out!

Photos of kitchens in a panel house

Video review: an example of a successful layout for a small kitchen.

Ready-made reinforced profiles

The maximum load that a profile can withstand depends on two indicators - the width of the product and the thickness of the metal used. The wider and thicker the profile, the stronger it is, accordingly. Therefore, if the question arises of how to strengthen a plasterboard wall, you can purchase ready-made certified products designed for increased loads.

Three main types of profiles for partitions. Please note that the height is the same for all

Rack profiles are divided into three categories depending on their width:

• 50 millimeters – universal standard; • 75 millimeters – in most situations this profile is used to strengthen the frame; • 100 millimeters – for cases where high demands are placed on the strength of the partition.

Regardless of the width of the profile, it is best to use those made of sheet metal with a thickness of 0.55 millimeters or more; the ideal option is if this figure is 0.6 millimeters. Then the partition will turn out to be quite strong, even if it is sheathed with only one layer of drywall.

In most cases, installing a profile with a width of 75 millimeters is sufficient. With it, a reinforced plasterboard partition will not be too bulky. Rack profiles with a width of 100 millimeters are an option for situations where the maximum load is planned to be placed on the wall. Partitions on such supports are the thickest possible, but they acquire excellent soundproofing properties. You can also hide almost any engineering communications inside them.

Fixing a TV, kitchen set, boiler or heavy shelf on drywall is easy!

It’s not uncommon when you need to hang a heavy object on a plasterboard wall: a TV bracket, kitchen cabinets or a water heater - the list goes on for a long time. However, we all know that conventional fasteners cannot provide reliable fastening - drywall is too fragile for point loads. In general, cladding or partitions made of gypsum plasterboard have sufficient strength if the load is distributed evenly. The problem is how to distribute the point load

, for example from two anchors that hold a 50-liter boiler.

This issue can be completely resolved, with the only condition that care should be taken to secure heavy objects before sheathing with sheets, when the frame is ready. The embedded elements are mounted on the unsewn frame in the places where the fasteners are installed. Theoretically, there can be a lot of solutions to this issue, but we will consider wooden mortgages, more precisely made of plywood. Conventionally, two types of them can be distinguished: with fastening to the frame and without

. The more reliable ones are those that are attached to the frame, and those that are not are simpler and designed for less load.

So, for reliable fastening, the mortgages are mounted to the frame. For fixation, a guide profile PN27×28 mm is used, which is attached to the side of the rack profiles of the sheathing. If the installation is carried out on partitions, where the rack profiles are initially turned with their inner sides towards the future mortgage, additional profiles are not required. Support profiles (PN27×28) can be taken either the same height as the mortgage or longer. The main thing to remember is that there must be space left below (or above) without PN-ok in order to insert this embed.

The support profiles are secured to the racks using metal-to-metal screws; this should be done more often. As a rule, they should be sunk by 1-2 mm. relative to the plane of the frame - place foam and screw heads. The mortgage itself is screwed to the supporting profiles with wood screws and the caps will stick out a little.

The thickness of the mortgage is selected based on the load. Under the water heater you should take two layers of plywood no thinner than 10 mm; if you take a thicker one, you will have to saw off the back edge from the PN and make an “L” shape out of it. For a kitchen set, one layer of 10 mm plywood should be enough, although it all depends on the kitchen, here we mean regular laminated chipboard. Generally one layer is 10 mm. plywood is suitable for most tasks, with the exception of objects that are too heavy such as a boiler 50-100 kg. To attach a TV bracket that hangs at some distance from the wall (the force of the lever acts on the bend), it is better to take thicker plywood: 18 mm. or 2 layers 10 mm. In general, for mortgages I had to use everything that came to hand, even the walls of Soviet furniture cabinets.

It should be understood that there are no numbers or engineering calculations - everything is done “by eye” and there are no clear dimensions and thickness of the mortgages!

When the mortgages are mounted in the right places and it’s time to sheathe them with plasterboard, a thin layer of polyurethane foam is applied to the surface of the plywood - a thin snake over the entire area. In my opinion, it is not necessary to do this procedure, but it is more reliable. Next, the sheet is mounted as usual, self-tapping screws are screwed through the gypsum board into the mortgages - the more often, the better. But we should not forget that often screws that are twisted can significantly impede further installation.

As I already mentioned, brackets for TVs, which do not hold the TV close to the wall, but at some distance (20-30 cm) - act on the wall with a mortgage, as if “at a break”. You need to understand that the remote TV acts as a lever, even with little weight. Therefore, for such a mortgage, great care should be taken when attaching it to rack profiles. Between the racks you can attach additional hangers to the main wall (if there is one).

Small items such as paintings and shelves weigh less than 10 kg. can be mounted on plywood embeds without fixing to the profile. Before sewing, the required piece of plywood is screwed onto the back surface of the gypsum board (the main thing is that it does not fall on the profile) and the sheet is mounted. In general, this method is even suitable for covering a kitchen unit - the main thing is to take pieces of plywood from profile to profile and at least 50 cm high.

Actually, that’s all, there are no problems in securing heavy objects on drywall or gypsum fiber if you know how and what!

Application of double skin technology

There is another way to strengthen the drywall frame if the strength of the 75 mm wide profile does not suit you. Typically, in such a situation, double cladding is made using profiles 50 millimeters wide. Then the thickness of the partition will be 100 millimeters, but its strength will increase significantly.

It helps to strengthen a plasterboard partition well, double sheathing with intersecting seams. This method also improves the sound insulation of the room.

It is recommended to lay a layer of mineral wool between the profiles. This will contribute to better sound insulation. Although the wall will practically not allow noise to pass through, it is better to play it safe and get rid of cavities in which sound travels and resonates well. The reinforced frame for plasterboard with double skin also retains heat indoors quite well. It is better to lay mineral wool after one side of the partition has already been covered with sheets: this will make it much easier to fix the filler.

Drywall is attached to the profiles with self-tapping screws, and it is recommended to screw their caps all the way in to avoid protrusions above the wall surface. After all, you need to not only take care of how to strengthen the partition for drywall, but also ensure that all further finishing work is carried out without a hitch. The fact is that the protruding heads of the screws will interfere with the application of putty. If you drown them too much, the strength of the connection will be compromised.

To assemble partitions, it is best to use a reinforced Knauf plasterboard profile, which is quite durable and practical. This brand produces products of different thicknesses and widths, so finding a suitable option is not difficult.

Why drywall is not the best choice for walls: comparing alternatives

It’s rare that a redevelopment can be done without erecting new partitions, unless you decide to make a studio and are just tearing down the old walls. New walls can be built from piece materials, such as brick, slabs and blocks of various compositions - we have already talked about them in the article “From brick to glass blocks: what to build interior partitions from.” Or use sheet materials. There are three most popular today, and we are ready to tell you about all their pros, cons and features so that you can choose the best one.

Plasterboard walls - gypsum plasterboard

A plasterboard sheet is a layer of gypsum wrapped in thick paper, measuring 1200x2500x12.5 mm and weighing 29 kg. It can also be thinner - 9 mm wide, but this option is very fragile. It is mounted as follows: first, a frame is formed from a metal profile, then plasterboard sheets are sewn onto the frame in two layers, overlapping on all sides. The final wall thickness will depend on the width of the metal profile used 50/65/75/100 and will be 100/115/125/150 mm, respectively. GCR is sheathed not only on walls, but also on ceilings.

Waterproof plasterboard sheets (GKLV) of green color are also sold, but they are conditionally waterproof: with constant exposure to water, such sheets will swell, even if they are covered with tiles on top. It is better not to use it in “wet” rooms at all.

GCR cost: 250-350 rubles/piece. GKLV will be more expensive.

Pros:

It is well processed to create complex shapes: arches, convexities, concavities.
It is convenient to lay communications inside the frame, which is sheathed with gypsum board.
Easy installation.
The wall turns out smooth and does not require additional leveling.
If you mount the frame on top of the floor screed, the plasterboard wall can be dismantled and rebuilt as needed.
Very light material, gives very little load on the floors.

Minuses:

1 m² of plasterboard wall can withstand no more than 20 kg of facing material. That is, the tiles will withstand normally, but porcelain tiles are no longer a fact. If overloaded, the finish will soon fall off along with a layer of cardboard, exposing the plaster.
One butterfly dowel (the tip of which opens after screwing) will hold an object weighing no more than 10 kg in a plasterboard wall, and no more than 4 kg on the ceiling (you will have to make a cutout under the curtain rod or lay a beam on the ceiling). If you want to hang something heavier, you need to know in advance where exactly and lay a beam or profile there.
Very poor sound insulation.
Low strength - dents remain from impacts.
Use with great care in damp areas.

What is better than drywall: Gypsum fiber sheet (GVL)

GVL also consists mainly of gypsum, but is reinforced with various environmental additives. The assortment includes PC sheets - with a straight edge, they are intended for walls, and FC - an edge with a recess (for the floor). There is also a GVLV (waterproof gypsum fiber sheet) in stock: it does not differ in color in any way, it only has a seal indicating moisture resistance.

Dimensions of the gypsum fiber sheet are 2500 x 1200 x 10/12.5 mm, weight 36/42 kg. More often, a thickness of 10 mm is used for interior partitions. The metal frame is sheathed with GVL sheets in one layer, unlike gypsum plasterboard. To improve sound insulation, you can make two layers, but then it is better to combine: one layer of gypsum fiber board, the other of gypsum plasterboard.

Thickness of the final single-layer gypsum fiber board partition 10 mm: 70/85/95/120 mm depending on the width of the selected profile.

Cost: 450-500 rub./piece. The final wall is approximately the same in cost for gypsum plasterboard and gypsum board, since gypsum plasterboard is mounted in two layers, and gypsum board in one.

Pros:

The butterfly dowel can already withstand up to 20 kg on the wall and up to 8 kg on the ceiling, which is two times higher than that of gypsum plasterboard.
Non-flammable material, can be used in saunas.
Good water resistance, can be used in the bathroom; Even a frame for a bathtub or sink can be made from GVLV.
It is well processed to create complex shapes: arches, convexities, concavities.
It is convenient to lay communications inside the frame, which is sheathed with GVL.
Easy installation.
The wall turns out smooth and does not require additional leveling.
If you install the frame on top of the floor screed, the gypsum fiber wall can be dismantled and rebuilt as needed.

Minuses:

Sound insulation is better than gypsum plasterboard, but not by much. It can be improved by installing the material in two layers.
For items heavier than 20 kg, you will still have to make additional reinforcement of the wall at the hanging location.

Another alternative: Cement particle board (CSP)

DSP is the golden mean between wood and stone in its properties. Made from cement, wood fibers and liquid glass (stationery glue). There are slabs for interior decoration and for facade (FCSP). Size of one slab: 2700 x 1250 mm or 3200 x 1250 mm, and thickness to choose from 8/10/12/16/20/24/36 mm. For interior partitions, widths of 10 and 12 mm are most often used; the weight of slabs of this width is 46 and 54 kg, respectively. It is better to choose the widest frame - metal or wood. The final width of the wall will be about 12 cm.

Cost: 800-900 rub. per slab 2700 x 1250 x 10 mm.

Pros:

The assortment includes DSP with a three-dimensional decorative pattern imitating brick, stone, wood, etc. Such DSPs are more expensive, but do not require finishing.
Moisture-resistant material, can be used in bathrooms even with direct contact with water.
Non-flammable - can be used in saunas, baths and around fireplaces and stoves.
Does not rot, very durable.
You can make many other elements from DSP, besides walls: use it as a top layer to level subfloors, make window sills, steps.
On a butterfly dowel it can withstand up to 50 kg.
The partitions are strong, but easily chipped.
They are easy to install, except that due to the weight it is more convenient to do it with two people.
Good sound insulation.

Minuses:

There are 1-2 mm joints between the plates, which cannot be avoided. So, either use this material in rooms whose length does not exceed the width of the slab (in bathrooms, storerooms), or cover the joints with wood or metal overlays.
Not the lightest weight, complicates installation and puts an average load on the floors.

Let's sum it up

Drywall, which is so popular today, turns out to be not the most optimal sheet material. Cement particle board has the most advantages, and a good alternative is gypsum fiber sheet.

Strengthening plasterboard partitions: effective techniques, nuances, recommendations from specialists

When carrying out construction and repair work, there is often a need to strengthen the plasterboard partition. This problem can be solved in several effective ways.

The option of using wide (100.0 mm) profiles is logical, however, the plasterboard structure turns out to be very massive. Let's consider this and alternative methods of strengthening that maintain an acceptable thickness of the partitions.

How to fix a cabinet on a plasterboard wall

Drywall is a universal building material used in all types of repairs.
It has many advantages and a minimum of disadvantages. Due to the fragility of the material, difficulties may arise in the question of how to attach a cabinet to a plasterboard wall. To solve this problem, wizards use some options, familiarization with which will not lead to an error. The plasterboard surface will remain intact and not deformed.

Impromptu techniques

A reinforced, rather thin plasterboard wall will result if all the vertical posts are made from a pair of profiles folded together. The resulting structure can withstand considerable weight without destruction.

The elements are connected using self-tapping screws, screwed in at intervals of 150.0–200.0 mm. In principle, the profiles are not adapted to such uncharacteristic use, so the installation of prefabricated supports is not practical.

A good technique would be to insert a wooden beam inside the profile parts. Both parts are fastened with self-tapping screws with an intermediate pitch of approximately 200.0 millimeters. Before reinforcing the profiles, you need to make sure that the dimensions match - the width of the wooden beam should be slightly less than the profile width.

Related article: How to quickly remove old wallpaper from walls

In addition, it is necessary to ensure the evenness of the support during the joining process, otherwise you may end up with a deformed part for the plasterboard wall. The reinforced profile should fit very tightly to the surface of the horizontal planks.

These options are improvised and are used more often for the production of doorways.

The methods are certainly effective, however, it is better to use ready-made, more durable products created by the manufacturer at the enterprise.

How to hang a heavy cabinet in the kitchen

To hang heavy furniture in the kitchen, you need to use fasteners that can support the appropriate weight. One of these is Harmut Knauf. It holds up to 55 kg weight. To fix it you need:

make a hole in the plasterboard surface measuring 13 mm;
take the “Harmut” by the blue antennae and insert the metal bar at the end into the hole;
By pulling the antennae towards you and aligning them, the bar will become horizontal on the back side. Will rest against the surface;
on the front side, the antennae are fixed with plastic fasteners and cut off;
A screw is inserted into the hole created from a plastic sleeve and tightened.

Ready-made reinforced profiles

The values of permissible load indicators for a metal profile depend on factors: the thickness of the metal and the width of the structural elements. The thicker and wider the profile, the stronger it naturally becomes.

Therefore, when there is a need to strengthen a plasterboard structure, you can buy factory-produced, certified parts that are specially designed to withstand increased loads.

There are several varieties of particularly strong partition profiles. It is worth noting that the height parameter is the same for everyone. Products are classified into categories by width:

— 50.0 mm – multifunctional standard;

— 75.0 mm – the most popular profile;

— 100.0 mm – especially durable elements for partitions with high requirements.

Regardless of the profile width, it is better to use a profile made of sheet metal with a thickness of half a millimeter or more. The ideal option is 0.6 mm, which allows you to install very strong partitions even with sheathing in one sheet of plasterboard.

Very often, it is enough to install a 75 mm profile, with which the reinforced plasterboard partition will not be overly bulky. 100 mm rack profiles are an option for walls that can be loaded to the maximum. Such partitions are the thickest, with good soundproofing characteristics and the ability to accommodate various utilities.

Method 4. Expandable anchor fastener

Expandable fasteners are more difficult to install, but are much more reliable. When tightened, the part of the dowel located behind the drywall is compressed along its length, spreading widely to the sides. Even a strong accidental tug will not pull the tightened expansion fastener out of the wall.

This approach allows you not only to hang cabinets on gypsum boards, but also to attach pendant elements and lamps to a plasterboard ceiling - one dowel will support a weight of up to 35 kg.

Attention! With multi-point fastening, the load per square meter of drywall should not exceed 50 kg. Therefore, you should not load single dowels to values close to critical.

Expandable anchor fasteners for hollow-core walls consist of two elements:

A metal or plastic dowel with “petals” that diverge widely when tightened;
A screw or self-tapping screw of suitable length and diameter.

Two types of expansion fasteners are most often used:

"Molly" with metal dowel and screw;
“Butterfly” with a plastic core and a self-tapping screw (lightweight version of “Molly”).

To attach cabinets to drywall, a hole with a diameter corresponding to the diameter of the fastener is drilled in the places marked for fasteners using a conventional drill. It is inserted into the holes in a straight, loose state, and a small side at the end of the dowel will not allow the fastener to fall inside the wall.

After this, a screw or self-tapping screw is screwed into the dowel all the way through the furniture's mounting lugs. There is no need to apply excessive tightening force - overtightening the “butterfly” can lead to the screw turning in the plastic, and the fastening element will have to be changed. It is difficult, but possible, to break the thread on a metal Molly dowel.

Double skin technology

In addition to those listed, there is another effective way to strengthen the frame. It is used if you are not satisfied with the strength of a 75mm product. In this case, double cladding is usually performed when installing a profile with a width of 50 mm. Of course, the thickness will be greater (100.0 mm), but the strength will also be significantly enhanced.

The technique of double skinning with intersecting seams strengthens a plasterboard partition quite well. Also, this technology contributes to good sound insulation of rooms.

To guarantee a barrier to noise, it is recommended to lay a layer of mineral wool. The wall is already a good obstacle to sounds, but the internal cavity still contributes to resonance and their propagation. Filling with insulating material will additionally perform a thermal insulation function.

Recommendation! It is more convenient to place mineral wool after finishing covering one side of the partition!

Plasterboard slabs are fixed to the profile with self-tapping screws, which must be tightened with a small recess to prevent defects in subsequent finishing. Screw heads that are not tightened enough will interfere with quality puttying. When performing installation, it is important not to overdo it, since screws that are too deep into the drywall will not provide a proper connection.

Method 5. Anchoring into a solid wall

This solution is used for main walls covered with plasterboard; it is not suitable for partitions made of gypsum plasterboard. Anchoring into the wall allows you to hang large structures, household appliances and cabinets on a plasterboard sheet.

To do this, hatch holes are cut into the gypsum board so that you can drill into the main wall with a hammer drill and install anchors. The anchor consists of a metal or plastic dowel and a long threaded screw or hook. I don’t take into account chemical dowels, because... they are used quite rarely and have some difficulties in installation.

It should be noted that the fasteners must be completely located in the main wall. Therefore, screws and hooks are selected to be longer so that the threaded part of the screw reliably wedges the anchor, and the head of the screw protrudes beyond the plasterboard wall.

You can hang heavy furniture on anchors if the distance from the main wall to the gypsum board does not exceed 5 cm. At a greater distance, even a thick screw that can withstand significant loads will bend over time. In this case, you can use a combined method, for example, by securing the tire to anchors and adding several attachment points to the gypsum board.

After installing the anchors, the cut sections of drywall are mounted in place. The joints and the hole around the anchor head are sealed with putty.

Advice! To cut out sections of plasterboard, it is very convenient to use a toothed bit clamped in a drill chuck. The crown will quickly and accurately cut round holes in the drywall, the discs from which will snap into place with a minimum gap. The diameter of the hatch hole of 100 mm is quite enough for installing the anchor.

Anchoring is effective if the main wall is made of concrete or brick without voids. In cinder block or foam concrete, the anchor holds much worse.

You can increase reliability by passing the anchor through the rack profile of the plasterboard lining. Unfortunately, the places where furniture is attached do not always coincide with the location of the metal frame parts.

The disadvantage of mounting on anchors is the need for very precise markings. Possible distortions and deviations will become noticeable only when the furniture is already secured to the anchors, and it will not be possible to hang the cabinet “a little higher” or move it to the side.

Kitchen cabinet installation methods

Gypsum plasterboard (GKL) is a fairly fragile material that cannot withstand significant weight loads.

Therefore, hanging and fastening shelves on gypsum boards requires correct calculation of fastening points and selection of fasteners.

Attach to expansion anchor

Each fastener can withstand a pullout load of 35 kg; it turns out that furniture with a total weight of 70 kg can be hung on two anchors.

The expansion anchor is installed inside the gypsum board and increases in diameter at the back of the sheet

Place the furniture against the wall and mark the attachment points with a pencil.
At the marks, holes are drilled equal to the diameter of the fastener.
The anchor is inserted into the hole until it stops, and the threaded screw is tightened. There should be a clicking sound as the part's legs unclench from the back of the gypsum board.
The anchor fastening screws are tightened with a screwdriver to tightly fix the part in the hole.
Afterwards the screws are unscrewed. The furniture is placed against the wall, screws are inserted into the mounting loops and screwed back into the mounting hole of the anchor sleeve.

Main wall mounting

This method is used for hanging massive and heavy furniture weighing over 100 kg. Such fastening is possible only if the distance between the gypsum board and the main wall is no more than 5 cm.

Installation is carried out in the main wall, the permissible load depends on its characteristics

First, they calculate and mark the places where the furniture needs to be attached. Then drill holes in the drywall according to the diameter of the selected anchor. Next, they begin to work with the main wall.

Using an impact drill or hammer drill, drill holes at least 5 cm deep.
The hole is cleared of concrete chips and dust using a tube.
The anchor spacer is inserted into the mounting hole.
A threaded pin is inserted into the bushing; two nuts are screwed onto the outer end for security and locked together.
Afterwards, the top nut is tightened with a suitable wrench. There should be a slight creaking sound from the opening of the anchor petals.
Once the nuts are securely fastened, the cabinet mounting loop is threaded onto the outer end of the anchor.

Hang on a mortgage beam

When the location of wall-mounted storage systems is known before covering the walls with plasterboard, a wooden beam can be laid under it. In this case, the weight load falls on the beam, which is securely fastened to the main wall. Laying timber is one of the most reliable options for hanging furniture - it can withstand a load of 100 kg.

Scheme of fastening to the embedded beam

For work, select a beam with a width of at least 80-100 mm. The thickness of the mortgage must correspond to the height of the profiles so that the sheet of drywall lies on them without interference, but there is no large opening.

Measure the distance between the vertical profile posts. To this size, the required number of segments are cut from the timber.
On the wall, mark the height of the cabinets and the location of the timber between each vertical profile.

This is what the embedded beam between the profiles looks like

The timber sections are secured between the profiles to the main wall with anchor bolts at 2-3 points.
After installation is completed, measure the distance from the center line of the bars to the floor. The value is recorded (it will be useful after covering the walls to determine the exact location of the beam).
Before hanging the cabinet, measure the required distance from the floor to the center line of the beam and draw a horizontal line.
The cabinet is lifted to the mounting location, leveled and secured to the mounting hinges with wood screws.

Mounting on horizontal bars

When the walls are already covered with plasterboard and it is necessary to hang pieces of furniture at the same level, metal rails are used.

These are narrow and long steel profiles with holes for fasteners, which are sold in the form of long rods.

Adjustable brackets are installed on the side walls of each cabinet using self-tapping screws.

Installation diagram of a wall-hung cabinet on a horizontal rail

In this case, the total load is distributed over a large number of dowels, so this mount can withstand the weight of cabinets from 50 kg.

The height of the cabinets is measured, and marks are placed on both sides of the wall at this level. Next, measure the distance from the top plane of the furniture to the hook bracket. This distance is laid down from the marks and a horizontal line is drawn along this level.
Measure the overall width of the hanging cabinets and cut the profile to this size using a hacksaw for metal.
A tire is mounted along the drawn line using dowels along the gypsum board. First, it is fixed with 2-3 dowels. They are leveled and finally mounted with additional dowels in increments of 50-80 mm.
For greater stability, it is recommended to screw 2-3 screws for metal into a metal profile under the drywall; its location can be detected using a magnet.
After checking the reliability of the fixation, the furniture is hung.

Dowel mounting

This fastening option is used for hanging individual cabinets at different levels. To do this, use wrap-around plastic or metal dowels. Regardless of the material, the dowels have the same diameter, but come in different lengths: 25 mm and 32 mm. Each fastener can withstand a pull-out weight of 10 kg.

The dowel is suitable for cabinets weighing up to 20 kg

Calculate and mark the places where the furniture will be attached, and use a drill to drill mounting holes.
A dowel is inserted into the hole and, using a curved screwdriver, screwed until it stops.
The cabinet is placed against the wall, and self-tapping screws with a wide head are screwed into each dowel through the mounting loops.

When hanging furniture, it is important to consider not only the pullout load of the fasteners, but also the permissible load on the drywall. If possible, it is better to use more reliable methods - installing a mortgage or mounting it on a main wall.

In this case, problems with the stability of the cabinets will not arise even with significant weight and active use.

Fastening techniques

Let's start with the fact that fastening methods entirely depend on the parameters of the object being hung (dimensions, weight), and based on the data obtained, you can get an answer to the question - is it possible to hang kitchen cabinets on drywall.

Professional techniques

The most popular and accessible method even for beginners is to attach kitchen cabinets to plasterboard using butterfly dowels and special plasterboard dowels.

When attaching cabinets to the so-called “butterflies”, you need to make holes in the wall and then install the fasteners. When screwing a self-tapping screw into a “butterfly”, the tendrils of this type of dowel spread in different directions and tightly press the installed fastener to the surface of the gypsum board.

Operating principle of the butterfly dowel

If the cabinet is mounted on special dowels, use a screwdriver to screw the dowel into the cavity of the material and only then screw in the fastening bolt (screw). This method allows you to fasten only lightweight structures whose weight with all contents does not exceed 5 kg.

dowel nail; 2. snail dowel; 3. butterfly dowel;

The second method is to attach kitchen cabinets to drywall using mounting strips . The main feature of this fastening technology is that the mounting strips are attached to a sheet of drywall, and not to the suspended structure. The strips are fixed in several places (both to the gypsum board and to the metal profile located under the drywall). Fixation is done with self-tapping screws.

Mounting rails for wall cabinets

After completing the installation work, you can hang a cabinet on such slats, the weight of which when fully equipped will not exceed 15 kg. But this method has one significant drawback - the use of unaesthetic fasteners that are unlikely to decorate your kitchen.

If you need to hang bulkier and heavier cabinets on the wall, there are other secure mounting options that will help you do the job yourself:

Extended anchor bolts can be used as fasteners - such fasteners will allow you to attach bulky kitchen cabinets and even household appliances to the wall.

In order to secure them, you should drill deep holes with a hammer drill through the drywall at the very base. We insert anchor bolts into the resulting holes and clamp them there using ordinary wrenches.

Which is better: heated floors or radiators?

Warm floorBatteries

This method of fastening is relevant only if there are base walls (this fastening option is not applicable for a plasterboard partition);

Anchor Bolt Installation

Note! If you choose the method of fastening with anchor bolts, then during the process of hanging the cabinet you need to monitor the tension level - overtighten the bolt, and the sheet of drywall may simply burst.

There is another proven method - even at the stage of designing and installing a plasterboard wall (partition), it is necessary to make special embedded parts into the frame, made of timber, reinforced metal profiles, brackets, etc. They are made in those places where the intended attachment points of kitchen cabinets will be located . After the mortgages are covered with plasterboard, special marks are placed on its surface indicating their location.

The price of mortgages is zero - they can easily be made from leftover building materials.

Advice! In terms of the choice of fastenings, nothing should limit you - you can try to create your own “mix of several methods, using the same mortgages and anchor bolts at the same time.

Unconventional fastening methods

Often, in order to more securely fasten massive and dimensional elements to surfaces, additional fastening systems are used:

Thus, a heavy kitchen cabinet suspended on a plasterboard wall can be additionally secured to the ceiling using decorative cables;

Hole in the shelf for the cable

As additional elements for fastening kitchen cabinets, experts often use decorative chrome-plated tubes - they are screwed to the floor and installed in the form of a frame, which bears the weight of the suspended structure;

In order for the hanging cabinets to be mounted as efficiently and productively as possible, several recommendations must be followed:

Use only those fasteners that have a quality certificate and meet aesthetic standards;
When marking fastening points, you must use a building level, and not do the work by eye - correct marking will allow you to evenly distribute the load on all fastening points.

If you follow all the instructions and recommendations described above, then you will probably end up with a reliable fastening system that will quietly serve until the next repair.

In addition to cabinets, the presented techniques allow you to attach any other hanging accessories and attributes to the walls (hoods, air conditioners, cornices, curtains and paintings). All of the above work can be carried out without problems by beginners, without the involvement of expensive specialists.

Shelf on plasterboard for various accessories

Strengthening a plasterboard wall

Published on September 29, 2017 in the Walls category // // Author: Admin

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Drywall is increasingly becoming a part of our lives. It has many good qualities, such as ease of installation and quick installation. For this reason, it is chosen not only by novice repairmen, but also by experienced builders. This material is excellent for leveling surfaces: floors, ceilings, walls. But often you need to hang a kitchen cabinet or bookshelves on the wall, and drywall will not be able to withstand such weight; it will certainly begin to crumble and break. This will not have a positive effect on the appearance, since it is even possible for a piece of drywall to be torn out of the wall along with a falling cabinet or shelf. This is where the question arises: how to strengthen a plasterboard wall so that you can use wall cabinets without fear of collapse. There are several ways to strengthen walls, each requiring knowledge of certain nuances, which are discussed in this article.

The need to use mortgages

There are several ways out of this situation. The most reasonable solution is to plan the approximate location of the kitchen furniture at the beginning of the renovation. In this case, when installing the supporting structure perpendicular to the profile, you will need to install bars, which in the future will become the place where kitchen cabinets will be hung on plasterboard.

For mortgages, bars of at least 40 × 40 mm in size are used, which are placed spaced between the profile.
After installation, they are attached with self-tapping screws to the load-bearing wall.

To protect wooden mortgages from condensation and subsequently from the appearance of fungus, they are pre-treated with special means and primed.

After this, the frame can be covered with plasterboard, marking the installation locations of the mortgages with a marker.

In order to hang the cabinets, all that remains is to secure the awnings to the laid timber.

However, often an apartment is purchased with renovations already completed, and the new owners may receive an unpleasant gift from the old owners in the form of plasterboard walls, which they were not even warned about. People are faced with a dilemma: to make new renovations in the room or to abandon wall cabinets forever. In this situation, you can do without radical measures.

Stand made of two profiles

The simplest method of strengthening a plasterboard partition is to make a frame from reinforced rack profiles, but very often this cannot be used due to the fact that the structure will be too bulky and massive, and the apartment may not be very large in any case. The use of a reinforced profile, the width of which is 100 mm, will increase the gap between the real wall and the false wall or, if it is a partition, significantly increase its thickness. This will affect the area of the room. Therefore, in small rooms and apartments it would be advisable to use another method - creating a rack from two profiles. Two profiles will withstand a greater load than one. They are connected to each other with self-tapping screws, the distance between the screws is 150-200 mm.

This method is not very common, since the profile is not intended for such work, and the design is not so practical, but it is quite suitable as one of the options.

Which mounts to choose: tips

To hang a cabinet on a plasterboard wall, choose the following fasteners:

Plastic dowels - “butterfly”. Withstands a load of 24 kg. Light objects such as shelves, small paintings, small cabinets are hung on it.
Metal adjustable dowel “Molly”. The principle of operation of the fastener is the same as that of the “butterfly”. It can withstand a load of 35 kg.
Metal anchor. This fastener is used for hanging heavy chandeliers and heavy objects. It can withstand loads of up to 50 kg. Therefore, hanging a cabinet on it will not be difficult.
Dowel Driva. Made from plastic (hanging 25 kg) and metal (holding 30 kg).
"Harmut Knauf" - this mount can withstand 55 kg. At the same time, the plasterboard surface will remain the same flat.

Choosing fasteners for hanging a cabinet is a responsible matter. Not only the weight of the furniture is important here, you need to consider what will be put in it, and what the weight will be if the cabinet is full.

Before hanging the cabinet on the gypsum plasterboard surface, it is necessary to make precise horizontal markings. The weight of the filled furniture should be taken into account. The use of mortgages is the best option. If rearranging or updating furniture is done after repairs, then you need to select fasteners taking into account their withstand load.

Wooden beam inside the profile

Another way is to place a wooden beam inside a metal profile. They are also secured with self-tapping screws every 200 mm. But first, make sure that the internal width of the profile and the bar match each other, and you want the bar to be slightly narrower. Watch for changes in the shape of the support - it should not deform or bend - this is necessary for the precise fit of the beam to the horizontal supports.

These two options are the results of improvisation by builders of past years, which have proven themselves well, but they are most often used only for constructing a frame around the doorway. To strengthen walls, proven methods are still recommended.

Method 3. Plastic and metal wrap-around dowels

This is the fastest option for hanging a cabinet from a plasterboard wall. The downside is a significant limitation on the maximum load. The video below demonstrates what load different types of dowels can withstand:

For fastening, special roll-up dowels for DRIVA plasterboards are used. They come in metal and plastic, with or without a drilling tip, and have large external threads and a cross slot for screwing into drywall with a screwdriver. In contrast to previous methods, these fasteners should not get into the metal frame profiles.

DRIVA is simply screwed into the plasterboard sheet in the right place, its end is flush with the plane of the wall. The force when screwing should be controlled so that the dowel does not “fall” through the gypsum board. To fasten hanging furniture, self-tapping screws or self-tapping screws are screwed into DRIVA.

Advice! To avoid distortions when screwing in dowels, you can pre-drill the gypsum board with a regular drill of a smaller diameter.

The declared maximum load on DRIVA fasteners is 25 kg. At the same time, we should not forget about the additional dynamic loads that arise during operation. Craftsmen recommend using DRIVA for attaching small cabinets, shelves, plasma panels and paintings to drywall.

Another innovative solution is the use of the Fischer DuoTec self-aligning dowel. The principle of its operation and installation technique can be seen in the video:

Ready-made reinforced profiles

The maximum load that a profile can withstand depends on two factors: the width of the profile and the thickness of the metal. The greater the width, the stronger the profile will be. Therefore, to strengthen a plasterboard wall, you can purchase a reinforced profile specially designed for this purpose. It is wider and made of thicker metal. There are three types of profiles:

Width 50 mm. Universal, used everywhere for the construction of frames for drywall

Width 75 mm. This is the profile most often used to strengthen the frame.

Width 100 mm. A very durable and massive profile, which is used if you need to seriously strengthen the wall for heavy loads, it is used quite rarely

Another important characteristic is the thickness of the metal from which the profile is made. It can be different, it is better to use one with a thickness of 0.55 mm, ideally if you can find one with a thickness of 0.6 mm. This will provide the necessary strength, even if the frame is sheathed with only one layer of plasterboard sheets.

It is best to use a profile with a width of 75 millimeters. The structure will not look so huge, and the strength will be quite good. The 100 mm profile is used only where the loads are really large, but then the partitions will be very large. But behind them you can hide any engineering communications, not to mention electrical wiring.

You need to remember or mark exactly where the reinforcing element is located, so that you can then hang a shelf, cabinet or heater there.

Mounting rail

If you don’t want to spoil the appearance of the wall, then the mounting issue can be solved using a mounting rail. Of course, such a wall will not withstand a heavy load, but it will be possible to attach small cabinets or shelves.

This method is mainly suitable for walls with plasterboard frame fastening. You need to take the butterfly dowels and secure the mounting rail with them. In places where the profile is located, it is necessary to use self-tapping screws. The distance between fastening elements should not exceed 10–15 cm.